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JOURNAL 


OF  A 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE, 


MADE  BETWEEN  THE  MONTHS  OF 


NOVEMBEH,  1848,  AND  APEIL,  1849. 


BY  AN  AMERICAN. 


BUFFALO: 

PUBLISHED  BY  PHINNEY  & CO. 


1851. 


Entered,  accorcling  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1849,  by 
G.  P.  PUTNAM, 

in  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 
of  New- York. 


PTIBLISHEES’  ADVEETISMENT. 


This  graphic  account  of  incidents  and  researches,  on  a voyage  in 
1848  and  ’49  was  furnished  for  publication  at  the  request  of  Eev. 
Francis  L.  Hawks,  L.  L.  D.,  as  an  appropriate  companion  to  his 
“ Egypt  and  its  Monuments,”  and  was  introduced  by  him  as  the  con- 
tribution of  an  intelligent  and  educated  American,  to  the  researches 
in  Egyptian  antiquities.  The  following  are  brief  extracts  from  the 
Notices  of  several  Editors  who  have  examined  it. 

“ A work  of  extreme  interest,  freshly  and  ably  written.” — Albion,  JV.  Y. 

“It  will  be  heartily  enjoyed  by  many  readers.” — Washington  In- 
telligencer. 

“Racy  and  picturesque — full  of  graphic  and  historic  incident.” — 
St.  Louis  Intelligencer. 


His  wandering  step, 

Obedient  to  high  thoughts,  has  visited 
The  awful  ruins  of  the  days  of  old: 

Athens,  and  Tyre,  and  Balbec,  and  the  waste 
Where  stood  Jerusalem,  the  fallen  towers 
Of  Babylon,  the  eternal  pp’amids, 

Memphis  and  Thebes,  and  whatsoe’er  of  strange 
Sculptured  on  alabaster  obelisk. 

Or  jasper  tomb,  or  mutilated  sphinx. 

Dark  Ethiopia  on  her  desert  hills 
Conceals.  Among  the  ruined  temples  there, 

Stupendous  columns,  and  wild  images 

Of  more  than  man,  where  marble  demons  watch 

The  Zodiac’s  brazen  mystery,  and  dead  men 

Hang  their  mute  thoughts  on  the  mute  walls  around. 

He  lingered,  poring  on  memorials 

Of  the  world’s  youth,  through  the  long  burning  day 

Gazed  on  those  speechless  shapes,  nor,  when  the  moon 

Filled  the  mysterious  halls  with  floating  shades 

Suspended  he  that  task,  but  ever  gazed 

And  gazed,  till  meaning  on  his  vacant  mind 

Flashed  like  strong  inspiration,  and  he  saw 

The  thrilling  secrets  of  the  birth  of  time. 

Shelley — Alasior^  or  the  Spirit  of  Solitude. 


STEAMER  TO  EGYPT  FROM  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


Never  was  morning  more  beautiful  than  that  in  which  we 
prepared  to  leave  the  harbor  of  the  Golden  Horn,  at  Constan- 
tinople. The  thousand  varied  and  beautiful  views  on  all 
sides,  from  the  “valley  of  sweet  waters,”  and  the  mosque- 
crowned  heights  of  Eyaub,  to  Galata’s  tower  and  the  gardens 
of  the  Seraglio,  left  a series  of  pictures  impressed  on  the 
memory  which  will  long  be  a source  of  pleasure. 

The  Turkish  passengers  crowd  on  board,  and  the  cabins 
are  filled  with  the  wives  of  the  Grand  Pacha,  Fuchtar  Effendi, 
of  two  tails,  whom  the  Sultan  has  recently  appointed  Governor 
of  Mecca.  Finally,  his  Pacha  friends  crowd  around  in  their 
boats  to  wish  him  adieu.  With  them  are  some  European 
envoys,  among  whom  is  a Russian.  What  a group  on  this 
steamer’s  deck  ! The  Pacha  and  his  two  attendants  ; gentle- 
men, with  about  forty  servants  ; cawasses,  eunuchs,  <fec. ; 
Kurds,  Tartars,  with  their  shawled  caps,  Persians,  Copts, 
Greeks,  Armenians,  Jews — in  fact,  all  the  specimens  of  Mo- 
hammedanism to  be  found  in  the  Turkish  Empire  ; and,  save 
the  engineer  (an  Englishman)  I am  the  only  Anglo-Saxon. 

The  Pacha’s  young  and  favorite  wife,  I have  once  seen 
distinctly.  She  is  very  beautiful.  He  is  a man  of  noble 
presence,  with  the  brow  and  features  of  a statesman  and  a 


6 


STEAMER  TO  EGYPT  FROM  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


great  man.  Nobler  never  could  have  belonged  to  the  Prophet 
himself.  Some  of  the  Pachas  who  rushed  to  bid  him  farewell 
bent  to  kiss  his  feet.  Hark  ! the  gun.  The  Sultan  is  in  that 
steamboat,  returning  from  the  launch  of  a vessel  of  war.  All 
along  np  the  Bosphorus  the  ships  of  war  are  manned  to  their 
topmast  yards,  and  the  flags  flying.  I had  recently  witnessed 
a still  more  magnificent  scene,  where  the  Sultan  embarked  at 
his  palace  on  the  Bosphorus  to  go  to  mosque. 

Hark  ! there  is  another  gun.  It  is  sunset,  and  the  Moslems 
have  all  washed,  and  are  kneeling  in  prayer,  with  their  faces, 
as  ever,  turned  toward  Mecca.  What  religionists  in  the 
world  observe  the  duties  of  their  faith  more  praiseworthily 
than  these  ? The  old  Pacha,  too,  so  devout ! Pie  prays  as 
if  it  were  praying  that  had  given  that  noble  dignity  to  his 
face. 

It  is  over,  and  now  we  are  under  way.  Farewell  to 
Pera,  and  all  its  varied  and  picturesque  population,  roman- 
tic environs  and  its  Armenian  girls.  Farewell  to  Galata,  and 
its  miserable  streets  of  Greek  fishermen,  where  I have  so  often 
lost  my  way  amidst  the  throng  of  traders  from  every  clime  ; 
where  the  cannie  Scotchman  from  Greenock  strikes  bargains 
with  the  Persian  of  the  Caucasus.  P^arewell  to  the  beautiful 
Bosphorus  and  the  distant  Symplegades,  whose  blue  forms 
it  must  suffice  to  see  afar  off,  without  running  Jason’s  risk. 
P^arewell  to  the  gorgeous  Sultan’s  palace  ; Bebek  and  its  lovely 
bay,  the  castle  of  Venetian  splendor  ; Tiierapia,  and  its  Greek 
maidens  ; Buyukdere,  and  its  beauties  ; and  the  Asiatic  shore  ! 
the  ‘Csweet  waters,”  the  beautiful  valley,  and  the  Sultan’s 
lovely,  dark-eyed  Circassians  ! Farewell  to  Scutari,  and  the 
old  cypresses  of  the  cemeteries,  and  Stamboul,  that  strange 
compound,  so  grand  at  a distance,  so  filthy  within.  In  its  old 


7 


STEAMER  TO  EGYPT  FROM  CONSTAI^TiKOPLE. 


! 

! 

Seraglio,  I W^^duld  fain  yet  linger  amid  the  crumbling  capitals 
i built  by  the  Greek  Emperors,  and  the  chambers  filled  with  the 
Caliph’s  works  ; the  libraries  of  rare  books,  the  portraits  of  the 
Sultans — every  one  of  whom  rose  by  the  murder  of  some 
father  or  brother ; the  beds  glittering  Avith  gems  in  the  dark 
old  Saracenic  chambers,  Avhere  many  a Sultan  has.  been 
strangled  ; the  halls,  where  the  tyrant  would  only  show  him- 
self through  a steel  grating.  Farewell  to  all  these : we  are 
now  for  the  land  of  Egypt  to  study  its  lore,  as  did  the  Grecian 
scholars  of  old,  when  they  left  the  cool  shades  of  the  Academy 
for  the  priestly  colleges  of  Sais  and  Heliopolis.  Will  it  make 
us  Christian,  like  Alciphron,  or  unbelieving,  like  the  infidels 
of  France  ? 


VOYAGE  TIP  THE  NILE. 


The  Nile  has  become  nearly  as  much  travelled  by  Americans 
as  the  Rhine ; it  requires  but  a moderate  income  to  jump  to 
Athens,  Cairo,  Jerusalem  ; many  an  American  flag  meets  the 
traveller  beneath  Luxor’s  old  temple ; hundreds  of  New-York 
and  Boston  names,  and  those  of  every  city  in  our  States,  greet 
his  eye  in  the  tombs  of  the  Remeses,  and  throughout  the  mighty 
wrecks  of  Thebes.  Several  go  to  the  Nile  as  they  go  up  the 
Clyde  or  Hudson,  to  see  a change  of  manner,  primitive  enjoy- 
ments, and  to  enjoy  a dry,  pure  air,  and  the  sweetest  of  water. 
And  yet,  notwithstanding  burlesque  travels,  and  “ Punch  on 
the  Pyramids,”  there  are  those  to  be  found,  who  still  regard 
Egypt  with  the  mysterious  awe  of  their  earlier  days,  and  in 
her  monuments  And  the  most  material  evidence  in  existence 
of  the  truth  of  divine  revelation  ; — who  turn  from  the  unsatis- 
factory juggleries  and  traditions  of  the  Holy  Land,  to  the  chisel- 
led and  painted  memorials  of  the  Pharaohs’  artists,  which  give 
us  now  the  authentic  records  of  early  Egyptian  dynasties,  in 
almost  the  same  condition  as  when  Diodorus  saw  them  two 
thousand  years  ago. 

By  one  of  those  extraordinary  artifices  which  creates  ex- 
citement by  manufacturing  opinion,  it  has  been  fashionable 
with  a certain  class  to  slight  the  continued,  palpable  evidence 
deduced  from  the  monuments  and  deciphered  language  of 


10 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Egypt  in  favor  of  Scripture,  until  the  great  science  of  “ Egyp- 
tology” has  been  made — in  the  hands  of  ingenious  philologists, 
accomplished  German  infidels,  crafty  French  sophists,  decay- 
ed Italian  scholars,  and  popular  appealers  to  the  spirit  of  infi- 
delity, which  always  is  alive — to  attack  the  received  opinions 
of  the  Christian  church  upon  Scripture  history  and  chrono- 
logy. 

I have  been  to  Egypt,  partly  to  gratify  the  confirmation 
of  a faith  instilled  in  childhood,  and  inculcated  by  teachings  of 
accomplished  scholars.  ‘ Accident  threw  in  my  way,  in  a tour 
in  Italy  three  years  since,  works  upon  the  records  of  Egypt  and 
theology,  which,  by  the  skilful  management  of  the  hierogly- 
phical  records,  had  the  effect  to  darken  for  a time  my  Chris- 
tian faith,  and  to  suggest  doubts  and  conjectures  rather  than 
confidence  in  the  Scripture  records. 

Perhaps  a future  volume  'may  give  me  the  opportunity  of 
showing  more  fully  than  can  be  done  here,  what  is  the  true 
character  of  those  works  ; and,  I may  also  relate  my  own  convic- 
tions after  a pretty  thorough  examination  of  the  whole  subject. 

Before  undertaking  this  visit  to  Egypt,  I had  enjoyed  the 
advantage  of  consulting  the  most  important  works  relating  to 
that  country,  in  the  principal  public  libraries  of  Europe — in- 
cluding the  British  Museum,  and  the  Royal  libraries  at  Paris, 
Vienna,  and  Berlin ; and  I had  studied  the  Egyptian  remains 
in  the  chief  Museums.  The  privilege  of  some  acquaintance 
with  several  of  the  learned  archaeologists  and  oriental  scho- 
lars of  Europe,  had  been  of  essential  service  in  enabling  me 
to  prepare  for  this  voyage.  Unambitious  of  fame,  I had  nothing 
to  lose  ; nothing  to  gain  but  truth. 

In  the  works,  the  names  of  which  the  lectures  of  Gliddon 
have  brought  to  notice  in  America,  there  was  much  to  ques- 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


11 


tion.  The  “ monumenti  ” of  Rosellini  and  Champollion  are  fill- 
ed with  evidences  of  Scripture  fulfilment  and  Scriptural  illus- 
tration. The  philologists  of  Germany  and  Paris  have  found 
their  own  refutation  in  the  pages  of  the  Berlin  theologists. 
Some  are  too  absurd,  too  malicious  against  Scripture,  to  be 
noticed,  and  are  disavowed  by  moderate  archaeologists  like 
Bunsen,  who  are  by  no  means  to  he  praised  for  their  ortho- 
doxy : and  their  sophistry,  like  that  of  Fourier  and  the  French 
infidels  on  the  Zodiacs  of  Dendera  and  Esne,  so  fully  exposed 
in  the  work  of  Champollion — “ Fourier  and  Napoleon” — soon 
satisfied  me  that  their  objections  were  null,  and  their  study 
loss  of  time ; philological  ingenuities,  ethnological  resem- 
blances were  all  their  objections  were  founded  on. 

The  volumes  of  Osborn,  Hengstenberg,  and  Wilkinson 
furnish  much  that  is  conclusive  in  confirmation  of  the  Bible ; 
and  after  a careful  study  of  these  introductory  works,  perhaps 
no  candid  man  would  need  further  evidence,  that  the  Egyp- 
tian monuments  do  really  illustrate  and  verify  the  Scriptures. 
These  books,  with  the  great  French  and  Italian  works  on  the 
hieroglyphics,  and  the  Egyptian  grammar  and  dictionary,  will 
enable  me  to  commence  the  profitable  study  of  the  monuments 
themselves. 

The  eminent  scholar  Letronne,  of  Paris,  although  too 
Jesuitical  and  conservative,  in  an  age  when  looseness  and 
license  of  opinion  was  prevailing  around  him,  has  grouped 
much  that  is  valuable  of  the  evidence,  from  the  Egyptian 
monuments,  in  favor  of  Scripture  truth.  His  death,  lamented 
by  all  the  archaeologists  of  Europe,  free-thinking  as  well  as 
orthodox,  has  deprived  the  world  of  much  that  is  rare  as  well 
as  definite  upon  the  subject.  Part  of  this,  and  a summary  of 
the  materials  that  I have  collected,  will  be  given  to  the  world 


12 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


in  a future  and  more  elaborate  work.  When,  upon  a subject 
so  vast,  a scholar  like  Letronne  hesitates  to  group  his  evidence 
until  he  can  put  upon  it  the  stamp  of  incontrovertibility  and 
completeness,  it  may  seem  presumptuous  in  a novice  not  to 
hesitate  also.  The  object  of  the  present  pages,  however,  is 
more  introductory  than  full ; a mere  journal  of  objects  as  they 
presented  themselves. 

The  purpose  of  the  author  in  going  to  the  Nile  being  fully 
understood,  he  will  describe  his  voyage  and  visit  to  those 
interesting  places,  in  which  difficulty,  of  necessity,  made  his 
voyage  adventurous,  threw  him  upon  all  his  fancy  for  interest, 
and  made  him  catch  enthusiasm  from  the  high  religious  satis- 
faction, poetry  from  the  genius  of  the  place,  and  constant 
excitement  from  the  noble  antiquities  of  the  “ times  when  the 
world  was  young.” 

The  Rhine,  Switzerland,  the  Italian  lakes,  the  Tyrol, 
French,  German,  Hungarian  revolutions,  added  interest  to  his 
journey  to  the  ancient  land.  He  paused  in  Greece,  gazed  on 
Parnassus  and  the  Parthenon,  and  galloped  over  Attica.  He 
looked  upon  the  Areopagus,  for  it  was  the  Mars  Hill  from 
which  Paul  preached  of  the  temples  in  which  dwelt  the  Living 
God ; upon  Mount  Ida  and  the  Troad ; upon  the  citadel  at 
Smyrna — that  one  ruin  of  the  seven  churches  of  God,  and 
where  Polycarp  poured  out  his  blood  for  Christ ; upon  ancient 
Byzantium’s  wall,  and  modern  Constantinople’s  beauties ; fol- 
lowed the  Bosphorus  to  the  Symplegades ; roamed  with  a 
solitary  Greek  boatman  through  the  isles  of  the  ^Egean  ; gazed 
upon  the  isle  where  St.  John  wrote  the  awful  Revelation ; 
breathed  the  mild  air  of  Rhodes,  and  followed  art  and  nature 
with  a dreamer’s  eye.  But  what  was  Lake  Leman  to  the 
Lake  Mareotis  ? what  were  all  the  rivers  in  the  world  when 
me  sees  the  glorious  Nile  ? 


ATFEH. 


13 


Arriving  at  Alexandria  by  the  Turkish  steamer,  I was 
impatient  to  rush  over  the  canal,  and  without  waiting  for  a 
steamboat,  I jumped  into  one  of  the  most  ordinary  of  the 
carrying  boats,  and  arrived  in  two  days  at  Atfeh ; an  Arab 
boy,  who  knew  a little  Italian,  was  my  companion.  What  a 
delight  to  behold  that  broad  glorious  river ; its  rushing  waters, 
its  noble  palm  groves  ; the  Libyan  and  Arabian  mountains ; 
the  strange  life  in  the  Arab  towns,  and  all  the  varied  novelties 
of  oriental  life  and  scenery  ! 


It  was  in  the  latter  part  of  November,  1848,  that,  at  Atfeh, 
I procured  a traveller’s  boat  of  the  agent  of  the  Oriental 
Company,  and  began  my  voyage  up  the  Nile.  The  rich  loam 
of  its  banks  told  stories  of  its  deposits,  as  the  soundings  in 
Alexandria’s  harbor  did  to  Herodotus ; and  proofs  of  the  ex- 
haustions of  Nubia’s  soil  gave  increased  certainty  to  the  cor- 
rectness of  Scriptural  chronology.  Geologists  have  ascertained 
for  us  some  facts,  but  the  claim  of  ten  thousand  years  for  the 
world’s  history  of  man  finds,  apparently,  but  doubtful  support 
from  the  Delta  of  the  Nile.  Deltas  have  yet  to  tell  their  tale, 
and  Biblical  Geology  is  yet  to  be  written. 

I had  some  knowledge  of  the  vulgar  Arabic,  which  I had 
studied  with  the  oriental  advantages  of  Paris  and  Vienna,  and 
in  Marcel’s  Dictionnaire  of  the  vulgar  Arabic.  The  Arabic 
rudiments  which  I had  acquired  from  Causin  de  Percival  and 
De  Sacy  enabled  me  to  trafiic  for  my  provisions,  and  order 
my  dinner  with  ease ; which,  as  I had  no  dragoman,  was  a 
matter  of  convenience.  At  the  end  of  a short  time  I had 


14 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


learned  something  of  Nile  boatmen  and  Egyptian  life,  had 
been  satiated  with  the  songs,  “La  Allah,  V Allah  y’  lilla,” 
could  understand  some  of  their  stories  of  Antar  and  Hybla, 
learned  to  admire  their  deep  earnestness ; and,  on  the  whole, 
to  think  favorably  of  the  Egyptian  Arabs.  The  song  for 
“Hawaga”  [the  traveller]  when  he  sits  down  to  table,  the 
sleeping  song,  the  watchfire  on  the  bank  when  the  boat  pulls 
to  the  shore,  the  wild  dance  and  the  sakia,  or  rude  drum, 
the  perfect  time  of  their  tunes  and  chorus  — all  these  were 
novelties. 

It  was  the  liveliest  of  Cairo  donkeys,  and  the  ugliest  and 
smartest  of  donkey  boys,  that  took  me  into  Cairo.  These 
donkey  boys,'  like  the  Gamins  of  Paris  and  the  newspaper 
boys,  will  tell  you  every  thing.  They  enliven  your  rides  to  the 
site  of  Heliopolis,  to  the  fountain  and  tree  of  the  Holy  Family 
at  Mataryeh,  to  the  Citadel  of  Saracenic  and  Mohammedan 
Egypt,  telling  on  its  ruined  walls  tales  of  Pharaoh  Hophra,* 
Saladin,  and  Mohammed  Ali.  One  must  not  pass  over  the 
new  mosque  at  Cairo.  Its  interior  architecture  is  of  the  finest 
Saracenic,  and  when  completed,  its  exterior  will  be  quite  as 
imposing  as  that  of  our  Capitol  at  Washington. 

It  was  pleasant  to  amble  through  the  groves  of  palm  and 
acacia  that  abound  in  the  rich,  wild  country  north  of  Cairo, 
to  that  rare  palace  of  orientalism  at  Shoubra  of  Mohammed 
Ali,  whose  gardens  and  kiosks  and  mosaics,  are  only  rivalled 
by  those  of  Granada.  In  these  rides,  I frequently  met  Mo- 
hammed Ali  in  his  carriage,  like  a plain  English  gentleman, 
and  he  always  saluted  me  with  the  uniform  politeness  that  he 
has  ever  displayed  towards  Anglo-Saxons.  He  had  recently 
lost  his  eldest  son,  the  celebrated  Ibrahim  Pacha.  We  heard 


* riis‘ cartouche  is  in  the  wall. 


CAIRO. 


15 


of  his  death  at  Rhodes  and  all  the  Arabs  to  whom  I had 
spoken  of  it,  only  replied  with  the  flashing  glance  of  pleasure, 
“ Allah  Akbar,”  God  is  great.  The  Turks  uniformly  seemed 
pleased  at  the  accession  of  a pious,  bigoted  Mussulman  like 
Abbas,  as  the  Arabs  were  glad  to  be  rid  of  the  tyranny  of 
Ibrahim.  Abbas  was  on  his  way  to  Mecca.  Mohammed  Ali 
merely  replied,  on  hearing  of  the  death  of  Ibrahim,  that  it 
was  sad  a father  should  live  to  see  the  day  that  he  could  not 
1 egret  the  death  of  his  own  son.  Nearly  four  months  after 
this,  Abbas  Pacha  returned  from  Constantinople,  where  he 
had  been  to  visit  the  Sultan,  on  receiving  the  hatti  scheriff 
investing  him  with  the  Pachalik ; which  was  read  soon  after 
his  accession,  in  the  citadel. 

On  his  visit  to  the  Sultan,  his  Mussulman  character 
gained  him  the  title  of  Vizier  (or  Mushir,  the  highest,  next 
the  Sultan)  and  Pacha  of  Nubia  ; and  his  return,  in  February, 
was  celebrated  by  illuminations  throughout  Cairo  for  three 
days.  The  English  policy  was  much  gratified  by  this,  as 
they  wished  to  reduce  Egypt  to  a mere  province,  to  weaken 
French  influence  there ; and  thus  it  has  lost  the  progressive 
independence  of  government  that  Mohammed  Ali  had  given  it. 
The  English  consul-general,  Hon.  Charles  Augustus  Murray, 
has  availed  himself  of  the  weakness  of  Abbas  Pacha’s  habits 
and  government,  to  gain  free  passage  for  armed  English  troops 
to  India,  and  many  other  important  advantages ; while  the 
Egyptian  fleet  transferred  to  the  Sultan,  and  the  strong  mea- 
sures of  Admiral  Parker  against  the  aggression  of  Russia 
in  the  prohibited  Bosphorus,  has  aided  England’s  design  of 
increasing  the  power  of  the  Porte,  and  augmented,  also,  her 
own  influence  in  Egypt.  Whether  the  establishment  of  our 
own  lately  appointed  consul-general  there,  Mr.  Macauley,  who, 


16 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 

from  his  long  residence  in  Barbary,  is  fully  acquainted  with 
Turkish  manners,  language,  and  diplomacy,  may  lessen  the 
encroachments  of  English  influence,  is  a matter  that  belongs 
alone  to  diplomatists.  Soon  after  his  arrival  there,  in  the 
United  States  frigate  “ Constitution,”  the  assault  of  one  of  the 
Arab  soldiers  on  the  person  of  a passed  midshipman,  who 
commanded  one  of  the  boats’  crews  of  men  ashore,  called  for 
Mr.  Macauley’s  interference,  and  he  was  prompt  enough  to 
treat  the  dissimulating  procrastination  of  the  government  rela- 
tive to  the  punishment  of  the  soldier,  with  the  threat  that  he 
would  haul  down  his  consular  flag,  if  an  answer  were  not 
given  by  sunrise.  Such  decision,  and  his  course  with  the 
Bashaw  of  Tripoli,  will  doubtless  make  his  representation  of 
our  country  valuable. 

I rode  to  Ghizeh,  and  over  the  plain  to  the  pyramids. 
Dragged  to  the  summit,  like  thousands  of  others,  I stood  on 
Cheops’  pyramid,  where  Diodorus  had  once  stood.  I could 
not  find  the  name  of  Herodotus ; but  that  of  my  hotel-keeper 
was  boldly  chiselled,  and  so  was  “ Day  and  Martin’s  black- 
ing.” An  Arab  offered  to  go  up  the  Cephrenes  pyramid  for  a 
shilling,  then  for  a sixpence.  I was  awed  before  the  Sphinx  ; 
for,  mutilated  as  it  is,  there  is  something  in  that  expression 
alike  Caucasian  and  great.  I read  the  records  of  the  fourth 
dynasty  in  the  chambers  ; and  found  Scripture  proofs  clear  in 
the  records  of  the  tombs  on  the  Libyan  chain,  stretching 
through  the  whole  Necropolis  to  the  Saccara  and  Dashoor 
pyramids,  with  its  cut  mummy-pits.  All  this,  is  it  not  written 
fully  in  the  three  huge  volumes  of  Colonel  Vyse  ? 

And  Memphis — that  desolate  plain ! One  can  find  interest 
here,  although  the  temple  of  Vulcan,  the  site  of  which  is 
spoken  of  by  antiquarians  as  the  square  where,  according  to 


MEMPHIS. 


17 


Herodotus,  the  bull  Apis  was  kept,  is  gone.  But  the  great 
object  of  interest  is  the  Acherusian  lake,  which  gave  to 
the  Grecians  and  Romans  the  mythology  which  the  latter 
cherished  in  Campania.  Over  this,  in  the  sacred  boats,  so 
they  fabled,  the  souls  of  the  dead  heroes  were  carried.  The 
dark  groves  upon  its  banks,  the  jutting  points,  and  the  setting 
sun  over  the  shades,  made  it  peculiarly  picturesque.  I had 
been  over  the  scene  of  the  mythologies  of  the  ^neid  from  the 
grotto  of  the  Sibyl  to  the  Lake  Avernus  and  Elysian  Fields, 
and  had  e:^lored  Greece.  How  pleasant  to  trace  here  the 
source  of  these  superstitions  ! 

As  for  the  statue  of  Remeses  the  Great,  and  his  son  and 
daughter,  I have  seen  the  copy  in  the  British  Museum,  and 
it  is  far  more  impressive  than  the  original  here  lying  in  the 
mud. 

The  site  of  Memphis  has  received  its  best  consideration  in 
the  pages  of  Mr.  St.  John,  Dr.  Richardson,  Conder,  and  Shaw 
— and  the  confusion  on  the  subject  is  well  accounted  for 
by  Gibbon,  on  the  supposition  that  it  extended  numbers  of 
miles.  But  how  unsatisfactory  the  exploration  from  Ghizeh 
to  Mitraheny  ! The  fallen  colossal  statue  alone,  which  is  so 
perfectly  revived  in  the  cast  in  the  British  Museum,  is  all. 
And  yet  how  much  is  here  ! Was  it  not  the  first  founded 
city  by  the  immediate  descendants  of  Noah  ? That  it  was 
the  oldest,  the  decay  of  its  monuments  attest,  while  Thebes 
remains.  Allowing  even  the  superiority  of  the  climate  of  the 
Said  for  the  preservation  of  temples  and  sculptures,  how 
could  the  granite  of  Syene  have  disappeared  so  entirely  were 
it  not  a ruined  city,  after  the  decay  of  the  latter  Pharaonic 
dynasty  ? How  full  of  deep  interest  is  this  spot ! The  scene 
of  the  Mosaico-Egyptian  history,  the  site  of  a city  that,  from 


B 


18 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


the  rule  of  Menes  over  this  locality  to  that  of  Abbas  Pacha, 
has  seen  a greater  number  of  successions,  preserved  a greater 
permanence  of  locality  for  civilization,  than  any  spot  in  the 
world.  Rome  and  Athens  are  but  of  yesterda^^  in  comparison 
with  Memphis.  When  I stood  on  the  tomb  of  Cecrops  in  the 
Acropolis,  I was  awed  by  the  antiquity  of  the  pioneer  of  Egyp- 
tian emigration  to  Greece  ; it  was  from  Memphis  that  he  went 
forth.  Jerusalem  was  founded  earlier  still.  Babylon,  its  nearer 
contemporary,  is  a howling  desert : and  Nineveh  furnishes  few 
wrecks  of  Assyrian  sway ; but  old  Memphis  is  here.  Stand- 
ing on  the  roof  of  your  sojourning  house  in  the  place, 
Esbekiah,  you  may  turn  from  glittering  Turkish- Arab- Jewish- 
Coptic-Cairo  of  to-day,  to  the  Citadel,  and  bring  up  the 
Mameluke-Turcoman-Saracen-Caliph-governing-Cairo  of  yes- 
terday ; live  over  the  histories  of  Masr-el-Atikeh  and  Masr-el- 
Kebyr, — new  Cairo  and  old  Cairo ; — turn  to  the  tombs  of  the 
Caliphs,  and  the  thousand  mosques  and  monuments  of  that 
era ; and  then  to  the  Coptic  churches,  and  the  memorials  of 
Christian  patriarchal  sway  in  the  distance ; and  then  a little 
north  your  eyes  wander  upon  Rhoda  island  and  the  shores, 
whose  musical  palaces  of  Beys  are  the  sites  of  the  palaces  of 
the  Pharaohs  of  Jewish  memory ; and  then  wandering  to  the 
pyramids,  the  sphinxes,  the  caves,  and  tombs  on  the  Libyan 
mountain  ridge,  with  names  of  kings  and  records  of  Egypt  to 
her  fourth  dynasty ; and  a little  further  rest  on  the  plains  and 
mounds,  which  need  yet  the  labors  of  a Belzoni  or  a Vyse — 
where  Menes  and  Misraim  subjects  gained  the  first  wealth  of 
this  fertile  valley  of  the  generous  Nile. 

Many  flatter  themselves  that  Egypt  is  yet  to  be  more  fully 
unveiled,  that  there  are  evidences  in  the  mounds  and  passages 
under  Memphis  which  will  bring  to  light  more  truth.  There 


EGYPTIAN  ASSOCIATION.  io 

were  those  too  who  believed  that  deep  under  yon  pyramid  of 
Ghizeh  lay  concealed  the  table  of  emerald  on  which  the  thrice 
great  Hermes  engraved  the  secret  of  alchemy,  which  was 
lost  before  the  flood ; and  that  Egypt,  through  the  whole 
valley  of  the  Nile,  was  traversed  by  a subterranean  realm, 
which  kings  who  had  that  art  which  gave  gold  at  will,  used 
for  their  purposes. 

Devoting  a little  time  to  investigations  of  the  Pelusiac 
branch  of  the  Nile,  at  Heliopolis  ; arriving  at  the  conclusions 
of  Hengstenberg ; and  glancing  at  the  subject  of  Pithom,  the 
Patumos  of  Herodotus,  which  I did  without  visiting  the  in- 
teresting site  of  Sais,  where  Herodotus  and  Plato  found  so 
much,  or  the  modern  towns  of  Mansoura,  the  rice  granaries 
of  Damietta,  and  rich  fertility  of  the  Delta,  with  its  peculiar 
Levantine  characteristics,  from  Rosetta  to  Damietta ; and 
having  spent  some  investigation  on  the  fine  papyri  of  Dr.  Ab- 
bot’s museum  and  literary  association,  where  I enjoyed  the 
advantage  of  acquaintance  with  one  of  the  best  Coptic  scholars 
living ; and  having  gained  much  aid  from  the  library  of  the 
Egyptian  Association,  (which,  by  the  beneficence  of  English 
noblemen,  has  become  a mine  of  treasure,  under  the  super- 
intendence of  Dr.  Lieder,  containing  all  published  on  the 
subject,  as  well  as  all  European  facilities,)  I engaged  my  boat, 
made  a contract,  employed  a dragoman,  and  prepared  for  my 
voyage  to  the  temples  of  the  Nile.  My  boat  was  small,  its 
cabin  only  sufficient  for  one : but  being  recommended  for 
speed  by  an  English  gentleman,  who  had  just  returned  from 
the  first  cataract  in  it,  I was  well  satisfied. 

Coming  down  from  a visit  to  the  citadel,  I was  told  a fine 
lion  from  Dongola  was  shown  here,  belonging  to  Mohammed 
Ali,  and  I stopped  to  take  a look  at  his  majesty.  We  went 


20 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


up  a few  steps,  aixd  entered  a room,  where  stood  chained,  with 
his  bushy  mane,  an  enormous  red  lion.  There  was  no  grate, 
as  at  the  Surrey  or  Regent  Park  gardens,  to  impede  our  view, 
and  I did  not  feel  particularly  pleasant  to  be  in  the  same  room 
with  a lion  just  fresh  from  the  deserts  of  Dongola,  with  only 
a few  iron  links  to  prevent  him  from  making  his  breakfast  of 
his  visitors ; but  imagine  my  terror  when  the  keeper,  after 
having  displayed  some  feats  of  animal  taming  that  far  excelled 
VaaAmburgh,  left  him,  and  while  I was  gazing  into  his  eyes, 
he  rose  and  made  a leap,  snapping  one  end  of  his  chain.  I 
was  near  the  door,  and  in  an  instant  I was  out,  and  the  keeper 
against  the  door,  which  his  attendants  without  secured,  while 
he  was  standing  up  and  pointing  to  the  corner  for  the  lion  to 
go  back  to  his  chain.  I was  fairly  frightened,  and  rushed 
down  the  steps  leading  into  the  street,  glad  enough  to  escape. 

I went  from  here  to  see  the  bastinado.  I found  there  an 
imperturbable  Englishman  from  our  hotel,  who  was  always 
there,  I believe.  He  had  invited  me  frequently  to  go  up  with 
him  and  see  one,  as,  he  said,  it  gave  him  an  appetite  for  his 
dinner.  For  my  part,  it  was  disgusting  to  me.  The  kourbash 
is  very  painful  for  the  first  two  or  three  blows,  but  after, 
it  is  scarcely  felt,  in  comoarison.  The  Mohammedan  who 
takes  his  bath  so  frequently,  and  has  the  soles  of  his  feet 
made  so  tender  by  the  rubbing,  must  be  peculiarly  sensitive 
there. 

The  Ghourah  bazaar  and  its  rare  attractions  have  been 
well  descanted  on  by  travellers  ; though  not  excelling  in  rich- 
ness the  shaAvl  bazaar  of  Constantinople,  and  some  others 
there,  it  is  fuller  of  various  life.  Every  nation  in  the  world, 
almost,  is  represented  - here  : Turks,  Syrians,  Kurds,  Hindoos, 
Ethiopians,  Abyssinians,  Circassians ; and  Turkish  and  Ara- 


SIGHTS  OF  CAIRO. 


21 


bian  women,  less  veiled  than  those  in  Constantinople.  The 
perfumery  bazaar,  with  its  quaint  orientalism  ; the  carpet  and 
mat  bazaar,  with  its  Turks  bearded  like  Abraham ; the  Ham- 
zaja  bazaar ; the  handkerchief  and  embroidery  bazaar ; the 
bazaar  of  arms ; the  Hanhalil ; the  Settizenab,  and  its  Be- 
douins of  the  desert  caravans  ; the  Bab-el-Nasr,  and  ancient 
gate  of  the  vanquishers  of  the  Crusaders  ; the  Ghu-a-hinneh  ; 
the  palaces  of  the  old  Beys,  and  rare  Turkish  life  in  the  old 
quarter  : all  this  is  well  described  in  Mr.  Lane’s  Book  of  the 
Modern  Egyptians,  and  you  may  see  it  recorded  and  pictured 
in  his  fine  edition  of  the  Illustrated  Arabian  Nights.  Mr. 
Lane  is  one  of  the  foreign  lions  of  Cairo,  but  keeps  himself 
very  secluded,  being  industriously  engaged  on  a large  Arabic 
dictionary — a great  desideratum  to  oriental  scholars.  He  lives 
with  his  sister,  Mrs.  Poole,  author  of  The  Englishwoman  in 
Egypt whose  son  has  been  well  praised  by  Miss  Martineau, 
as,  for  a young  Egyptian  hieroglyphical  scholar,  he  is  almost 
unexcelled. 

The  days  of  chivalry,  as  D’Israeli  makes  Baron  Rothschild 
say,  were  not  difierent  from  ours.  “ Life  then  was  a circle  of 
great  ideas;  now  ’tis  a circle  of  small  ones.”  Instead  of 
Richard  Coeur  de  Lion  and  Saladin,  it  is  a Consul  General  and 
a brutal  Abbas  Pacha.  Instead  of  a noble  Arab,  as  Scott  has 
represented  in  his  Talisman,  it  is  a quarrelsome  Reis  and  his 
quarrelsome  crew ; a swindling  dragoman  trying  to  pocket 
your  piastres,  and  suiting  all  his  plans  and  purposes  to  that 
end.  As  to  what  modern  Egyptian  life  is,  I cannot  improve 
upon  Mr.  Lane’s  description  of  the  “ Manners  and  Customs  of 
the  Modern  Egyptians,”  and  the  notes  that  are  scattered 
through  his  edition  of  the  “ Arabian  Nights  and  it  is  super- 
fluous to  repeat  in  this  brief  and  rapid  sketch  what  others 


22 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 

have  spent  more  than  a quarter  of  a century  in  describing. 
A half  day’s  walk  through  Cairo  sufficed  to  prove  the  remark- 
able accuracy  of  Lane’s  work. 

- My  first  week  in  Cairo  was  actively  employed  in  sight 
seeing,  and  whirling  around  its  narrow  streets,  with  a donkey 
boy  crying,  Riglac  oh  bente — “ get  out  of  the  way,  oh  lady 
or  Riglac  nousrami^  “ get  out  of  the  way,  Christian  — Riglac 
haudouVj  “ get  out  of  the  way,  you  other  donkey-bo^^” 

There  is  no  lack  of  amusement  in  all  these  oddities  ; and 
as  for  the  sights,  from  the  Mohammedan  betrothal  and  wed- 
ding, with  all  its  grotesque  masquerading,  and  symbols,  and 
Alme’s  dancing,  et  id  genus^  to  the  circumcision  with  its 
drums,  &c.,  the  pure  orientalism  of  the  turban — the  black 
turban  of  the  Copt  and  his  huge  sensual  neck,  the  bright  eyes 
of  an  Arab  from  the  shores 

“ Off  Mozambic  or  where  the  spicy  odors  blow. 

From  Araby  the  blest,’’ 

how  shall  I describe  them?  There  too  was  the  Memlook 
dress,  and  its  owner  glittering  with  arms  and  proudly  ferocious 
in  gait ; the  flaming  Cairean  robes  of  striped  silk  adorning  the 
Turk  or  the  Jew  ; the  Egyptian  lady  with  her  mantle  of  black 
silk,  which  is  also  worn  by  many  Italians  and  French. 

Camels  loaded  with  stones  come  along  threatening  to  crush 
you  and  your  donkey  ; water-carriers,  beggars,  santons  ; Turks 
sitting  in  their  bazaars,  crying,  Thayeeh  Mashallah  ; Greeks 
looking  for  a chance  to  turn  a penny  or  to  blackguard  you  : 
Arabs  of  every  variety,  from  the  Hadji  of  Mecca,  the  sheikh 
of  the  desert,  to  the  boatman  and  camel-driver ; ukmah  or 
sellers  of  sherbet,  serpent  charmers  with  their  snakes,  orange 
women,  and  other  women  with  their  caps  or  wares ; beggars, 


23 


DR.  ABBOTIS  MUSEUM. 

barbers,  pedlers  of  robes  from  Damascus,  fortune-tellers, 
jugglers,  mountebanks,  fakirs,  merchants  and  mollahs,  Mo- 
hammedan priests,  barbers  and  butchers,  saddlers  and  slipper- 
makers,  in  the  narrow  dingy  streets — there  are  they  all. 

Dr.  Ahbofs  Museum. — This  is  one  of  the  great  curiosities 
of  Cairo.  Lepsius  has  said  that  the  museum  is  worth  £7000. 
His  price  is  £10,000. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  interest  is  the  necklace  bearing 
on  several  of  the  links  the  cartouche  of  Menes  of  the  first 
dynasty,  “ who  walks  with  Amon,”  a seal  ring  of  gold,  with 
a broad  face,  on  which  in  most  exquisite  engraving  is  the  car- 
touche of  Souphis  or  Cheops  of  the  fourth  dynasty.  An  iron 
breastplate  and  chain,  much  covered  with  rust,  has  the  name 
of  Shishak  or  Sheshonk,  who  vanquished  Jeroboam.  Some 
of  his  curiosities,  a lizard  in  metal,  and  some  sculptures  in 
limestone,  are  the  most  beautiful  I have  ever  seen.  His 
mummied  bulls  and  human  mummies,  his  rings  and  thou- 
sand cartouches,  are  antiquities  of  several  dynasties.  His 
mummied  cats,  and  particularly  his  papyri,  are  very  perfect. 
There  is  one  containing  a ritual,  which  is  very  valuable. 
Numerous  steles  or  tablets  of  the  times  of  the  shepherd  kings, 
&c.,  are  full  of  historical  interest. 

The  Egyptian  Literary  Association,  of  which  Dr.  Abbot  is 
one  of  the  founders,  and  Clot  Bey,  Suleiman  Pacha,  and 
several  learned  Europeans,  members,  is  one  of  the  finest  insti- 
tutions in  the  world  for  the  study  of  Egyptian  subjects. 

The  tombs  of  the  Memlook  kings  to  the  south  of  old  Cairo 
and  toward  the  Arabian  desert  in  the  east,  are  an  interesting 
necropolis.  Familiar  as  I was  with  Mohammedan  cemeteims 
in  Constantinople,  Scutari  and  Pera,  the  Golden  Horn  and  the 
Bosphorus,  I could  not  but  compare  the  beauty  of  those  upon 


24 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


which  “ Annstasius  ” so  poetically  dwells,  with  this  forest  of 
turbaned-headed  tombstones  in  the  skirts  of  the  lonely  desert. 
Here  are  the  interesting  tombs  of  the  Memlook  kings  in  a 
walled  court,  covered  with  flowered  ornaments  of  brilliant 
colors  and  Arabic  inscriptions.  But  the  finest  specimens  of 
arabesque  I saw  in  the  tombs  of  the  Pachas : those  of  Mo- 
hammed Ali’s  family,  his  wives  and  sons,  particularly  that 
of  the  lamented  and  promising  Tousson,  so  spoken  of  by 
travellers,  were  the  finest.  It  is  a beautiful  thought  of 
orientalism,  to  place  perpetual  flowers  on  the  dwellings  of  the 
dead.  Here  was  the  tomb  of  Ibrahim  covered  with  a green 
shroud,  for  it  was  not  yet  completed.  Some  of  the  family 
were  here,  and  many  real  flowers  lay  scattered  about,  and 
wreaths  on  the  head-stones.  What  a prolific  progenitor 
Mohammed  Ali*  has  been  ! he  may  well  vie  with  Methusaleh, 
and  the  other  patriarchs,  or  with  Solomon.  A large  mosque  is 
filled  with  the  tombs  of  his  family,  and  I should  judge  that 
thirty  were  tho*se  of  his  sons  and  daughters,  his  sons’  wives, 
and  grandsons  and  granddaughters. 

The  Imaum-e-Shufifer  is  worth  visiting. 

I also  went  to  the  site  of  the  Roman  Babylon,  which  was 
not  far  from  old  Cairo. 

The  mosque  of  Tayloom  is  one  of  the  finest  erections  of 
Caliph  and  Mameluke  architecture.  I rode  my  donkey  into 
it,  which  quite  shocked  the  Mohammedan  bystanders. 

Spur  on  my  donkey — my  Arab  boy — to  Mataryeh  and  the 
sacred  tree  and  fountain  of  the  Holy  Family,  and  then  over 

* While  correcting  the  proofs  of  this  work,  the  intelligence  reaches  us  that 
this  great  reformer  of  Egypt — great  alike  in  his  usefulness,  his  ambition,  and  his 
crimes — is  dead.  Even  the  shadow  of  his  name  will  no  longer  save  Egypt  from 
England  or  the  Porte. 


HELIOPOLIS. 


25 


the  plain  to  the  orange  groves,  where  stand  the  site  and  obe- 
lisk of  Heliopolis.  The  City  of  the  Sun,  or  of  Destruction,  as 
the  prophet  Isaiah  calls  it,  is  one  of  the  five  cities  in  the  land 
of  Egypt  that  “ should  speak  the  language  of  Canaan,  and 
swear  by  the  Lord  of  hosts.”  It  can  boast  of  no  ruin,  but  a 
solitary  obelisk  in  the  midst  of  a garden  marks  the  spot  vdiere 
stood  the  famed  city,  On,  and  its  temple  of  the  Sun.  Here 
Joseph  found  in  the  daughter  of  its  high  priest,  a wife ; and 
here,  perhaps,  Moses  studied  the  ancient  lore.  The  prophecy 
of  Isaiah*  was  fulfilled  here-  for  Onias,  the  high  priest,  in  the 
time  of  the  Maccabees,  built  a temple  that  was  much  resorted 
to  by  the  Jews.  The  obelisk  bears  the  name  of  Osirtasen,  the 
king  who  (as  some  believe)  expelled  the  shepherd  kings  from 
Egypt.  Several  of  the  obelisks  have  been  carried  away. 
Those  which  are  at  Alexandria  are  said  to  have  stood  here. 
True,  you  may  see  in  the  British  Museum  a cast  of  the  obe- 
lisk, and  read  its  characters ; but  do  you  stand  in  On,  and  in 
the  place  where  Moses  was  schooled,  among  the  shades  where 
Plato  and  his  companions  walked  in  the  orange  groves — 
where  Diodorus,  and  Herodotus,  and  Anaxagoras,  and  Solon, 
(the  thrifty  olive-merchant  of  Greece,)  came  to  learn  mysteries 
and  the  secret  of  eternal  life,  which  the  priests  of  Phre — the 
Poti-phres,  or  Potiphars,  were  suposed  to  have  taught?  A 
part  of  the  inscription  on  the  obelisk  is  as  follows,  when  trans- 
lated into  English,  beginning  to  read  from  the  south  side  : — 
Verse  first.  ‘‘The  Sun  to  King  Ramestes.  I have  be- 
stowed upon  you  to  rule  graciously  the  world.  He  whom  the 
I Sun  loves  is  Horus  the  Brave,  the  lover  of  truth,  the  son  of 
Heaven,  born  of  God,  restorer  of  the  world.  He  whom  the 
Sun  has  chosen  is  King  Ramestes,  valiant  in  battle,  to  whom 

* Chap.  xix.  vers.  18,  19. 

2 


26 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


all  the  earth  is  subject  by  his  might  and  bravery.  Ramestea 
the  king,  the  immortal  offspring  of  the  Sun.” 

Verse  second.  “ Horns  ....  the  brave,  who  sheds  a splen- 
dor over  Heliopolis,  and  regenerates  the  rest  of  the  world,  and 
honors  the  gods,  who  live  in  Heliopolis,  him  the  Sun  loves.” 
Verse  third.  “ Homs  the  brave,  the  offspring  of  the  Sun, 
all  glorious,  whom  the  Sun  loves,”  &c. 

Another  verse.  “ He  beautified  Heliopolis.” 

To  the  east.  Verse  first.  “The  great  god  from  Heliopo- 
lis. Celestial  Homs,  the  brave  ....  Him  Ammon  . loves 

And  him  the  all  glittering  has  chosen  for  his  eternal  king.”  . . . 

This  is  sufficient  to  identify  the  site,  for  which  purpose 
they  are  quoted. 

Rhoda  island  is  one  of  the  charms  of  Cairo.  Its  roses 
make  it  the  resort  that  its  gardens  have  ever  been  since  the 
Romans  or  the  Greeks,  and  probably  Pharaohs.  The  gay 
Caireans  crowd  here  on  Friday ; and  its  roses  are  as  thick 
and  luxuriant  as  when  the  Greeks  named  it  Pcodog.  When  I 
came  here,  Ibrahim  Pacha  had  just  died,  and  his  fine  palace, 
to  which  it  is  the  garden,  was  being  stripped.  Its  orange 
groves,  fountains  and  walks  ; its  kiosk  of  shells ; its  Nilo- 
meter  on  the  south  end,  where  Moses  v/as  said  to  have  been 
found  : the  view  from  the  walled  walk,  of  the  luxuriant  valley, 
and  the  rank  sedgy  banks,  make  you  encourage  in  fancy  the 
thought,  that  here  the  Pharaohs  chose  what  must  have  been 
the  most  enchanting  spot  for  their  palaces.  Here  Amense  the 
princess,  “daughter  of  Pharaoh,”  walking  on  banks  where 
you  still  see  bulrushes,  found  the  hero-infant — the  future 
lawgiver  of  God — who,  in  youth  and  early  manhood,  (as  it  is 
said,)  repaid  the  debt  by  teaching  her  the  true  God,  and  for 
which,  in  turn,  she  obtained  for  him  those  exclusive  privileges 


RIVER  PALACES  OF  OLD  CAIRO. 


27 


from  the  priests,  of  their  instructing  him  in  “ all  the  wisdom 
of  the  Egyptians,”  and,  had  he  desired  it,  would  have  made 
him  the  successor  to  the  throne : virtues  which  her  successor, 
Moeris,  in  jealousy  of  Moses,  repaid  by  blotting  her  name 
from,  and  defacing  the  monuments. 

In  the  evening,  I rambled  among  the  palaces  of  the  Beys 
and  Pachas,  and  the  colleges  and  military  schools  of  the  young 
Osmanleys.  I listened  to  the  notes  from  piano,  harp,  and 
timbrel,  which  are  to  be  heard  through  the  closed,  latticed 
windoAvs  of  the  harem,  where  are  Circassian  beauties,  and  all 
the  richness  of  oriental  luxury,  safely  concealed  from  the 
profane  eye  of  the  “ unbeliever.” 

The  sun  was  setting  over  the  distant  pyramids  in  the  ex- 
quisite beauty  and  glow  of  an  Egyptian  sky,  and  the  cymbals 
of  the  Turkish  garrison  were  ringing  in  my  ears,  while  I did 
full  justice  to  the  dinner  provided  by  Beckra,  my  Syrian  cook 
from  Damascus  ; and  in  anticipation  dwelt  with  delight  upon 
all  that  I was  to  see  in  the  six  hundred  miles  of  beauty  and 
antiquity  before  me. 

I hoisted  the  American  flag,  took  leave  of  kind  friends  who 
came  down  to  see  me  off,  and  established  myself  comfortably 
in  the  cabin,  armed  Avith  pistols,  books,  and  a mosquito-net. 
The  crew  began  their  happy  song,  beating  the  sakia  or  earthen 
drum^  clapping  their  hands  in  accompaniment,  and  chanting 
a low  song,  increasing  in  energy  and  motion  till  they  danced. 
We  passed  the  Halil  palace,  (from  Avhose  windows  came  soft 
music  and  singing,  Avhich  I knew  was  of  a Circassian  voice,) — 
and  the  Nilometer.  The  Arabs  sang  me  to  a refreshing  sleep. 
The  first  two  days  went  on  finely.  After  Ave  had  left  the 
pyramids  of  Abousir,  the  false  pyramid  was  the  first  ruin  of 
interest,  and  the  pyramids  of  Howara  and  Illaloon,  a journey 


28 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


to  which  St.  John  has  well  described.  When  a head  wind 
kept  us  to  the  bank,  I went  ashore  to  a heled^  or  village, 
where  I usually  called  on  the  venerable  old  sheikh  ; with  Coptic 
or  Jewish  scribes,  sitting  on  a mat.  When  I told  him  that  I 
was  an  American,  with  an  air  of  superior  wisdom  he  told  his 
attendants  that  “ Americanos  were  the  ship-builders  of  the 
Sultan  in  Stamboul.” 

Reis  Suleiman  commanded  my  boat,  and  Abder  Achmed, 
his  brother-in-law,  was  helmsman  ; a tall  Nubian,  a Berber 
'Abudillah,  an  industrious  Arab  Ali,  an  honest  Berber  Schadi 
— these  six  composed  the  crew. 

My  dragoman,  Antonio  Kalieh,  is  an  Albanian  Greek.  He 
was  born  in  Iro  Castri  in  Albania,  and  has  made  many  trips 
through  the  east,  to  Damascus,  and  has  frequently  been  from 
Aleppo  to  Bagdad  by  caravan.  He  was  once  a dragoman  to 
Hamilton,  who  gave  him  a good  character ; but  has  probably 
since  degenerated. 

The  grottoes  of  El  Massara,  which  are  near  the  village 
Tourah,  may  well  induce  one  to  stop  his  boat.  Here  they 
found  the  stone  for  the  pyramids  and  mighty  works  of 
Memphis,  and  here  the  Hebrews  labored  for  their  cruel 
taskmasters. 

One  morning  after  breakfast  I went  ashore  with  my  gun, 
popping  at  the  pigeons,  wild  ducks,  and  pelicans,  along  the 
bank.  Now  I would  start  the  beautiful  white  Ibis,  whom  the 
Egyptians  might  well  respect  for  his  carriage,  and  liken  to 
humanity.  I enjoyed  with  rapture  the  salubrious  clime,  the 
clear  and  serene  heaven,  the  genial  warmth  of  the  sun, — the 
fragrant  breath  of  nature.  Village  after  village  enticed  me  far 
in  advance  of  my  boat.  Here  were  cool  delightful  groves,  near 
which  old  patriarchal  Turks  were  overseeing  the  labors  of  the 


ADVENTURES  ASHORE. 


29 


simple,  respectful  Arab,  cultivating  for  them  the  fig  and  the 
vine, — lofty  palm-trees,  scattered  in  isolated  beauty,  spread  a 
refreshing  shade.  Sometimes  the  old  men  came  up  and  kissed 
my  hand : one  sitting  on  a mat  in  front  of  his  house,  where 
his  wife  was  sewing,  invited  me  to  sit  down.  Declining  the 
courteous  solicitation,  I pursued  my  course,  now  walking 
through  open  woodland  ranges,  luxuriant  with  dense  foliage 
and  the  richest  sward,  approaching  the  majesty  and  grace 
of  an  English  park — now  passing  through  a populous  village, 
conspicuous  with  mosque  and  minaret  and  bath — always 
pursued  by  the  snarling  bark  of  the  unchristian  dogs,  and  the 
“ or  “ Nousrami^^  (dog  of  a Christian,)  of  the  no  less 

malignant  juveniles.  The  children  and  the  curs  are  as  anti- 
Christian  as  ever.  Some  of  the  finest  men  and  women  that  I 
had  ever  seen,  were  returning  from  the  well  cultivated  fields 
that  extend  to  the  oasis  of  the  Fayoom ; they  always  gave 
the  respectful  salutation  of  “ Salaam  Aleycoum,”  (God  be  with 
you,)  or  “ Sabbahy  V kair,”  (Good  day.)  The  atmosphere  was 
impregnated  with  the  fragrant  blossoms  of  pea  and  bean 
fields,  in  full  bloom,  which  were  tall  as  one’s  head  in  growth. 
At  sunset,  I reached  the  bank  of  the  river  again.  I had  been 
in  the  sun  all  day,  and  was  heated.  I threw  my  clothes 
off,  and  enjoyed  the  refreshing  luxury  of  a plunge  in  the  river. 
What  a renovation  ! This  Nile  is  certainly  a valuable  gift  to 
Egypt. 

In  the  next  village  a woman  cooked  me  some  eggs,  and 
I supped  on  milk  and  Arab  bread.  Ten  o’clock  came,  and 
no  boat.  I was  about  to  accept  the  hospitality  of  a boatman 
lying  by  the  shore,  as  the  village  was  filled  with  scowling 
men  prowling  with  clubs,  but  I saw  a light  in  the  far  dis- 
tance. I fired  my  gun,  while  the  boatmen  hailed  Reis 


30 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Suleiman.  How  it  echoed  in  the  night  solitude  ! Soon  I 
heard  one  of  iny  pistols  fired  by  Antonio,  and  the  clear  distinct 
cry  of  “ Howaga.”  In  half  an  hour  my  boat  came  up.  My 
boatmen  were  no  less  joyed  than  myself.  Antonio  had  kept 
my  dinner  warm,  and  I dined  at  eleven  o’clock,  and  rested 
from  the  fatigues  of  the  day. 

Reached  Benisooef  the  next  evening.  It  is  a good  sized  town, 
has  a little  bazaar,  palace  of  a Bey,  mosque,  (fee.  Halil, 
Effendi,  a Bey,  was  starting  on  a visit  to  Minieh,  and  I saw 
an  instance  of  the  oppression  of  the  rulers.  They  pressed  at 
every  village  men  from  their  work  ; one  man,  armed  with  a 
whip  and  dagger,  ran  along,  catching  whom  he  could,  and, 
dragging  them  to  the  boat,  made  them  pull  it  to  the  next 
village,  where  the  same  was  repeated ; while  the  crowds 
deserted  their  work  as  they  came  up.  One  of  the  taxgatherers 
I saw  take  a poor  man’s  sheep,  his  only  property  in  the  world  ; 
and  every  man  has  to  pay  his  neighbor’s  taxes,  if  he  be  poor, 
so  that  all  comes  to  the  oppressive  pacha. 

At  Benisooef,  one  of  my  crew,  Achmed,  deserted.  He  had 
been  my  companion  in  excursions  ashore,  and  always  carried 
my  fowling-piece.  I had  given  him  several  presents,  which 
he  repaid  by  running  away.  We  had  a head  wind,  and  the 
crew  behaved  badly : but  I was  spending  the  interval  com- 
fortably under  the  roof  of  a French  refugee,  Castellan,  who 
had  served  in  Egypt  and  Algiers,  and  was  physician  here ; 
and  next  to  the  Governor,  as  Hakim  Pacha^  had  the  rule.  He 
gave  me  letters  to  all  the  Hakims,  and  French  gentlemen  in 
the  towns ; lectured  my  crew ; abused  my  dragoman  as  a 
mauvais  Grecque^  which  I began  half  to  suspect  was  the 
case,  and  insisted  on  parting  most  affectionately.  In  my  walks 
along  the  shore  to  Benisooef,  I found  exceeding  interest  in  the 


BENISOOEF. 


31 


neighborhood  of  the  brick  pyramid  of  Hawara  and  of  Illaloon. 
I found  the  works  of  the  Israelites,  which  their  taskmasters, 
Moeris  and  his  contemporaries,  made  them  build.  In  enter- 
ing the  region  of  the  Fayoom,  I made  frequent  excursions 
toward  Lake  Moeris ; but  as  to  the  Labyrinth,  I had  satisfied 
myself  from  the  authorities  of  all  writers  from  Herodotus  to 
St.  John,  that  a search  for  it  would  be  most  unsatisfying.  In 
one  excursion,  in  which  I must  have  been  very  near  it,  I 
found  brick  with  straw^  such  as  the  Hebrews  used.  The 
obelisk,  bearing  the  name  of  Osirtasen,  is  really  of  interest ; but 
I preferred  resting  quietly  and  reading  in  Moore’s  “ Epicurean,’’ 
of  the  poetical  labyrinth,  to  looking  for  sites  of  the  real  one. 

The  two  cities  of  Heracleopolis  and  Oxyrinchus,  which  are 
both  included  in  the  ancient  nome  of  Arsinoe,  'have  scarcely  a 
wreck  of  their  former  grandeur.  A single  Corinthian  column 
stands  alone  to  mark  the  site  of  Oxyrinchus.  The  town  of 
Behnesa  is  situated  in  sight  of  the  river,  and  on  an  eminence. 
I took  my  Berber,  and  followed  the  water-carriers  crowding 
to  it : it  is  about  a mile  off,  situated  in  a flourishing  plain.  I 
walked  through  the  bazaar,  and  one  or  two  well  dressed  and 
caparisoned  Turks  passed  me  on  their  horses.  The  Governor’s 
palace  was  here,  but  I had  not  time  to  call  on  him.  In  the 
mosque  of  Behnesa  are  some  columns  once  belonging  to  old 
Oxyrinchus.  Mounds  are  all  around,  showing  the  former  site 
of  a great  city. 

We  had  an  exquisite  sunset  and  view  up  the  river,  as  we 
passed  Gebel  el  Teir,  or  Mountain  of  the  Birds.  The  wild- 
ness of  this  region  has  been  well  described  by  travellers. 
There  are  tombs  cut  all  along  in  the  side  of  the  rock.  The 
convent  is  inhabited  by  monks  almost  of  the  same  character 
with  the  people.  My  Arabs  are  full  of  fears.  They  keep  upon 


32 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  with  some  reason ; for  I find, 
since  the  time  of  Bruce,  they  have  been  here  a wild  robber  race. 
Worse,  more  hang-dog  looking  faces,  I never  have  seen.  One 
who  devastated  the  whole  country,  came  to  a village  where 
there  were  two  or  three  soldiers,  stripped  them  all,  and  told 
them  to  go  to  Ibrahim  Pacha  and  tell  him  it  was  he — giving 
his  name — and  to  catch  him  if  he  could.  At  Tehnah  I 
visited  the  site  of  the  ancient  Achoris : near  here  is  the  cele- 
brated cave  of  Diana,  and  the  worship  of  Diana  was  kept  up  in 
this  region.  Every  locality  and  mountain  in  Egypt  has  its 
legend,  and  goddess  protector.  Here  it  was  Diana ; and  lying 
in  my  boat,  as  we  passed  those  mountains  in  the  moonlight,  I 
could  fancy  the  old  Greco-Egyptian’s  worship  of  his  goddess, 
who  he  believed  chased  her  prey  over  the  hills  ; or  of  the 
older  Egyptian  to  whom  she  was  Diana-Lucina,  and  who 
believed  her  the  nurse  of  Horus ; and  the  legend  is,  that  flee- 
ing from  Typhon,  she  hid  him  in  these  caves.  The  site  of 
Artemidos  Speos  is  just  above,  where  her  abode  was ; and 
the  moon  lighting  up  these  hills  like  day,  I fancy  we  hear 
the  fleet  horses  of  the  goddess.  Yes,  like  fair  Greece,  bright 
Egypt  had  its  beautiful  mythology,  but 

“ The  intelligible  forms  of  ancient  poets, 

The  fair  humanities  of  old  religion, 

The  power,  the  beauty,  and  the  majesty. 

That  had  their  haunt  in  dale,  or  piny  mountain. 

Or  forest,  by  slow  stream,  or  pebbly  spring. 

All  these  have  vanished  ; 

They  live  no  longer  in  the  faith  of  reason.” 

Schiller’s  Wallenstein. 

The  prodigy  of  the  mountain  of  the  birds  is  a legend  that, 
at  a certain  season  and  hour,  large  flocks  of  birds  assemble  in 


ANTINOE. 


33 


the  valley,  and  go  through  the  mysterious  ceremony  of  insert- 
ing their  bills  in  one  of  the  clefts,  and  it  closes  upon  one  of  their 
number,  when  he  is  left  here  to  die,  and  the  others  fly  away. 

■ Soon  we  were  beyond  the  mountains  of  Sheikh  Said, 
where  the  Arabs,  from  an  old  tradition,  throw  some  bread 
into  the  water,  and  call  upon  him,  “ Oh  ho.  Sheikh  Said 
these  mountains  are  worn  underneath,  and  into  natural 
grottoes,  in  which  several  crocodiles  were  sunning  themselves, 
who  started  as  we  approached.  On  shore  near  Schmoun,  I 
saw  a young  man  riding  on  an  ass  with  his  wife  behind  him, 
and  they  looked  so  young,  and  such  a happy  couple,  that  I 
thought  oWsaac  wedding  Rebekah. 

From  here  the  winds  are  very  high,  particularly  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Gebel  Aboulfaydee,  and  the  Reis  and  Arabs 
keep  a good  look-out  in  holding  the  sail.  The  old  Grecian 
city  is  thus  described  by  Alciphron  : “ the  light  Grecian  archi- 
tecture of  the  imperial  city,  the  luxuries  and  honors  of  its  gar- 
dens— the  arches  of  triumph — the  superb  portico  that  encircles 
the  whole  city  with  its  marble  shade — the  Circus  of  the  Sun, 
by  whose  rare  colored  pillars  the  mysterious  movements  of  the 
Nile  is  measured — the  proud  monuments  of  glory  and  art, 
and  the  gay  multitude  that  enlivened  them.”* 

It  is  after  passing  Gebel  Hassan,  on  the  east  bank,  that  we 
come  in  sight  of  the  ruins  of  Antinoe,  and  the  city  built  by 
Hadrian  in  memory  of  his  favorite,  the  young  Antinoe.  If  the 
same  spirit  of  beauty  was  upon  this  city  as  is  upon  the  head 
of  Antinous,  what  a spot  of  loveliness  it  must  have  been  ! It  is 
an  oasis  in  the  wild  district,  whose  thievish  people  stretch  all 
along  here.  My  Arabs  dislike  going  to  that  shore,  and  always 
cross  to  the  other  side  before  night.  Antinoe  is  called  in 


* Epicurean. 
2* 


34 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Arabic,  Sheikh  Ababdie,  from  a tradition  of  the  Arabs  related 
by  Aboulfouda  in  his  description  of  Egypt.  In  those  times  it 
was  the  metropolis  of  Upper  Egypt,  and  a great  town  under 
the  Saracens.  The  young  Antinous  is  said  to  have  been 
drowned  in  the  Nile,  but  his  memory  is  preserved  in  one  of 
the  finest  sculptures  of  the  finest  Italian  gallery.  The  traces 
of  Corinthian  pillars,  triumphal  arches,  an  avenue  of  granite 
columns,  an  aqueduct,  and  many  other  Roman  remains  still 
mark  the  site ; but  I could  with  difficulty  trace  the  theatre 
spoken  of  by  travellers. 

It  is  among  the  anchorite  caves  in  this  rhountain  that 
Moore  lays  the  scene  of  his  Epicurean,  and  the.  retreat  of 
Melanius,  to  which  the  two  lovers  fly.  The  picture  he  draws 
from  the  top  of  the  mountain  you  might  draw  now,  were  not 
Antinoe,  opposite,  a ruin. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  rock  extending  on  either 
side  embraced  the  two  extremes  of  fertility  and  desolation.  . . . 
When  we  turned  to  the  river  what  a picture  of  animation 
presented  itself ! Near  us  to  the  south  were  the  graceful 
colonnades  of  Antinoe,  its  proud  populous  streets  and  tri- 
umphal monuments.  On  the  opposite  shore,  rich  plains,  all 
teeming  with  cultivation  to  the  water’s  edge,  seemed  to  offer 
up,  as  from  verdant  altars,  their  fruits  to  the  sun,  while  beneath 
us  the  Nile, 

“ The  glorious  stream, 

That  late  between  the  banks  was  seen  to  glide, 

With  shrines  and  marble  cities  on  each  side. 

Glittering  like  jewels  strung  along  a chain, 

Had  now  sent  forth  its  waters,  and  o’er  plain 
And  valley,  like  a giant  from  his  bed. 

Rising  with  outstretched  limbs,  superbly  spread.” 


AN  AGREEABLE  ENCOUNTER. 


35 


In  the  beautiful  valley  the  palm-trees  seemed  to  merge  into 
cool  alcoves,  and  we  appeared  to  sail  through  a land  of  roses. 
On  the  west  shore  lies  a town,  Coloso  or  Kolokosaneh.  Here 
crowds  of  market  women,  sitting  on  the  bank  with  the  deli- 
cious fruits  of  the  clime,  invited  us  to  the  shore ; and  I was 
equally  willing  as  my  boatmen,  as  the  wind  was  not  fair,  and 
the  Arabs  had  been  pulling  all  day,  to  rest  here  for  the  night. 
In  a cafe  were  gathered  a crowd  of  Aimes,  drinking  sherbet ; 
and  one  pretty  Alme  attracted  me  very  much,  as  I sat  sipping 
some  delicious  Turkish  colfee. 

An  hour  or  two  after,  strolling  through  the  town,  a crowd 
attracted  me  to  the  caf6  again,  and  there  I found  several 
Turks  of  the  better  class.  There  was  an  Effendi  there,  a 
Turk,  and  very  much  of  a gentleman ; two  or  three  Arabs 
from  the  Red  Sea,  who  were  in  some  political  station,  and  of 
noble  presence.  A Kurd  from  Erzeroum,  with  his  tall  cap, 
had  wandered  there  by  some  means ; and  a wild-looking, 
rascally  fellow  of  a Persian,  from  Kandahar.  They  had  pro- 
bably been  to  Mecca,  and  were  returning  upon  some  Moham- 
medan affairs.  We  were  very  gracious  to  each  other;  my 
cigars  made  them  all  friends  to  me,  and  we  had  on  the  whole 
a charming  chat.  We  kissed  each  other’s  hands,  when  we 
parted ; they  having  learned  from  me,  as  they  supposed,  all 
about  England  and  America,  and  I having  learned  a great 
deal  of  Arabic  and  of  the  customs  of  the  better  class. 

Just  as  I was  going  to  bed,  I heard  the  voices  of  some 
boatmen  coming  up ; and  looking-  out  on  the  bright  moon, 
saw  the  two  English  flags  of  some  voyageurs.  Our  drago- 
man soon  made  us  acquainted,  and  I went  on  board.  Mr. 

F y,  an  English  gentleman ; Mr.  C 1,  from  Scotland  ; 

and  Mr.  F.,  a Dutch  gentleman  from  Batavia,  in  Java.  We 


36 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


had  a pleasant  evening.  I dined  with  them  after  it ; and  as 
they  had  all  just  come  from  India,  they  had  much  to  tell  of 
interest.  Our  Java  friend  had  many  stories  of  Thugs  and 
Phansigars,  and  the  beauty  of  that  island  which  he  had  fully 
explored.  I heard  with  delight  his  stories  of  the  Malays. 

With  a fair  wind,  we  push  on  through  groves  and  islands, 
and  sedgy  banks  ; the  river  all  the  way  to  Osiout  is  dangerous, 
and  since  the  days  of  Bruce  has  abounded  in  robbers.  The 
boatmen  have  two  guards  at  night.  A story  of  an  English- 
man is  frequently  told,  that  some  blacks  from  Sahara,  that 
abound  in  the  bazaar  villages  from  here  to  Osiout,  came 
from  shore  and  killed  dragoman,  Englishmen  and  all.  They 
generally  swim  in  the  water  silently,  and  come  up  alongside 
the  boat  from  the  water  side  and  cut  your  throat.  My  Arabs 
sing  less  frequently.  Pass  Fushna,  a pretty  village  with  palm 
groves. 

We  are  through  the  province  Fayoom,  and  now  enter  the 
Vostani,  or  Middle  Egypt.  We  pass  Minieh  with  a fair  wind  ; 
and  though  I visited  it  on  my  return,  I will  describe  it  here. 

Minieh  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  Cynopolis,”  or  city 
of  the  dog ; and  it  was  said  that  there  were  here  temples  in 
honor  of  this  animal ; but  the  most  interesting  associations  of 
Minieh  are  those  of  the  times  of  the  Caliphs.  In  the  times 
of  Ibn  Katib,  (after  whom  it  was  named  Minieh  Ihn  Katib^) 
the  Caliph,  sent  hither  and  took  from  here  a Governor  who 
had  been  promoted  from  a menial  office  to  gratify  his  pique 
against  the  town.  This  man,  Ibn  Katib,  had  become  the 
best  of  governors ; but  now  deprived  of  his  office  was  wan- 
dering poor  and  a beggar  about  Bagdad,  when  a poet  came  up 
and  sang  his  praises.  He  replied  by  giving  him  a jewel 
which  he  had  saved  from  his  wreck ; and  the  value  of  this 


MINIEH. 


37 


caused  him  to  be  brought  before  the  Caliph,  who,  upon  hear- 
ing the  story,  restored  him  to  Minieh,  where  he  and  his 
posterity  long  reigned. 

On  my  return  here,  I stopped  and  visited  the  beautiful 
old  mosque  which  hangs  over  the  water’s  edge.  I wan- 
dered through  the  Turkish  town  (and  they  are  all  copies 
of  each  other),  looking  for  memorials  of  the  oriental  sway  in 
this  old  city.  I entered  the  bath,  so  well  described  by  Ste- 
phens, and  I believe  I had  the  same  operator.  Many  people, 
of  high  rank,  are  living  here.  My  old  shampooer  had  so 
satisfied  me  at  the  bath,  that  I gave  him  as  much  as  I did  the 
keeper  of  the  bath,  for  which  I could  hear  them  abusing  him 
after  I had  left. 

The  Governor  of  Minieh  is  very  severe.  One  woman  had 
just  been  executed  for  infidelity,  and  her  headless  trunk  was 
lying  in  the  streets.  A wind  from  the  north  detained  us  there 
some  hours,  strolling  about  the  bazaars.  I saw  a French 

hakim^  or  physician,  Mr.  M h.  I was  pleased  at  the 

handsome  appearance  and  correct  carriage  of  the  women,  who 
came  to  the  water’s  edge  to  draw  water. 

On  ascending  the  bold  Mount  Heredy,  I found  myself 
looking  down  into  a deep  dark  valley,  which  glittered  with  a 
sort  of  crystal  that  fills  the  place.  Some  of  these  crystals  are 
immense,  and  it  might  well  be  called  the  diamond  valley.  A 
large  vulture  was  on  a distant  crag,  and  I at  once  saw  the 
origin  of  the  story  of  Sindbad,  when  my  Arabs  spoke  of  the 
Elif  Laila^  or  thousand  and  one  nights.  A serpent  of  huge 
size  lived  here,  and  the  people  were  afraid  to  go  down  into 
this  abyss  to  get  crystals  for  fear  of  him  : voila^  the  bits  of 
flesh ; the  roc,*  the  serpent  of  Sindbad.  This  serpent,  or 


* From  the  Rock  ham,  Arabic,  for  “ vulture.’ 


38 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


another  one,  was  here  till  very  lately,  and  the  Arabs  believed 
that  the  body  of  Sheikh  Heredy  was  changed  into  a serpent ; 
the  legend  probably  derived  from  the  Egyptian  idea  of  the 
serpent  Kneph — their  good  spirit.  When  they  are  in  difficulty 
they  call  on  Sheikh  Heredy,  and  my  Arabs  cried  out.  “ Ah  ! 
ha  ! Sheikh  Heredy  P to  show  me  the  echo  of  the  place. 

Mount  Ababdie  and  Sheikh  Ababdie  is  another  legend. 

The  colossal  figure,  spoken  of  by  Yates,  is  still  to  be  seen 
at  the  bottom  of  Sheikh  Heredy.  It  somewhat  resembles  the 
Sphinx,  and  is  in  a sitting  posture.  The  mountains  here  offer 
fine  subjects  for  the  pencil,  and  I have  been  trying  my  poor 
hand  at  sketching.  I never  so  much  wished  to  be  an  artist  as 
here  on  the  Nile,  to  carry  away  some  of  the  beautiful  features 
of  the  scenery,  which  few  think  belong  to  this  river.  I trust 
our  artists  will  yet  be  here,  and  carry  away  a panorama  of  it, 
and  its  thousand  views,  as  they  have  done  of  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Rhine.  What  a picture  it  would  be ! Thebes, 
Edfou,  Phila0,  Alexandria,  Cairo,  Osiout,  moving  on  canvas 
before  you. 

The  fun  of  a fair  wind  on  the  Nile  is  great.  • There  is 
sometimes  a gust  that  nearly  capsizes  our  little  boat,  and 
nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than  the  efforts  of  our  Arabs. 
Each  one  shrieking,  jumping  first  to  one  side  and  then  to 
another ; the  venerable  Reis  storming,  and  the  folds  of  their 
turbans,  and  their  long  flowing  robes  streaming  in  the  wind  ; 
their  alarm,  and  efforts  with  their  poles ; the  white  sails,  so 
like  the  wings  of  a bird,  now  shifted  by  them  to  this  side,  and 
now  to  that ; and  they,  with  their  flashing  eyes  and  ivory 
teeth  showing  their  anxiety  as  they  tack,  while  on  we  speed 
like  a bird  by  villages,  towns,  mosques,  minarets,  in  an 
oriental  panorama.  And  when  all  danger  is  passed,  the  old 


GEBEL  ABOULFOUDA. 


39 


R4is  comes  aft  with  a grin,  as  he  has  done  a thousand 
times,  “ Haoua  thayeeh,  HowagdJ^ — “ Wind  is  fair,  Howaga 
Mouch  ketyr  minheeny^^ — “ Not  too  much  of  it  just  here 
hokra  (to-morrow)  Luxor ^ or  hokra  Lender as  the  case  may 
be  : and  the  others,  as  if  I should  pay  them  for  the  fair  wind 
which  Heaven  had  sent,  would  cry,  “ Backsheesh^  Howaga 
and  if  I answered,  “ Inshallah,'^  they  would  say,  “ Thayeeh, 
Howaga — Howaga,  thayeebP 

A nay’s  sail  among  the  mountains  of  Aboulfouda,  the  wild 
scenery,  the  picturesque  rocks  sinking  into  the  river,  the  tower- 
like promontories  and  strata,  were  indeed  among  the  most  in- 
teresting objects  of  my  journey. 

There  are  the  mountains  just  before  Manfaloot.  St.  John, 
Dr.  Richardson,  and  all  writers  upon  Egypt,  have  dwelt  upon 
the  peculiar  beauty  of  this  scenery  of  Gebel  Aboulfouda. 
Though  not  so  grand  as  that  of  the  mountains  of  Cheno- 
buscion,  I can  scarce  imagine  any  thing  more  picturesque. 
You  sail  under  the  rocks ; the  river  has  worn  caves  unap- 
proachable save  by  the  water.  Here  the  anchoret  has  cut 
himself  seats, 

“ Vivoque  Sedilia  saxo 

ind  you  can  look  far  into  them.  Then  on  the  edge  basks  the 
crocodile,  and  birds  fly  around ; pigeons  make  their  nests — 
tame  creatures,  sometimes  flying  on  your  boat : so  sacred  is 
the  bird.  Birds  rest  on  your  sails,  and  some  pick  up  the 
crumbs  by  you  and  the  grain  of  your  fowls. 

We  passed  after  Sheikh  Said,  or  Shek  Saadi,  the  Tel-el- 
Amaron,  and  El  Hargeh,  and  soon  arrived  in  sight  of  Manfaloot, 
but  having  a fine  wind,  did  not  land  till  on  my  return.  I was 
pleased  with  the  town,  as  its  towering  minarets  and  tree-hidden 


40 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


mosques  made  it  look  so  like  a New-England  village,  situated 
as  it  is  in  a green  plain,  and  on  the  placid  river.  Evidences  of 
lively  Turkish  life  were  about, — numerous  soldiers,  the  capari- 
soned horses  of  Turkish  officers,  and  the  clashing  cymbal  sounds 
of  a Turkish  band,  playing  an  old  English  tune,  which  I have 
frequently  heard  in  representations  of  Norman  history  in  the 
theatre.  How  familiar  it  sounded  on  the  remote  Nile.  Some 
English  refugee  had  been  here,  and  taught  the  Arabs  ; who 
have  a native  musical  skill,  and  under  French  teachers,  as  in 
the  military  bands  of  Cairo,  make  fine  musicians. 

On  my  return  down  the  Nile,  early  in  the  morning,  before 
sunrise,  we  landed  at  this  place,  and  I strolled  into  the  square, 
where  the  market-women  were  exposing  fruits,  vegetables, 
milk,  butter,  cheese,  bread,  and  all  the  products.  I was  there 
struck  with  the  civilized  restraint,  which  is  not  so  apparent  in 
Upper  Egypt.  I walked  several  times  through  the  bazaar,  a 
large,  wide  street,  which  would  have  been  an  ornament  to 
any  city.  The  superiority  of  the  shops,  the  fine  stores  of  a 
peculiar  kind  of  cloth  that  is  manufactured  here,  the  abun- 
dance of  Jew  and  Greek  merchants  and  Turks,  the  enter- 
prising appearance  of  the  place,  (owing  doubtless  to  this  com- 
paratively unproductive  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Nile,)  all  had 
an  interest  from  its  contrast. 

Beni  Hassan. — Who  does  not  here  recall  the  expression 
in  the  book  of  Job,  a “ tomb  cut  in  the  rock  The  name  of 
theOsitarsen  is  here,  who,  say  some,  expelled  the  shepherd  kings 
from  Egypt,  and  was  contemporary  with  Joseph ; and  who,  Bun- 
sen says,  with  more  explicitness  than  accuracy,  lived  a thousand 
years  before  Moses ^ and  that  in  his  reign  the  shepherd  kings 
invaded  Egypt.  But,  turning  from  such  crude  chronological 
conclusions,  how  interesting  the  proof  of  Scripture  truth  con- 


BENI  HASSAN. 


41 


tained  here.  The  interest  of  Egyptian  customs  and  trades 
developed  here,  is  all  written  in  Wilkinson.  In  the  tomb  of 
Pahri,  I was  gratified  by  the  testimonies  in  favor  of  Scripture 
that  crowded  upon  me.  But,  doubtless,  the  shepherd  kings 
were  expelled  by  Amosis ; and  Nolan’s  views  on  this  point 
seem  more  reasonable,  excepting  his  dates,  for  which  I prefer 
to  trust  to  Hales.  As  to  the  last  fragment  of  Manetho,  which 
Bunsen  accepts  and  Lepsius  rejects,  I think  it  either  a forgery, 
or  a lie  of  Manetho. 

Miss  Martineau,  in  her  book,  exaggerates  somewhat  the 
beauty  of  the  trades  and  customs  represented  in  the  tombs. 
In  all  of  them,  you  can  trace  doorways  and  pillars,  some 
sculptured,  some,  like  the  best  tombs  in  Thebes,  unfinished. 
Few  enter  all  the  tombs,  as  there  are  thirty-one  in  all,  and 
but  six  or  eight  are  interesting.  The  next  to  the  two  last  in 
the  face  of  the  mountain  has  a vaulted  portico,  and  two  fluted 
pillars ; its  basement  is  painted  a deep  red. 

Ositarsen  the  First  is  settled  by  Dr.  Lepsius,  of  Berlin,  to 
have  been  the  Setorsarsen  of  the  twelfth  dynasty.  The  expul- 
sion of  the  shepherd  kings,  by  Amosis,  according  to  Hales, 
dates  1909  b.  c.  ; while,  as  Bunsen  says,  the  shepherd  kings 
invaded  Egypt  in  his  time.  His  chronology  (by  his  accepting 
every  fragment  o’f  Manetho,  which  is  doubtless  in  parts  a forgery) 
difiers  several  hundred  years  from  Hales’s.  Josephus,  ambi- 
tious to  prove  the  Hebrews  a great  people,  has  falsified  history. 
He  wished  to  identify  them  with  the  shepherd  kings.  With 
Hales’s  chronology  I think  it  can  be  reconciled ; but  with  the 
lesser  chronology  of  Usher,  and  the  greater  of  Bunsen,  it  can- 
not be.  This,  and  the  proofs  from  these  tombs  and  those  of 
Ghizeh,  will  be  fully  shown  in  another  work. 

I noticed  in  one  of  the  tombs,  Sechonsosis’  name,  of  the 


42 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


same  dynasty  as  Manetho  names.  The  idea  that  the  captives 
in  this  tomb  were  Joseph’s  brethren,  which  Mrs.  Romer,  in 
her  Travels,  makes  such  a great  noise  about,  is  well  exposed 
by  Miss  Martineau  ; as  well  as  the  Elginism  of  Mrs.  Romer,  in 
removing  a figure  of  one  of  the  captives.  They  cannot  be 
Joseph’s  brethren,  because  they  are  figures  of  thirty-seven 
captives^  instead  of  Joseph’s  ten  brethren. 

The  Doric  style  of  the  columns  is  very  beautiful,  showing, 
in  this  highly  ancient  monument  of  Egypt,  the  origin  of  archi- 
tecture, so  improved  by  the  Greeks ; for,  except  the  pyramids, 
Beni  Hassan’s  tombs  are  the  oldest  monuments  in  Egypt. 

Miss  Martineau  says  it  is  safe  to  visit  Beni  Hassan ; but  I 
think  that  she  was  not  ashore,  among  the  scowling  vaga- 
bonds that  abound  all  the  way  up  from  Gebel  El  Teir  to  the 
tombs,  as  often  as  I was. 

In  one  little  Arab  village,  I entered  just  as  three  or  four 
had  reclined  around  a woman  sitting  under  a tree.  She  was 
of  the  red  hue  of  the  Abyssinians,  and,  as  I remarked,  it  was 
the  acacia  which  blooms  in  Abyssinia.  I could  not  but  fancy 
she  was  apostrophizing,  in  her  song,  the  tree  of  her  native 
land,  in  the  manner  of  the  poet : — 


“ Oh,  Abyssinian  tree  ! 

We  pray,  we  pray  to  thee. 

By  the  glow  of  thy  golden  fruit, 

And  the  violet  hue  of  thy  flower. 

And  the  greeting  mute 
Of  thy  boughs’  salute. 

To  the  stranger  who  seeks  thy  bower. 

“ Oh,  Abyssinian  tree  ’ 

How  the  traveller  blesses  thee, 


OSHMUNEIN. 


43 


When  the  night  no  moon  allows, 

And  the  sunset  hour  is  near, 

And  thou  bendest  thy  boughs 
To  kiss  his  brows. 

Saying,  ‘ Come,  rest  thee  here.’ 

Oh,  Abyssinian  tree ! 

Thus  bow  thy  head  to  me.” 

But  the  sentiment  was  only  for  a moment,  for  two  tall,  stout 
fellows,  armed  with  clubs,  came  out  and  checked  my  admira- 
tion. Two  Turks  stood  there,  who  had  observed  my  admi- 
ration for  the  singer ; which  now  controlling,  I walked  away, 
throwing  her  a piastre,  and  after  making  our  purchases  at  the 
'village,  we  continued  on  our  way. 

As  to  the  convent  of  the  pulley,  whose  beggarly  monks 
are  seen  at  this,  as  well  as  the  convent  of  St.  Anthony  and  St. 
Paul,  and  those  abounding  here,  I leave  them  to  the  pages  of 
Curzon,  who,  in  his  Monasteries  of  the  Levant,  has  fully 
described  and  exposed  their  claims  to  the  support  and  atten- 
tion of  the  Christian  world. 

Oshmunein  is  the  site  of  Hermopolis  Magna  of  the  Greeks 
and  Romans  ; but  few  ruins  remain  of  the  great  city  of  Hermes 
of  the  Egyptians,  the  stories  of  whom  make  us  well  conclude, 
with  Nolan,  that  it  was  the  divinely  taught  astronomical  and 
provident  wisdom  of  Joseph  that  furnished  the  tradition  and 
original  of  Hermes.  That  Joseph’s  interpretation  of  dreams 
gave  them  Hermes,*  and  his  astrological  science,  there  is  no 
manner  of  doubt. 

Here  they  built  their  city  ; and  as  he  was  the  original  of 
the  Mercury  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  as  the  divinity  of 


* See  what  Nolan  has  since  written  on  the  subject.  1849. 


44 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


wisdom  and  learning  here  at  Hermopolis  Magna,  the  Mace- 
donian and  the  Emperors  Ptolemys  and  Roman  Emperors  culti- 
vated his  worship.  What  a sublime  idea,  that  Scripture  Joseph 
gave  Egyptians,  Greeks,  and  Romans  their  finest  originals  of 
mythology ; and,  carry  the  idea  through : was  not  Noah,  Osiris ; 
and  Typhon  the  deluge  ? was  not  Shem,  Pthah,  and  did  they 
not  worship  Ham  as  an  astrologer  ? [see  in  Scripture  the  allu- 
sion to  “ the  wisdom  of  Canaan.”]  Did  they  not  gain  their  spir- 
ituality of  belief  from  the  Hebrew  divine  doctrine  of  the 
immortality  of  the  soul  ? and  were  not  their  Amenti  the  last 
judgment,  and  all  their  natural  religion  the  remains  of  primi- 
tive revelation  given  to  the  patriarchs  and  Hebrews,  and  partly 
inculcated  among  the  Egyptians  by  Moses  and  Joseph  ? 

Few  remains  mark  the  site  of  the  great  Hermopolis,  and 
only  some  bricks  tell  what  was  the  great  city  of  Hermes,  but 
the  well  of  Joseph  yet  gladdens  the  Palestine  traveller,  and 
the  localities  of  real,  defined  Scripture  antiquity,  are  settled 
without  doubt.  What  a host  of  convictions  confirm  the 
truth  of  the  Bible  in  Egypt ! The  mysteries  of  Egypt  were 
bugbears  and  charlatanism,  and  the  truth  of  Scripture  is  the 
highest,  best  truth,  possessing,  as  Sir  W.  Jones  said,  “more 
science,  more  antiquity,  more  lofty  poetry,  more  true  wisdom 
than  all  the  writings  of  all  the  authors  in  the  world.” 

Passing  over,  I was  near  the  mountains  on  the  Libyan  side, 
two  miles  distant  from  the  river.  Here  I entered  a town 
nearly  as  large  as  Benisoof,  which  was  really  a curiosity.  I 
doubt  whether  it  has  been  visited  by  many  travellers.  The 
houses  were  handsomely  built,  better  than  any  of  the  towns 
down  the  Nile.  Hundreds  of  Bedouin  encampments  were 
around  it,  and  the  town  was  walled.  Going  into  the  gates,  I 
walked  through  numberless  streets,  where  women,  engaged  in 


BEDOUIN  TOWN. 


45 


I 

i 

■ the  most  industrious  occupations,  seemed  to  be  as  much  aston- 
I ished  at  my  dress,  as  the  Indians  at  Peru  were  at  the  Spaniards. 

I I could  buy  nothing,  though  I saw  abundance  of  every  thing 
I I asked  for.  The  men  were  all  lying  on  the  ground  in  the 
i streets  in  rags,  and  a richer,  more  independent  set  of  beggars  I 
never  saw.  Not  even  a Turk  was  here — not  a trace  of  civili- 
zation ; nothing  but  the  Bedouin  Arabs.  Flocks  of  camels, 
sheep,  and  goats,  were  around,  and  all  showed  the  patriarchal 
independence  of  that  primeval  mode  of  life,  in  which  God 
created  man.  I was  unarmed,  but  I received  not  even  an 
insult — not  a word,  but  politeness.  Had  I entered  a town 
nearer  civilization,  where  Europeans  are  protected  by  Consuls 
and  frigates,  I would  have  been  insulted,  and,  being  defence- 
less, would  have  been  endangered.  I shall  never  forget  the 
bright  page  of  that  Bedouin  town.  Virtue,  the  wealth  of  a 
fine  soil,  a salubrious  atmosphere,  and  contentment  seemed 
to  reign.  On  my  way  toward  the  river,  numbers  of  young 
men,  apparently  fourteen  or  sixteen,  passed  with  their  wives, 
of  the  same  apparent  age,  all  carrying  baskets,  riding  on 
one  donkey.  They  evinced  the  best  breeding,  and  modesty 
that  would  have  adorned  a modern  city.  I never  carried 
arms  again  among  the  Bedouins. 

I returned,  directing  my  course  to  the  southeast,  and,  from 
a high  dike,  or  mound,  saw  my  boat — a mere  speck  far  below. 
I distinguished  the  flags  of  my  two  friends’  boats  far  in  the 
distance.  I arrived  in  two  hours  at  a village  on  the  river 
side,  and  waited  for  my  boat.  Here  I found  some  people 
slaughtering  an  ox,  and  could  easily  buy  milk,  bread,  and 
eggs,  which  I was  refused  every  where  along  the  plain,  away 
from  the  river.  In  the  larger  Bedouin  towns  they  told  me  I 
could  only  procure  food  at  a Belled^  or  small  village.  They 


46 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


are  forced  to  conceal  the  possession  of  even  milk  to  save  it 
from  the  Pacha  and  his  French  emissaries,  for  one  of  whom 
they  doubtless  took  me. 

On  arriving  at  my  boat,  I learned  my  acquaintances  had 
passed  it,  and  left  an  invitation  for  me  to  dine  in  the 
afternoon  at  Osiout  in  their  boat.  The  views  of  the  land- 
scape increase  in  beauty  ; miles  in  the  distance  lay  Osiout,  in 
the  midst  of  a fertile  plain. 

It  has  a little  port  where  my  frienfls’  boats  lay,  and  they 
having  gone  to  the  mountain,  I hurried  to  mount  one  of  the 
donkeys,  which  were  offered  me  in  good  English ; and 
Antonio  and  I were  soon  upon  the  lovely  ride  to  Osiout. 
Such  a beautiful  situation  ! The  trees  have  a peculiar  flower 
that  perfumed  the  atmosphere ; and,  on  each  side  of  an  ele- 
vated road,  over  which  we  ambled  on  our  nice  little  animals,  lay 
gardens  of  orange  trees,  and  groves : and,  as  we  approached 
the  outskirts,  these  gardens,  attached  to  palaces  of  the  Beys, 
and  wealthier  Osmanleys,  increased  in  beauty.  In  the  bazaar 
I saw  numbers  of  Bedouin  blacks  from  the  desert  of  Sahara ; 
the  tallest  men  I ever  saw,  perfectly  black,  with  the  purest  of 
white  robes,  armed  ferociously,  and  looking  like  very  Lucifers. 
Here  all  the  marks  of  an  Eastern  bazaar  are  to  be  seen — 
Turks,  Jews,  Greeks,  Arnaouts,  Gwawazie,  Arabs. 

The  Governor’s  house  has  been  described  by  Stephens.  I 
peeped  into  the  mosque,  and  saw  some  fine  columns.  I hur- 
ried away  to  the  tombs  and  site  of  ancient  Lycopolis.  Its 
ruins  are  built  into  the  mosques  and  towns  of  modern  Osiout. 

Here  was  the  capital  of  the  Lycopolite  nome,  where  the 
worship  of  the  Avolf  and  mummies  was  kept  up — some  say  the 
dog,  but  doubtless  it  was  the  jackal,  partaking  of  the  nature  of 
both.  The  paintings  on  the  tombs  abound  with  representa- 


TURKISH  BATH. 


47 


tions  of  them,  and  the  pits  are  filled  with  their  mummies ; a 
strange  and  sickening  idolatry,  which  Egyptian  scholars,  who 
conceive  idolatry  was  only  symbolical,  may  well  note.  It 
was  the  worst  specimen  of  animal  worship.  Wolves  and 
jackals  abounded  here,  and  were  the  curse  of  the  people ; 
they  feared  them,  and  worshipped  them. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  this  mountain  has  been  well 
described  by  Stephens,  and  I fear  my  readers  may  suspect  the 
genuineness  of  my  rhapsodies  on  Egypt,  if  I continue  them. 
The  plain  filled  with  fields,  the  vast  extent,  the  clear  atmos- 
phere, the  river  winding  through  the  noble  plain,  is  there  still, 
and  is  well  worth  a voyage  up  the  Nile. 

To  the  southeast  lay  the  Gebel  el  Kofferi,  in  whose  sides 
those  tombs  are  cut,  which  furnish  Stephens  with  his  descrip- 
tions and  adventures  with  wolves  and  bats 

The  Sababinath,  or  Chamber  of  the  Seven  Virgins,  has 
been  fully  described.  E.  Joy  Morris,  in  his  travels,  relates  an 
adventure,  as  well  as  the  murder  of  one  boatman,  and  the 
Governor’s  conduct  in  whipping  his  own  crew  for  it.  On  my 
return  to  the  town,  I saw  among  the  Sahara  Africans  some 
who  were  said  to  be  from  Senaar,  who  came  here  to  trade  in 
gold  and  ivory.  I went  to  the  Turkish  bath,  and  found  in 
the  room,  reposing  on  his  couch,  and  enjoying  his  pipe,  my 
Dutch  friend,  who  seemed  in  a very  disinterested  manner,  (in 
that  luxurious  position,)  to  ofier  to  wait  for  me.  That  bath  I 
shall  never  forget.  Constantinople’s  baths  of  Suleyman  Pacha 
were  nothing  to  it.  At  Cairo  I was  always  boiled,  but  in 
Osiout  I enjoyed  such  a bath  ( Turc)  as  I never  had,  or  expect 
to  have  again,  unless  I get  to  the  Mussulman’s  Paradise.  The 
darkness  on  entering,  the  luckily  late  hour  and  absence  of 
persons,  and  the  cleanliness,  the  finished  and  artistical  rubbing 


48 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


with  the  brush,  the  shampooing,  the  plunge,  and  the  delight- 
ful splashing  with  cold  water — and  though  I cried,  “ Not  too 
hot,”  my  old  Arab  understood  the  philosophy  of  contrast  too 
well  to  oblige  me — the  soaping,  and  the  whole  operation,  seemed 
to  stamp  the  character  of  my  performer.  When  he  gets  to  the 
Prophet,  he  will  be  promoted  to  his  grand  Hammam^  and  have 
as  many  Houris  as  the  Sultan.  On  reaching  the  couch  room, 
I found  my  friend  still  ready  to  wait ; and,  swathed  in  towels, 
for  an  hour  I reposed,  while  the  soles  of  my  feet  were  rubbed  : 
and  after  a nap,  and  coffee,  pipes,  sherbet,  lemonade,  &c.,  we 
were  on  our  donkeys,  and  riding  back  to  the  port  and  our  boats. 
How  the  clear,  delightful  air  seemed  to  rush  into  every  pore  as 
if  a thermometer  had  regulated  the  atmosphere  for  us — every 
breath  seemed  Paradise  ! How  beautiful  the  mountains  in 
the  setting  sun — the  high  temperature  of  an  air,  one  remove 
only  from  the  tropical. 

Back  to  Nile  and  its  refreshing  waters  again.  I dined 
with  my  friends  ; but,  as  the  wind  was  fair,  and  they  were 
forced  to  wait  for  their  men  to  make  bread,  (a  contingency 
which  I had  guarded  against  by  instructing  my  dragoman  to 
buy  a sheep  and  bread  for  our  men  that  we  might  not  delay,) 
I was  soon  leaving  beautiful  Osiout.  A piastre  had  given 
each  of  my  Arabs  a bath,  and  they  were  in  as  fine  spirits  as 
I was ; and  in  the  evening,  as  the  clear  bright  moon  shone 
upon  the  forms  of  Gebel  Osiout,  and  the  Libyan  chain,  and 
the  wind  carried  us  on,  while  the  stars  were  reflected  on  the 
water  as  I have  seen  them  in  clear  Lake  Leman,  or  on  the 
Rhine  at  Basle,  the  Arabs  told  a beautiful  story,  in  which 
I recognized  a likeness  to  one  of  the  Mollaka  stories  of  Per- 
cival.  They  told  the  story  of  Joseph  and  Potiphar’s  wife,  and 
their  usual  exciting  tales  of  An  tar,  and  his  beautiful  loved 


OSIOUT. 


49 


Hybla.  They  told  them  with  flashing  eyes,  interspersed  them 
with  fables  that  might  have  been  in  Lochman,  and  stories  from 
the  Elif  Laila  and  songs. 

We  bade  adieu  to  El  Hamra,  the  port  of  Osiout,  whose 
donkey  boys  are  so  smart,  and  leaving  our  English  friends, 
started  with  a fair  wind.  I sat  through  the  evening,  running 
over  in  my  mind  the  history  of  the  town  we  had  left.  Miss 
Martineau,  in  her  work,  describes  the  beautiful  plain,  and  has 
run  over  the  history.  Here,  in  earlier  times,  even  in  such 
beauty  of  nature,  men  worshipped  and  embalmed  the  wolf, 
and  the  dog,  and  the  jackal,  because  they  feared  them  as 
the  destroyers  of  their  flocks.  Here  the  Greek  Emperors  had 
a home,  as  Egypt’s  rulers  have  to  this  day.  Here  lived  the 
Christian  Bishop,  John  of  Lycopolis,  whose  famous  adventure 
and  connection  with  the  Emperor  Theodosius  of  Byzantium 
has  been  well  storied. 

While  going  over  the  beautiful  palace  and  gardens  of  Ibra- 
him Pacha,  where  Mohammed  Ali  always  lived  on  his  way  to 
Upper  Egypt,  I could  not  but  feel  the  interest  of  the  changes : 
that  the  Christian  Bishop  should  no  more  govern  this  charm- 
ing plain,  and  that  while  his  creed  rules  the  finest  part  of  the 
world,  his  former  home  is  ruled  by  the  Moslem.  The  fourteen 
minarets  of  Osiout ; the  steamboat  of  the  Pacha’s  daughter, 
who  is  old  now,  but  has  been  celebrated  for  her  lovers  ; the 
many  monuments  of  Moslem  sway — what  a change  ! Miss 
Martineau  compares  the  immense  plain  and  its  fertility  to  the 
rolling  prairies  in  Illinois,  and  with  some  justice.  Osiout  is 
the  present  capital  of  Upper  Egypt,  and  is  the  most  interesting 
city  on  the  Nile,  after  Cairo.  A description  of  the  present 
Egyptian  towns  would  form  an  interesting  volume  by  them- 
selves. o 


60 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Soohajz  is  the  ancient  ‘‘  Crocodilopolis,”  or  city  of  the 
crocodiles,  where  they  were  worshipped.  Here  we  were  sure 
of  seeing  large  ones,  and  our  guns  were  ready  for  a fine 
aim.  We  saw  two  huge  ones  on  a bank,  but  not  in  time  for 
a sure  shot.  From  here  travellers  generally  visit  the  convent 
of  Aboo-Shenood,  and  an  interesting  place  it  is  : the  half-naked 
monks,  running  about,  their  delight  at  seeing  a Frank  and 
Christian  who  will  give  them  a few  piastres,  are  a real  nov- 
elty. The  site  of  the  convent  is  the  old  city  of  Medeneh  A treeh, 
Mr.  Curzon,  in  his  Monasteries  of  the  Levant,  has  fully  de- 
scribed one  of  his  visits  here.  Certainly  the  monks  are  hospita- 
ble to  all  pilgrims  who  come  from  Abyssinia,  or  are  going  to 
the  church  there ; and  one  was  there,  who,  though  black,  was 
said  to  be  a highly  learned  man.  How  much  that  Hamyar 
priest,  (whose  black  skin  could  not  conceal  the  delicate  mod- 
esty of  the  scholar,)  how  much  could  he  tell  me  of  the  Sabe- 
ans  and  the  kings  of  the  East,  those  who  first  acknowledged 
Christ ; — whose  queen.-^as  Sheba  ; and  of  the  Abyssinian 
church  in  the  land  whence  came  gifts  of  gold,  frankincense, 
and  myrrh. 

Though  it  was  said  we  should  see  crocodiles  after  we  had 
passed  Minieh,  we  did  not  see  them  till  we  had  passed  Osiout. 
They  uniformly  dived  into  the  river  as  we  approached. 

Our  boat  took  a wrong  route,  and  the  reis  was  perplexed  by 
the  numerous  islands  here.  As  it  went  back,  I crossed  one  of 
the  islands  and  proceeded  up.  As  my  boat  came  up  in  an  hour, 
I had  to  cross  a fork  of  water  up  to  my  neck,  and  one  of  my 
boatmen,  who  had  been  sent  to  get  me,  stripped,  and  I sat  on 
his  head.  Half  way  over,  I heard  his  neck  crack  beneath’ 
me,  and  expected  a splash ; but  he  carried  me  bravely  over 
and  dropped  me  on  the  bank,  so  fatigued  that  he  could  only 


FARSHIOUT- 


51 


grin,  and  mutter  “ Thayeeb  Howaga.”  Poor  Saadi ! I liked 
him  best  of  them  all.  He  wanted  to  go  with  me  to  America. 

Farshiout  lies  between  Soohajz  and  the  bend  which  the 
river  makes  to  Dendera.  Like  the  whole  country  from  Gir- 
geh,  it  is  highly  productive  and  beautifully  cultivated.  Im- 
mense ditches  go  to  the  mountains,  which  irrigate  where  the 
river  Soohadjz  or  Soohadjz  Moje  Water  and  its  streamlets  do 
not  flow.  The  water-wheel  or  Sakias,  or  Persian  wheels,  are 
frequently  seen,  and  a greater  industry  seems  to  prevail  in 
the  cultivation  here.  The  river  is  filled  with  islands,  and 
navigation  is  difficult.  Sometimes  our  boats  get  aground,  and 
our  boatmen  strip  and  jump  into  the  water,  despite  the  timse- 
achs  or  crocodiles. 

At  sunrise  of  this  lovely  morning,  I Was  on  my  feet 
and  climbing  the  lofty  mountains  on  the  Arabian  side,  the 
whole  chain  of  which  are  called  the  mountains  El  Said,  and 
rise  in  forms  of  castellated  grandeur  as  we  ascend  the  Nile. 
The  Gebel-el-Teir  was  a wild  chain.^  Gebel  Heredy  was  lofty 
and  noble  *,  Gebel  Osiout  was  high  and  picturesque  ; and 
Gebel  Girgeh  higher  still.  But  if  these  are  grand,  the  Gebel- 
el-Said  is  sublime.  I walked  along  through  shady  groves  of 
the  down  palm,  which  I here  saw  for  the  first  time,  and  of 
which  Juvenal  speaks.  The  fruit  looks  enticing,  resembling 
a pomegranate,  but  is  said  to  be  poisonous.  Catching  a view 
of  the  distant  furnaces  of  How  or  Havou,  the  Diospolis  Parva 
of  the  ancients,  and  which,  from  its  furnaces,  may  well  be 
called  the  Birmingham  of  Upper  Egypt,  I hurried  back  to  my 
boat  and  breakfast.  The  mimosa  and  acacia  trees  fill  this 
fertile  plain. 

Passing  How,  I landed  again,  our  boat  having  crossed  to 
the  Other  side,  upon  the  Libyan  or  western  bank.  These 


62 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Libyan  mountains,  like  the  Arabian  chain,  make  a circuit  of 
several  miles,  their  gray,  brown  forms  glistening  in  the  sun. 
Between  the  Nile  and  these,  stretches  a semicircular  valley  of 
the  most  beautiful  green,  and  spotted  with  a hundred  Bedouin 
encampments  and  straw  huts,  with  their  flocks  of  camels, 
sheep,  buffaloes,  and  goats.  It  was  all  primitive  as  the  patri- 
archs. ‘These,  my  dragoman  told  me,  were  the  poorer  Bedou- 
ins from  Mecca  or  Hajji,  so  called.  While  we  were  walking 
along,  one  of  them  came  up  with  several  scarabaei  with 
cartouches  on  them,  saying  that  he  had  brought  them  from 
Gournou.  I saw  they  were  newly  manufactured.  Scarcely 
a genuine  antique  was  offered  me  at  Cairo  or  Thebes,  for  in 
both  places  the  German  agents  get  every  thing.  He  armed 
himself  with  an  ugly  weapon  or  pickaxe,  as  if  afraid  of  us. 

Looking  down  the  Nile  here  from  the  high  mound  along 
the  river,  as  it  makes  a turn,  what  a magnificent  view ! a 
combination  of  the  most  lovely  attributes  of  Nature,  and  beau- 
ties of  mountain  and  valley  ; the  Arabian  chain  bounded  the 
vale  in  the  distance,  and  between  it  and  the  Lybian  chain 
flowed,  through  the  most  luxuriant  of  plains,  the  lovely  Nile. 

Thus  O Egypt,  has  the  Almighty  Power,  who  avenges 
nations,  yet  left  upon  thee  the  impress  of  beauty,  as  if  to  say 
that,  though  cursed  in  thy  rulers,  thou  hast  yet  the  marks  of 
external  and  noble  grandeur.  Below  wound  the  wide  river  and 
its  beautiful  waters.  Far  in  the  distance,  grove  upon  grove, 
paradise  upon  paradise  like,  the  view  seemed  to  stretch : the 
town  of  How  was  visible  miles  down  in  the  clear  atmosphere. 

But  what  lofty  castle  is  this  before  us,  jutting  over  the 
river,  or  rather,  assemblage  of  castles  7 It  is  one  which  Isis  or 
Nature  threw  down  as  a challenge  to  all  the  Gothic  piles  in 
the  north  of  Europe ; and  in  every  century  the  Baron, — the 


CHENOBUSCION. 


63 


architect,  has  tried  to  equal  it,  and  failed ; a thousand  piles  of 
man’s  workmanship  could  hardly  equal  in  grandeur  that 
bold  form.  Fortress  of  eternal  rock,  that  over  that  Egyptian 
city  of  Kasr-el-Said,  and  stones  of  the  ancient  city  Cheno- 
buscion,  rearest  thy  lofty  form,  and  haltest  here  in  boldness 
and  grandeur,  which  the  Drachenfels,  or  Hudson’s  cliffs,  or 
Gibraltar,  cannot  excel ; thy  lofty  battlements,  thy  terraces  of 
hundred  surmounting  strata,  thy  clusterings  of  fluted  columns, 
and  points  and  spires,  which  the  glacier  can  scarce  rival ; thy 
pillars,  like  vertehrce,  of  a huge  animal,  thy  broad  eternal  front 
reflecting  its  dark  form  in  the  clear  glassy  mirror  below — 
contrasting  in  grandeur  with  the  puny  forms  of  the  dates  and 
palms,  skirting  the  green  at  thy  base  ; like  man  to  a pyramid  : 
what  are  man’s  attempts,  St.  Peter’s  Church,  the  Pyramids,  or 
St.  Paul’s  pile,  when  beside  thee  ? Slope  away  again  from  the 
river,  wild  mountains  of  Araby.  It  is  a noble  work,  that  last  of 
thine,  Dame  Nature,  and  you  may  well  retire  with  such  modest 
grace. 

I passed  here  a boat  of  two  acquaintances,  and  English 
ladies ; one  of  whom  I had  met  two  winters  since  in  Italy, 
who  had  made  the  tour  of  Syria,  as  English  ladies,  without 
any  protector  but  Lord  Palmerston’s  letters.  One  of  them  I 
had  known  to  be  an  afiectionate  wife  in  Naples,  and  who  had 
given  a large  sum  recently  to  the  new  English  Church  in 
Jerusalem,  for  an  organ.  I fired  a salute,  and  the  echo  of  the 
report  bounded  through  those  mountains,  and  replied  again 
and  again.  I 

On  an  island  we  passed  three  or  four  crocodiles,  the  largest 
I ever  saw.  That  motion  of  theirs — half  awful,  half  dis-  j 
gusting — -their  huge  size,  makes  one  think  of  the  formless  ; 
larva  and  the  theory  of  the  old  Rosecrucians,  creeping  into 


64 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


life,  and  gazing  with  its  dead,  dreamless  eyes.  They  were 
worthy  of  being  gods  of  o\di-reposing  Egypt,  hke  the  sphinx 
or  god  of  whom  it  may  be  said : 

“ Sedebit  eternum  que  sedebit.” 

Further  on,  mountains  still  noble.  A boat  of  two  English 
travellers,  brothers  ; — Messrs.  B. — one  a reverend,  who  had 
been  to  Wady  Haifa,  or  second  Cataract.  In  the  evening 
the  steamboat,  with  Dr.  Lallemand.  passed.  He  afterwards 
told  me  that  he  went  to  Philae  and  back,  and  I believe  was 
only  a fortnight.  He  said  that  he  thought  a sail-boat  must  be 
intolerable.  I could  not  go  in  any  other  with  pleasure. 

The  panorama  of  Nature  of  this  fine  day  is  to  close. 
Never  did  day  close  more  finely.  Such  a sunset ! such  clouds 
and  colors,  before  the  monarch  of  day  leaves  this  clear  atmos- 
phere, as  if  in  regret;  such  ranges  of  golden  hues,  such  a 
liquid  expanse  of  splendor,  and  fretted  gold,  and  gorgeous 
curtain  upon  curtain  of  cloud  rolling  over ; and  scarlet  and 
crimson,  and  all  the  colors.  I would  be  a pantheist  of  old 
Egypt,  and  sun  worshipper,  did  I not  know  that  thou,  O 
God,  my  Father,  made  it  all — 

“ These  things  of  beauty  that  are  a joy  forever 
and  for  these  I thank  thee. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  I stopped  at  Ikhmim,  on 
the  east  bank,  to  explore  the  ruins  of  the  celebrated  Panopolis^ 
spoken  of  by  Yates  and  several  travellers  as  being  the  city  of 
Nero ; but  inquiring  at  the  Christian  Convent  of  the  Austrian 
propaganda^  I found  a most  polite  missionary,  with  whom  I had 
a conversation  in  Italian.  He  assured  me  it  was  not  the  site 
of  Panopolis,  which  was  far  distant ; that  there  was  no  arch 
there,  of  which  Conder  and  Yates  speak  so  positively.  I was 


IKHMIM,  IBOSEIR,  TAHTA. 


55 


most  politely  received,  and  he  pressed  on  me  coffee  and  pipes, 
but  I pleaded  the  fair  wind,  and  got  away.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  Ikhmim,  great-grandson  of  Ham,  grandson 
of  Cush,  and  son  of  Misraim : here  of  old  the  magicians  had 
their  chief  seat. 

The  proper  Panopolis,  the  polite  ecclesiastic  told  me,  was 
near  Soohajz,  and  does  not  agree  fully  with  Wilkinson’s 
account,  who  copies  several  inscriptions  from  it  here. 

The  oppressive  taxes  of  this  town,  I doubt  not,  are  the 
secret  of  this  wretchedness  that  seems  so  irreconcileable  with 
the  fertility  of  the  country ; the  Pachas,  here  the  cruel  task- 
masters, suck  up  every  thing  that  is  produced. 

At  the  Arab  town  of  Iboseir,  we  leave  the  last  town  of  the 
ancient  division  of  Middle  Egypt,  and  enter  the  Thebaid.  It  was 
not  far  from  here  that  two  of  my  acquaintances  from  England 
had  their  boat  capsized  in  a gale,  and  it  sank.  All  their 
clothes  and  stores  were  lost  or  spoiled.  They  were  invited  by 
the  Grovernor  of  Osiout  to  his  house,  where  they  remained  till 
they  refitted  another  boat  and  went  up.  The  danger  is  great 
in  a heavy  wind,  and  the  agitation  of  the  Arabs  ludicrous. 

What  fertility  ! Here  the  Nile  has  conquered  the  desert ; 
and  these  little  struggles  of  Osiris  and  Typhon  you  see  all 
along  up  the  Nile.  How  drew  the  old  Egyptians  their 
mythology  from  nature  ! 

Tahta. — The  fine  wheat  of  the  rich,  open  plain,  is  dwelt 
upon  by  all  travellers.  There  are  large  coal-pits  here,  the  coal 
being  burned  from  the  acacia  ; and  we,  being  marketing  in  coal 
just  now,  put  to  the  shore  to  purchase  some.  I found  here  an 
eminently  trading  people.  They  wished  to  sell  me  sheep,  tur- 
keys, geese,  lambs,  chickens,  &c. ; but  we  had  laid  in  our 
mutton  at  Osiout,  and  pushed  on  to  the  village  of  Gau-el- 


66 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Kehyr^  or  Great  Gaw,  to  visit  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Antaeo- 
polis,  which  I examined  more  fully  on  my  return. 

Among  the  beautiful  islands  that  abound  in  this  fertile 
part  of  the  Nile  we  wind,  enchanted  at  the  increasing  purity 
of  the  air,  rejoicing  in  the  most  perfect  health,  and  thankful 
for  the  Creator’s  gifts  that  are  so  boundlessly  scattered  over 
these  fertile  plains.  The  wheat  crops  and  all  kinds  of  grain, 
beans,  and  peas,  charm  the  eye  and  perfume  the  air.  We 
had  heard  of  the  excellent  bread  of  Millawi,  and  stopped  for 
some. 

Above  Soohajz  we  passed  Menshieh  or  Moonshieh,  which 
has  a Coptic  church,  convent,  walls,  and  fine  groves — 
the  site  of  “ Ptolernais  Hermes,”  or  the  Hermes  of  the  Ptolemies. 
A quay  only  remains.  Its  fine  wheat  and  bread  are  famous. 
Here  we  enter  the  Said,  and  are  rejoiced  at  the  dryness  of  the 
climate,  the  clearness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  charming  beau- 
ties of  this  smiling  land.  The  Romans,  in  the  times  of  the 
Emperors,  sent  their  invalids  here  for  health ; and  no  wonder, 
for  in  all  the  world  there  is  scarce  more  congeniality  of  the 
atmosphere.  Here  no  exciting  volcanic  air,  as  in  the  baths  of 
Baiae  in  Campania,  gives  unnatural  fire  to  the  blood,  but  the 
dry,  clear  atmosphere  gives  you  that  unconsciousness  of  being 
aught  else,  than  a creature  made  to  thank  God  for  his  gifts. 

In  the  morning,  at  sunrise,  I left  my  boat  and  started  for  a 
walk  to  the  mountains.  Passing  through  a plain  rich  in  all 
kinds  of  grain,  I kept  on  up  the  river.  I walked  through 
numberless  Bedouin  encampments,  with  flocks  and  herds  ; 
but,  strange  to  say,  I could  buy  neither  milk,  eggs,  nor  bread, 
which  was  usually  my  excuse  for  a chat. 

The  incidents  with  my  reis  and  crew  would  form  a book 
of  themselves.  We  started  well,  and  for  four  days  it  was  all 


INCIDENTS  WITH  REIS  AND  CREW. 


57 


happiness.  The  first  difficulty  was,  their  refusing  to  drag  with 
a slight  head  wind.  I rose  and  stormed  in  English  and  French, 
which  latter  my  dragoman  alone  understood,  and  made 
them  leap  out  of  the  boat  and  obey  me.  At  Benisooef,  my 
friend  the  Frenchman  Castellan,  by  his  lectures  to  them  when 
he  visited  me,  and  by  threatening  to  inform  all  the  Hakim 
Pachas  up  the  river  by  letter  that  I was  on  my  way,  and  if  I 
was  not  there  at  the  proper  time,  to  have  them  punished — and 
a few  other  influences-^arried  us  swimmingly  up  to  Luxor, 
although  we  had  a head  wind  nearly  all  the  time.  I never 
struck  one  of  them  a blow ; though  twice,  to  frighten  them,  I 
levelled  my  pistol  at  the  heads  of  one  or  two  of  them,  and  used 
to  practise  putting  a ball  through  an  orange,  and  always  pre- 
tended to  have  a most  violent  temper,  which  really  made 
them  afraid  that,  in  a fit  of  passion,  I would  shoot  one  of 
them.  The  fear  that  one  has  in  starting  alone  from  a town 
in  the  extreme  part  of  the  Nile,  entirely  at  their  mercy,  soon 
wore  off,  and  I was  soon  as  much  at  home  with  them  as  in 
my  father’s  house.  It  was  ever  “backsheesh”  at  night,  when 
the  boat  stopped  ; whenever  my  dragoman  went  ashore  ; and 
I always  gave  them  a little.  An  occasional  glass  of  wine  to 
the  reis  and  steersman,  a little  brandy  to  them  all,  cigars 
almost  daily,  for  I had  five  or  six  boxes  not  fit  to  smoke,  al- 
ways conciliated  them.  Sometimes  I would  order  coffee  to  all 
around ; and  sometimes,  when  they  were  out  of  bread,  I gave 
them  all  my  own  store  rather  than  have  them  stop.  It  re- 
quired a great  deal  of  management,  which  was  constant  occu 
pation  and  amusement.  After  five  or  six  days,  they  were 
down  on  me  for  a harouf^  or  mutton,  and  the  promise  of  a 
sheep  at  Osiout  quieted  them : now  I would  give  them  one  or 

Z* 


58 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


two  turkeys,  and  nothing  would  give  me  more  pleasure  than 
“Howaga  thayeeb.” 

1 found  out  my  dragoman  early  and  drew  the  purse  strings 
upon  him,  giving  him  only  a himdred  piastres — one  pound  at 
a time.  The  prospect  of  getting  the  joh  of  being  my  drago- 
man through  Syria,  kept  him  from  violence  and  too  open  fraud. 
He  had  no  influence  with  the  crew,  and  all  the  storming  ! was 
forced  to  do  myself ; and  he  was  only  fit  to  set  my  table,  and  lie 
down  and  tell  me  stories  about  Damascus,  and  Aleppo,  and 
Bagdad.  He  was  harmless  generally  and  sometimes  provoking. 
I once  threatened  to  pitch  him  into  the  Nile,  and  once  came 
very  near  thrashing  him.  In  my  excursions  I used  to  have 
one  of  the  Arabs  for  a companion,  with  whom  I could  talk  by 
this  time  very  well,  or  my  Syrian  Turk  Bokra,  who  was  a tall 
man,  and  had  he  been  dragoman,  and  the  other  the  cook,  I 
should  have  much  preferred  it.  At  most  of  the  towns  up  the 
river  where  the  boat  lay,  there  was  usually  a guard,  who 
was  paid.  At  Luxor,  while  absent  one  night  on  an  excursion, 
some  of  my  best  clothing  was  stolen.  The  next  morning  I 
refused  to  pay  the  guard,  who  had  done  his  business  so  badly. 
I finally  flung  him  a piastre,  and  he  joined  my  dragoman  in 
some  words  in  Arabic,  which  were  not  very  complimentary. 
These  little  affairs  were  but  momentary,  and  only  relieved 
the  monotony  that  I began  to  feel. 

Girgeh. — How  prettily  this  town  looks.  Its  tall  minarets  ; 
its  houses  with  pigeon  tops,  a species  of  architectme  which 
strikes  you  a few  villages  below.  Its  thick  grove  behind,  was 
beautiful ; it  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt,  and  a 
very  large  town.  There  is  a governor  here  ; thousands  of 
Turks  strutting  through  the  town ; and  some  important-looking 
dignitaries,  Greek  Albanians.  The  stores  have  the  best  articles 


ST.  GEORGE. 


59 


of  Upper  Egypt  exposed  for  sale.  Here  we  saw  the  boat  of  a 
rich  Turk  and  his  gayly-dressed  wife.  The  women  here  are 
good-looking,  and  their  heads  ornamented  with  coins ; num- 
bers of  soldiers  are  to  be  seen  in  the  streets. 

We  left  Girgeh  for  a ride  to  Abydos.  Girgeh  was  named 
after  St.  George,  patron  saint  of  the  Egyptians,  who  is  also  the 
watchword  of  England,  and  the  legend  was  obtained  by  one 
of  her  knights  at  Bibbeh,  below  Benisooef,  where  his  memory 
is  transformed  into  that  of  a Moslem  saint,  and  honors  are  paid 
as  such  to  his  memory — dragon  and  all. 


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PART  II. 


PBOVINCE  OF  THE  THEBAID,  IN  THE  ANCIENT 
DIVISION  OF  UPPER  EGYPT. 




CHAPTER  I. 

ABYDOS. 

Abydos  or  This,  How,  Dendera,  Cooft  or  Coptos,  Coos, 
Luxor,  Karnac,  Gournou,  Medinah  Tabou,  Thebes,  Biban  el 
Memlook,  A1  Asassif,  Hermonthis,  Esne,  Edfou,  Eilythyas, 
Gebel  Luxor,  and  quarries  of  Hadjar  Silsillis,  Koom  Ombos, 
Assouan,  Philae. — Among  the  ancient  Egyptians  these  were  the 
principal  sites.  But  commencing  with  the  earliest  days  of 
Egypt’s  splendor,  we  find  three  great  sites  of  empire,  Abydos 
or  the  ancient  This^  situated  sixty  miles  below  Thebes,  (built 
a few  centuries  from  the  date  of  the  pyramids  and  Memphis,) 
and  which  we  are  now  approaching.  It  had  sixteen  sovereigns 
reigning  while  Cheops  built  the  first  pyramid.  Over  this  pro- 
vince of  Tanis,  which  extended  from  where  we  are  to  Dongola, 
beyond  the  second  cataract,  ruled  the  predecessors  of  Rameses 
the  Great,  whose  names  are  written  in  the  tablet  of  Abydos.  Of 
their  structures,  their  surmounting  capitals  built  as  long  before 
Rameses  as  the  apostles  of  Christ  were  anterior  to  us,  of  Aby- 


62 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


dosj  of  Memphis,  nought  remains.  Thebes  was  then  an  un- 
settled plain.  The  superstructures  of  Rameses  the  Great,  and 
Osiren  at  Abydos,  at  Aboosimhoul,  at  Thebes,  built  upon  these, 
still  give  an  idea  of  the  glory  of  Egypt  throughout  the  valley 
of  the  Nile.  A pyramid  of  Cheops  or  his  contemporaries,  a 
granite  sanctuary  * of  Ositarsen,  or  a tomb  cut  in  his  time,t  and 
such  solitary  records  as  the  tablet  of  Abydos,  alone  attest  their 
existence  or  their  history.  Like  Babylon,  like  Babel,  like  the 
localities  of  young  earth,  their  sites  are  the  ruins  of  their  em- 
pires, and  we  look  at  them  alone  through  the  dim  glass  of 
their  successors  of  thirty  centuries  ago — to  whom  they  were 
yet,  by  ages  and  siecles,  an  ancient  race. 

While  at  Abydos  I could  not  but  rehearse  the  ages  that 
had  passed  in  Egypt’s  earlier  time  over  that  spot.  The 
ancient  This,  it  alone  of  all  Egypt,  save  Memphis,  stood  as  the 
locality  of  the  first  founders  of  Egypt.  We  do  not  conceive  it 
necessary  to  go  to  Wady  Haifa  with  Miss  Martineau,  and  look 
over  into  Dongola  to  see  this.  We  can  contemplate  from  this, 
as  a 2^oi7it  de  depart^  the  dynasties  of  Egypt.  Here  before  the 
Augustine  age  of  Rameses,  and  his  father  Osiren,  (who  built 
these  kingly  halls,)  lived  the  earlier  dynasties,  who  were  as 
much  anterior,  says  Bunsen,  to  Rameses  or  Sesostris,  as 
Augustus  was  to  our  era.  The  excavations  of  Messrs.  Salt 
and  Bankes  have  thrown  true  light  upon  the  history  of 
Egypt;  the  tablet  of  Abydos  contained  the  name  of  Sesos- 
tris as  its  last  name,  and  is  the  grand  regulating  touchstone — 
the  Doomsday  Book  of  Egyptian  Chronology.  I ran  over  in 
my  mind  the  history  of  this  age  before  Abraham  came  into 
Egypt ; of  those  who  built  here  before  the  building  of  the 
pyramids,  and  who  lived  here  at  This,  upon  whose  foundations 


* Karnac. 


t Beni  Hassan. 


ABYDOS  AND  ANCIENT  EGYPT. 


63 


Rameses  built,  as  the  tower  of  London  is  built  upon  Caesar’s 
foundations.  ^^Here  once  stood  a flourishing  empire  1”  From 
here  what  civilization  had  its  rise  ! I once  thought  the  age  of 
Sesostris  ancient ; how  ancient  Herodotus  thought  it,  but  how 
modern  it  seems ; what  a Periclean  advance  upon  his  prede- 
cessors, standing  here  upon  the  ruins  of  This.  He  built  here ; 
and  when  you  creep  into  the  inner  parts  of  these  old  temples, 
and  the  palace  where  his  statue  was  found — into  places  so  filled 
that  you  cannot  enter,  where  Miss  Martineau  said  she  sent  in 
the  Arabs  to  count  the  alabaster  columns ; when  you  look  at 
these  walls,  covered  with  sand,  you  sigh,  that  Rameses  should 
have  looked  upon  the  ruins  of  his  predecessors  as  we  look 
upon  his.  The  distinctness  of  the  bas-reliefs  and  figures  is 
such,  and  the  paintings  so  beautiful  and  so  delicately  exe- 
cuted, that  you  would  fancy  you  were  in  Pompeii,  or  Hercu- 
laneum, or  some  remains  of  an  era  of  eighteen  centuries, 
instead  of  one  of  three  thousand  years. 

Here  doubtless  Menes,  or  his  successors  of  the  first  and 
second  dynasty,  established  their  seat  as  the  capital  of  Upper 
Egypt,  as  they  settled  first  at  Memphis,  and  thence  proceeded 
up  the  Nile,  (for,  ethnologically  and  historically,  the  fable  of 
Meroe  and  the  descent  has  been  exploded.)  Five  thousand 
five  hundred  years  ago,  (according  to  Bunsen’s  questionable 
chronology,)  Menes  turned  the  course  of  the  river  Nile,  making 
the  change  so  spoken  of. 

Abydos  was  on  the  road  to  the  Great  Oasis  ; Ethiopia  had 
early  been  settled,  and  hence  here  This  was  the  favorite  site 
by  which  it  attained  its  grandeur.  The  other  remains  at 
Abydos  are  only  some  mounds  and  rubbish ; and,  save  these 
remains  of  the  palace,  there  is  nothing.  But  a locality  older 
than  the  pyramids — a locality  older  than  any  site  save  Mem- 


64 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


phis — how  it  grows  on  one  ! Let  us  turn  to  Miss  Martineau’s 
work  for  the  recapitulation  of  the  history.  Abydos,  like 
Luxor,  and  Gournou,  part  of  Karnac,  and  most  of  Thebes, 
was  built  by  Rameses,  and  his  father  Osiren,  who  has  dedi- 
cated the  temple  to  Osiris ; and  the  whole  area  is  sacred  to 
him.  But  where  were  the  Hebrews  while  Rameses  was 
building  here  ? Joshua*  was  vanquishing  those  nations  of  Pal- 
estine and  Syria  who  were  opposed  to  the  Jews.  Of  these  cir- 
cumstances there  can  be  no  doubt.  The  tablet  of  Abydost  of 
the  predecessors  of  Sesostris  agrees  perfectly  with  all  the 
monuments  in  the  orders  of  reigns  and  dates,  which  is  more 
than  can  be  said  of  the  only  other  royal  story  of  Egypt  of 
Manetho,  and  is  in  accordance  with  the  temples.  How  unfor- 
tunate for  the  early  tales  of  Egypt,  that  the  beginning  is 
broken  away.  What  might  it  not  teach  us  of  the  patriarchs 
and  earlier  prophets  ? But  we  turn  away  from  this  interesting 
place,  from  its  dust-covered  mounds,  its  sand-covered  palace, 
and  its  flapping  bats.  Why  does  not  Mohammed  Ali  clear 
this  out  as  he  has  so  well  done  Dendera  and  Esne  'I  How  the 
sandstone  roof  shines  in  the  sun,  as  if  in  hope  of  the  memory 
of  Rameses  being  better  represented.  We  leave  the  clear 
sculptures  and  paintings  with  regret,  among  which  was  the  boat 
of  which  Miss  Martineau  speaks.  The  ride  from  the  temple 
to  Balliani  is  like  the  ride  from  Girgeh  to  Abydos.  The  sweet 
perfume  of  the  fields,  the  bright  sun,  the  happy  and  indus- 
trious people  going  to  and  returning  from  the  fair  fields,  crops 
of  vetches,  wheat,  barley,  lentils,  flax,  the  Egyptian  bean  and 
sugar-cane,  enchanted  me  the  whole  way.  Miss  Martineau, 
St.  John,  and  all  writers,  have  dwelt  on  the  beauty  of  this 


Champollion. 


t Miss  Martineau. 


LIFE  ON  THE  NILE. 


65 


plain.  Farewell  to  thee,  Abydos  ! well  art  thou  called  Arabat 
el  Matfoun  (Arabat  beneath  the  sands). 

On  our  return  from  Abydos  I met  my  boat  at  Balliani  and 
there  being  a settlement  of  the  Alni6  here,  I was  forced  to  see  ] 
again  this  exhibition  as  a pastime,  while  waiting  for  my  boat.  ' 
I stopped  here  both  going  up  and  coming  down.  It  is  a small 
place  with  only  one  or  two  mosques. 

Rouda^  and  a sugar  manufactory. — Passing  this  place 
we  stopped  a moment.  Piles  of  sugar-cane  were  lying  upon 
the  shore  and  guarded  by  Arab  soldiers.  It  had  been  brought 
here  by  the  boats,  and  we  could  not  purchase  one  stick  for 
love  or  money.  In  the  sugar  manufactory  bones  are  used  to 
heat  the  boilers,  and  rags  and  papyri,  and  the  remains  of 
Egypt’s  necropolis. 

So  we  go ; manufactories  and  steam  engines  on  the  site  of 
tae  towns  of  Rameses,  and  the  Setorsasens.  Any  thing  but 
ranroad  and  steamboat  on  the  beautiful  old  Nile. 

Such  IS  our  life  on  the  Nile.  A strange,  rare  luxury  it  is, 
unlike  any  thing  else  in  the  world.  Now  you  can  take  your 
gun  and  go  on  shore,  and  though  the  middle  of  January,  walk 
through  a rich  plantation  of  dourra  or  the  bearded  wheat, 
or  maize,  or  some  fragrant  field  of  the  plenteous  land.  A 
mound  or  dike  separates  you  from  the  view  ; you  jump  over 
it,  and  find  yourself  in  the  town  of  some  ferocious  dogs  or 
hospitable  Bedouin.  Now  you  are  tired  and  wander  back  to 
your  boat,  popping  over  a few  birds  to  save  your  reputation. 
Now  you  sail  by  a mountain  filled  with  the  caves  of  anchor- 
ite Eremites.  Now  you  go  ashore  at  a town  where  there  is  a 
market  and  an  assemblage  of  Gwawazie.  Now  an  ancient 
Egyptian  structure  of  the  Pharaohs.  Now  a pile  of  the 
Romans.  Now  you  sketch  the  picturesque  mountains.  Now 

E 


66 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


you  study  the  formation  of  the  strata.  Now  ’tis  a pipe.  Now 
coffee.  Now  a tale  from  your  dragoman.  Now  a song  from 
your  Arabs.  Now  a boat  passes  laden  with  pottery  from  Geneh. 
Now  another  with  slaves  from  Darfour.  Now  one  with  the 
Sultan’s  flag,  and  the  wives  of  some  Turk.  Now  a crowd  of 
trading  Arabs,  whom  our  boatmen  hail  and  try  to  excel  in 
blackguardism,  in  Arab  style.  Now  groves  of  palm  alone  to 
gaze  at.  Now  picturesque  landscape  of  acacia  groves,  villages 
with  their  eternal  dove-cotes,  and  the  date-tree,  all  along  the 
shore,  ever  having  under  them  a clay-built  village  or  Belled^ 
and  ever  beautiful.  Now  your  boatman  cries,  Timseach^  “ a 
crocodile,”  and  has  his  spear  ready  or  your  gun,  hut  is  always 
too  late.  I never  could  shoot  one,  but  always  fancied,  as  does 
every  one,  “ that  1 hit  himP  The  dryness  of  the  atmosphere 
is  a great  peculiarity.  Meat  of  a sheep  that  I gave  my  boat- 
men at  Osiout  has  hung  nearly  a week  in  the  open  sun  and 
air  and  not  spoiled,  though  it  is  as  warm  as  summer. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Visit  to  the  temple  of  Dendera. — The  walk  through  the  doom-palm  Villages. — 
Crossing  the  river. — First  sight  of  temple. — Rubbish. — Ruins. — The  temple. — 
The  effect  of  the  front. — Columns. — Countenance  of  Athor  the  Egyptian 
Venus. — The  idea  of  the  temple. — The  ruined  temple. — Grand  temple. — Ty- 
phonium. — Sculptures  of  the  gods. — Sunset  from  the  temple. — Evening  in  the 
temple. — The  supper. — The  Bedouin  camp. — The  bivouac. — The  fires. — 
The  watch-dog. — Canopus  and  the  southern  cross. — Mussulman  virtues. — 
The  women. — The  morning. — The  Repast. — Second  visit  to  Dendera. — The 
smaller  temple  posterior. — Historical  part  of  the  temple. — Sculpture  of  Cleo- 
patra and  the  Ptolemies,  Alexander,  &c. — View  from  the  mound. 

After  landing  at  Dishna,  about  four  leagues  south  of  Geneh, 
I started  on  a very  bad  donkey,  with  one  of  the  boatmen,  to 
visit  the  temple  of  Dendera.  After  an  hour  I sent  back  the 
donkey,  and  proceeded  on  foot  through  the  delightful  groves 
of  doom  palms,  of  which  Juvenal  speaks  in  his  satires. 
About  two  hours  before  sunset,  we  crossed  the  river  in  a ferry- 
boat, and  after  walking  an  hour,  beheld  on  a distant  mound 
of  rubbish,  the  far-famed  temple  of  Dendera.  Another  hour’s 
walk  carried  us  through  fields  of  barley,  beans,  vetches,  and 
lentils,  and  over  the  mounds  of  rubbish  which  completely 
surrounded  and  partly  concealed  the  temple.  But  what  an 
awful  feeling  of  grandeur  struck  upon  me,  when,  without  wait- 
ing to  go  round  through  the  portico,  I bounded  down  the  wall 
and  stood  before  the  striking  fabric.  There  on  the  ceiling  move 


/ 


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VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


along  the  heroes  and  gods,  the  priests  and  kings,  the  great 
and  good  and  powerful  of  Egyptian  mythology  and  story. 
There  are  the  colors  that  have  stood  the  storms  of  eighteen 
centuries,  and  along  the  better  protected  roof,  the  winged 
globes  are  repeated,  gliding  into  one  another,  surrounded  by 
stars,  where  the  blue  is  so  fresh  that  I half  imagined  myself  in 
the  Senate  chamber,  in  the  capitol  of  my  own  land.  Above 
the  capitals,  Isis,  in  the  character  of  Diana,  receives  offerings 
of  the  priests.  Further  on,  in  the  next  entrance,  she  sur- 
mounts the  beautiful  capitals.  This  is  more  indistinct  than  the 
pronaosj  and  is  probably  the  ancient  Egyptian  temple  erected 
to  Athor ; the  pronaos  having  been  erected  afterwards  and  con- 
secrated to  the  Roman  Venus,  in  a.  d.  65,  by  Tiberius  Caesar. 
I will  not  describe  the  several  rooms  through  which  I passed, 
one  opening  upon  another  in  more  or  less  distinctness,  the 
sanctuary  and  side  chambers,  nor  that  passage  seemingly  into 
the  ground,  where  after  crawling  along  with  a light,  and  driv- 
ing away  the  bats,  I saw  the  most  distinct  sculptures  of  the 
whole  temple,  the  sweet  face  of  Isis,  and  the  wonderful  artis- 
tical  beauty  in  the  countenances  of  the  priestesses,  following 
me  in  my  dreams  days  after ; nor  the  staircases,  the  proces- 
sion of  priests,  the  feasts,  the  beautiful  forms  of  Egypt  reclin- 
ing on  their  delightful  couches,  the  heroes  in  their  sacred 
boats,  the  zodiacs  above,  and  the  place  of  the  statue  below. 
All  these  are  for  the  guide  books. 

But  I pass  to  consider  the  philosophical  idea  of  the  whole, 
the  purpose  for  which  the  temple  was  erected.  Athor  has 
been  defined  by  St.  John  as  that  principle  in  Nature  by  which 
things  naturally  assimilated  to  each  other  are  brought  together 
for  the  production  of  new  and  beautiful  forms. 

This  principle,  the  generative  power  of  Nature,  was  a 


. ATHOR. 


69 


beautiful  and  divine  goddess  with  the  ancient  Egyptians.  As 
the  fount  of  all  creation  and  beauty,  Athor  was  worshipped. 
That  power  which  produced  and  continues  the  human  race, 
the  mystery  of  conception  and  birth  growing  out  of  beauty 
and  love  in  our  race,  and  with  which  the  animals  are  like  us 
endowed ; which  in  the  vegetable  creation,  as  the  seed  decays, 
and  the  'pollen  and  anther  are  brought  together,  produce  the 
new  germ : this  creative  power  of  Nature  was  Athor.  It  was  a 
sweet  woman  ; a beautiful  form — a woman  and  mother  ! To 
this  power  was  the  temple  erected — beauty,  love,  creation  ! 

Her  face — the  sweet  form  of  a woman,  in  which  the  Egyp- 
I tians  embodied  that  idea,  surmounts  the  capital.  The  Roman, 
when  he  came,  welcomed  the  idea,  and  associated  it  with  his 
goddess,  who  was  worshipped  as  the  same  power ; he  conse- 
crated it  to  his  Yenus  ; though  a less  philosophical  idea,  and 
more  material  attributes,  belonged,  to  his  divinity.  He  placed 
the  Roman  coitfure  on  the  Egyptian  head-dress,  which  deforms 
it  still.  From  her  (Athor’s)  bosom  too  issues  the  world ; and 
before  your  eyes,  in  distinct  sculptures,  glide  the  universe,  the 
heroes,  the  processions  of  sacred  boats,  the  priests  and  gods. 
On  they  move,  and  your  eye  follows  them — the  gods  of  the 
olden  time.  Osiris,  covered  with  his  plumed  helmet;  Isis, 
smiling  with  her  sweet  face,  and  budding  form ; Horus, 
the  son  of  the  beautiful  heroic  wedlock.  Further  on,  the 
spirit  of  the  creative  power  is  exhibited ; love  and  pleasure 
reign,  musical  processions,  festivals,  otferings  and  sacrifices  to 
the  gods ; priests  carrying  fruits  and  flowers  ; Isis,  Osiris, 
Horus,  receiving  gifts ; monarchs  returning  from  victories  with 
I the  rich  spoils  of  time,  speaking  their  names  in  cartouches  in 
^ the  living  stone  ; and  with  whom  the  Ptolomies,  the  Cleo- 
I patras,  the  Caesars,  are  proud  to  mingle  their  own. 


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VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Now  comes  birth.  Isis,  or  Nature,  in  her  many  attributes 
and  presiding  powers,  here  appears  in  the  character  of  nurse, 
or  the  Lucinian  Diana.  Here,  with  the  infant  in  her  arms, 
she  receives  offerings  from  the  priests : this  is  repeated  above 
the  p?'07iaos,  above  the  facade,  full  in  all  the  capitals.  Go 
where  you  will,  it  is  some  modification  of  the  same  idea. 

In  reviewing  the  effect  of  the  temple,  I was  struck  with 
one  conviction — the^superiority  of  the  ideas  of  divinity  among 
the  Egyptians  to  all  the  other  so-called  heathen  nations. 
"Whether,  degenerating  directly  from  the  patriarchs  and  the 
true  God,  they  were  less  sunken  in  their  ideas  than  the  Greeks 
and  Romans,  certain  it  is  that  their  worship  was  higher.  It  is 
not  the  worship  of  mere  sensual  pleasure — it  is  the  sacred 
idea  of  love,  generation,  and  birth  combined.  The  rites  were 
not  such  as  required  the  prostitution  of  virgins  as  at  Ephesus, 
in  Greece,  at  the  temples  of  Venus  ; it  is  the  sacred  institution 
of  wedlock — not  Venus  presiding  over  awful  profane  pollu- 
tions. No  ! it  is  Isis  in  the  character  of  chaste  Diana.  The 
sweet  face  of  Athor  smiles  upon  you,  not  with  wanton  temp- 
tation, but  with  half-maternal  benignity.  The  artistical  power 
in  the  female  statues  is  not  displaying  the  charms  of  the  cour- 
tezan. Nowhere  is  the  smile  of  Isis  that  of  the  harlot : it  is 
all  that  makes  marriage  sacred.  They  might  have  written 
above, 

‘To  Beauty,  Love  and  Wedlock,  Creation,  and  Birth. 

I read  several  hieroglyphics,  among  which  I noticed  that 
the  names  of  Cleopatra,  and  her  son  Csesarion,  were  the  latest. 
I noticed  also  the  names  of  Antoninus  Pius,  Trajan,  and  several 
other  Roman  Emperors.  In  searching  for  the  name  of 


DENDERA. 


71 


AOTKRTRj  autocrator^  Emperor,  indicating  the  name  of 
Claudius^  or  iVero,  (who  are  designated  on  all  the  Egyptian 
medals  thus,)  and  which  Le  Lorrain  had  left  when  he  de- 
tached the  zodiac,  and  carried  it  to  Paris,  I could  see  that 
some  one  [Frenchman  in  all  probability)  had  endeavored 
to  deface  the  remaining  part.  I had  a clear  idea  of  the  zodiac 
in  Paris,  which  I had  often  been  to  the  Bibliotheque  to 
examine,  and  satisfied  myself  that  the  deception  was  exactly 
what  Champollion  describes  in  “Fourier  and  Napoleon.”  But 
who  can  deface  the  marks  of  Roman  sway  in  the  entire 
edifice  ? the  ceiling  of  the  planisphere,  and  names,  surnames, 
cartouches^  titles,  symbols  of  Tiberius,  Claudius,  Nero,  and 
Domitian.* 

The  moon  was  far  up  when  I came  out  of  the  temple  of 
Dendera.  The  boatman  advised  me  to  go  to  the  Sheikh-e- 
Belled  at  Dendera,  as  the  people  in  the  villages  were  reckless, 
and  the  modern  town  had  a very  bad  reputation.  We  walked 
up  the  river  hank  two  miles,  until,  reaching  a wide  plain,  we 
came  among  numerous  flocks  of  Bedouins,  and  one  noble- 
looking old  man  of  one  party  attracted  me  to  the  fire  they 
were  sitting  around.  A thought  struck  me  to  pass  the  night 
there,  and  going  among  them,  I claimed  their  hospitality.  As 
my  approach  aroused  them,  one  seized  a pickaxe  sort  of 
weapon ; but  my  manner  instantly  assured  him  that  I was  a 
harmless  intruder.  Summoning  my  best  Arabic,  I went  up 
and  saluted  the  old  man  and  his  four  or  five  sons,  whose 
wives  were  sitting  in  the  tents  around,  and  whose  sons’  sons  (for 
they  all  had  a family  likeness)  were  sitting  with  him  around 
the  fire.  I represented  myself  a hadgi  or  wandering  pilgrim, 
exploring  the  hirhehs  or  temples,  and  that  I was  poor,  and 


* See  Appendix,  Note  A, 


72 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


begged  to  stay  there  for  the  night.  The  green  grass  and  a 
mat,  before  which  a bulwark  of  woven  straw  was  placed, 
seemed  the  only  chance  for  a bed,  as  I knew  I ought  not  to 
think  of  looking  near  the  women  and  their  tent,  and  I was  de^ 
termined  to  trust  to  their  disposal  of  me.  He  seerrced  to  thank 
Allah  for  the  opportunity  of  performing  one  of  the  Mohamme- 
dan rites  of  hospitality,  and  I could  now  seejhat  the  women 
in  the  tent  were  busy  making  bread,  and  the  elder  sons,  the 
husbands,  milking  the  cows,  preparing  coffee,  <fec.  I had 
meanwhile  been  given  the  best  place  on  the  mat,  and  the  old 
patriarch  was  doing  his  best  to  look  what  he  could  not  say. 
Luckily,  I had  Marcel’s  vulgar  Arabic  dictionary  in  my  pock- 
et, and  we  had  an  interesting  conversation.  I could  not  but 
think,  as  I saw  his  venerable  hairs,  his  noble  brow,  and  his 
numerous  posterity,  and  their  camels,  cows,  sheep,  goats, 
calves,  (fcc.,  two  hundred  in  number,  I should  say, — 
of  Abraham  sitting  at  the  tent  at  the  Cool  of  day.  I had 
seen  one  of  them  praying,  and  his  silent,  real  devotion, 
unlike  the  affected  manner  of  the  displaying  Moslems  I had 
usually  seen,  would  have  done  credit  to  the  most  devout 
Christian.  I knew  they  had  Abraham  and  the  prophets,  and 
I ventured  to  remark  to  him  that  “ Abraham  once  entertained 
strangers,  and  had  entertained  angels  unawares  ; and,  though 
he  might  be  pretty  free  of  the  honor  of  having  an  angel  in 
his  presence  now,  that  I still  trusted  God  would  reward  his 
hospitality  as  he  did  the  patriarch.”  He  seemed  to  be  highly 
pleased  at  the  flattering  comparison  I had  made  of  him  to  the 
“father  of  the  faithful,”  laughed  at  my  conceit  about  the 
angel,  and  swallowed  some  other  stories  of  his  resemblance  to 
the  old  Chaldean  Bedouin. 

I should  have  thought  of  my  own  romantic  position  in  the 


TEMPLE  OF  EDFOU. 


# ^ 


m 


•Ai 


3<’L" 


J 


I 


BEDOUIN  BIVOUAC. 


73 


camp  of  a Bedouin,  and  prospect  of  a blanket  of  those  bright 
stars  that  were  glittering  above  me,  had  not  the  dignity  of  the 
old  Bedouin ; the  absence  of  staring  among  the  women ; the 
silent  condppt  of  all  the  men  ; their  respect  to  their  father  ; their 
politeness  and  delicacy  to  me ; the  refreshing  repast  of  milk 
and  eggs  and  warm  bread  they  set  before  me  ; their  apology, 
that  it  was  all  they  had  ; their  breeding,  that  would  have 
adorned  the  table  of  a pacha ; their  quiet,  restrained  mirth  at 
my  failing  with  my  fingers  in  getting  the  warm  bread  and 
eggs  into  my  mouth  without  crumbling  them ; their  fragrant 
Mocha  cotfee,  and  sweet  perfume  of  their  Syrian  tobacco ; 
their  noble  forms ; their  dignified  and  healthy  frames ; their 
tall  height ; their  bronzed  color ; the  tout  ensemble  of  the 
scene, — so  carried  me  away  that  I forgot  myself  Then  I had 
come  among  them  pretending  to  be  poor  and  without  a para, 
though  I had  money  secreted  in  my  breast ; pretending  to  be 
defenceless,  though  I had  a pocket  pistol ; of  a difierent  reli- 
gion, and  yet,  though  late  in  the  evening,  they  unhesitatingly 
cook  me  supper  of  their  best,  give  me  their  best  mat,  and 
cover  me  with  their  best  cloak,  thanking  God  in  their  prayers 
for  the  opportunity  to  exhibit  one  of  their  sacred  laws  of  hos- 
pitality. And  when,  during  the  whole  night,  after  I had  laid 
down  and  pretended  to  be  asleep,  I found  one  keeping  guard 
all  night,  and  renewing  the  fire  now  and  then,  driving  the 
mosquitoes  away  from  me,  and  doing  all  he  could  for  my 
comfort, — I could  not  but  feel,  as  I gazed  up  at  the  bright 
Canopus  and  the  constellations  that  brighten  only  this  clime 
that  borders  on  the  tropics,  that  God  had  made  men  to  live 
thus ; and  the  simple  devotion  of  these  noble  Bedouins,  their 
reverence  for  the  patriarchs,  their  virtue,  was  as  sweet  an 
incense  to  the  God  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob,  as  the 


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VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


noblest  chant  that  ever  echoed  through  Westminster  Abbey, 
though  Handel  or  Beethoven  were  leaders — as  the  most  gor- 
geous display  in  St.  Peter’s — the  most  favorite  Christmas  ser- 
vice in  Trinity.  Here,  as  I gazed  at  the  bright  stars,  I fancied 
myself  a young  Chaldean  in  the  tent  of  the  sons  of  Shem,  or 
a Sabean  of  that  Ethiopia  which  is  only  a step  from  me  now. 
It  is  so  sweet  an  oblivion  of  all  past — of  every  thing  but  God, 
patriarchs,  and  young  creation  ! The  silent  flocks  are  sleep- 
ing under  the  bright  moon ; the  soft  air  is  without  a drop  of 
moisture  ; the  camels  are  around  ; the  Arabs,  wrapped  in  their 
burnooses,  sleeping ; the  moon  shining  in  the  face  of  the  old 
Sheikh,  which,  with  his  long,  spotless,  majestic  beard,  was 
turned  towards  me  ; and  I,  stranger  from  a land  thousands  of 
miles  away,  whose  white,  pale  face  seemed  like  linen  among 
their  bronzed  countenances,  was  falling  into  as  sweet  a slum- 
ber as,  when  a boy,  I did  after  closing  the  window  from  a 
moonlight  gaze  at  my  own  native  hills.  I thought  of  another 
wanderer,  whom  I have  followed  through  the  bright  iGgean, 
on  the  shores  of  Spain,  in  Italy,  through  the  Alps  and  the 
Pthine  ; and  I have  seen  the  first  part  of  the  dream : 

“ the  gentle  hill 

Green,  and  of  a mild  declivity  ” — 

at  Annesley  Hall,  near  Newstead  Abbey,  and  now  I was  like 
him — a boy  sprung  to  manhood : 

■ “ In  the  wilds  of  fiery  climes  had  made  himself  a home, 

And  his  soul  drank  their  sunbeams  ; 

* * * by  his  sleeping  side 

Stood  camels  grazing,  and  some  goodly  steeds. 

And  a man  clad  in  a flowing  garb,  did  watch  the  while, 

While  many  of  his  tribe  slumbered  round  ; 


DENDERA. 


75 


And  they  were  canopied  by  the  blue  sky, 

So  cloudless,  clear,  and  purely  beautiful. 

That  God  alone  was  to  be  seen  in  heaven.” 

Next  morning  I astonished  the  Arab  by  giving  him  all  the 
money  I had  and  several  of  my  articles,  gloves,  handkerchief, 
&c.  He  accompanied  me  again  to  the  temple,  and  we  explored 
some  other  passages.  I read  several  other  records  not  copied 
by  either  Champollion,  Salt,  or  Wilkinson.  The  Arabs 
followed  me,  blessing  me.  Two  hours  after  we  arrived  at  the 
river  and  nearly  opposite  Gheneh.  I now  saw  my  boat  on  the 
opposite  side,  and  after  shouting  some  time  we  brought  it  over, 
and  I prepared  myself  by  a warm  bath,  a delightful  slumber, 
a breakfast,  and  was  ready  for  the  modern  town  of  Gheneh — 
such  a contrast  to  ancient,  solitary  Dendera.  The  mind  can 
never  be  too  clear  to  appreciate  the  transitions  of  ages  and 
localities  on  this  stream. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Gheneh  and  its  bazaar. — Abyssinians. — Turco-English  Consul. — Dr.  Cuni. 

“ Sabean  odors  from  the  spicy  shore 
Of  Araby  the  blest” 

Milton. 

Landing  at  Gheneh  I walked  through  the  bazaar ; a crowd  of 
the  Red  Sea  boatmen  were  there  from  the  port  of  Kosseir,  with 
which  this  is  connected,  and  through  which  English  pass  to 
and  from  India,  and  Arabs  of  Arabia  have  kept  up  their  inter- 
course with  the  Nile.  Many  Arabs,  hundreds  of  the  Hajji 
pilgrims  returning  from  and  going  to  Mecca,  here  an  Italian 
hakinij  there  a Jew  or  Greek,  who  had  lost  himself  in  this 
obscure  land,  and  above  all  the  numerous  Abyssinian  men  and 
women  (who  may  be  seen  hereabout  in  perfection)  interested 
me.  I was  passing  through  a street  which  seemed  made  up 
of  the  Abyssinian  Gwawazie  or  dancing  girls,  and  a crowd  of 
Turks  were  collected  before  a coffee-house,  where  a pretty  one 
was  dancing  ; I was  invited  by  several  to  make  the  usual  con- 
tribution of  fifty  or  one  hundred  piastres,  and  see  an  exclusive 
performance,  but  I hurried  back  to  my  boat  and  started  on. 

Gheneh  is  a great  place  for  the  manufacturing  of  pipes,  and 
some  of  the  finest  clay-pipes  I ever  saw  were  for  sale  at  the 
rate  of  two  for  a penny.  Here  you  may  buy  the  perfumes 
and  gems  of  rich  Arabia,  and  many  rare  articles  of  India  and 


GHENEH. 


77 


the  isles  of  the  Indian  Sea.  Dr.  Cuni,  a French  Consul  and 
physician,  to  whom  I had  a letter  from  the  author  of  “ The 
Wanderer,”  who  sojourned  here  on  his  return  from  the  far 
Southeast,  gave  me  the  most  oriental  marks  of  hospitality, 
and  nothing  hut  Thebes  would  have  carried  me  away.  I 
could  not  but  look  with  interest  upon  his  wife  and  bright-eyed 
child,  that  might  have  adorned  any  saloon  in  Paris,  far 
removed  here  from  the  houses  of  European  refinement,  but 
preserving  all  the  cultivation  of  polished  Parisian  life.  The 
Doctor  showed  me  a crocodile,  just  killed  and  stuffed,  which 
was  well  called  by  him  the  crocodil  enorme  I for  such  a mon- 
ster I never  saw.  There  is  an  English  Yice-Consul  here,  a 
Turk,  but  I did  not  see  him.  Taking  a hasty,  but  most 
delicious  Turkish  bath,  for  which  I paid  the  enormous  sum  of 
two  piastres,  and  a fair  wind  springing  up,  I was  on  my  way 
to  Thebes.  The  two  boats  of  my  three  English,  Scotch,  and 
Dutch  friends,  with  whom  I dined  at  Osiout,  just  now  hove  in 
sight  below  ; and  I found  I had  no  reason  to  spur  up  An- 
tonio, or  the  Arab  men,  for  the  rival  spirit  animated  both,  and 
they  were  as  anxious  as  I was  that  the  American  colors  on 
the  Nile  should  excel  in  the  race.  On  we  sped,  and  I found 
my  little  boat  was  a famous  sailer.  We  rounded  the  river 
here,  and  entered  the  sunny,  smiling  Thebaid.  The  boats 
Avere  determined  to  pass  me,  and  I had  unfortunately 
one  boatman  ashore,  as  he  had  crossed  from  Gheneh, 
and  passed  to  Aboo  Girgeh,  upon  the  west  bank,  to  see  his 
relatives  there.  I had  to  take  him  in,  but  it  took  me  but  a 
moment ; as  we  passed  a rocky  point,  he  was  ready,  and 
jumped  on  board.  On  we  went,  passing  Guoos,  or  Coos. 
Coos,  the  Apollonopolis  parva,  smaller  city  of  Apollo  of  the 
Greeks,  is  here ; and  Negadeh,  where  was  the  city  of  Maxi- 


78 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


mian,  and  a Coptic  Bishop,  and  once  a powerful  Coptic 
colony,  of  which  all  travellers  speak — but  who  would  stop  at 
them  when  Gebel  Gournou  is  in  sight  in  the  distance,  and  we 
are  so  near  mighty  Thebes  ! Here  in  times  of  earliest  Egypt 
Osiris  lived.  At  Coptos  were  celebrated  the  sacred  rites  of 
Isis,  and  here  were  legends  of  her.  It  was  said  here  she 
bewailed  the  loss  of  her  husband  Osiris.  At  Took,  we  gained 
a beautiful  view  of  the  mountains,  and  a break  in  the  valley 
discovered  some  of  the  finest  scenery  on  the  Nile ; and  there, 
in  the  distance,  is  the  lofty  mountain  of  Gournou ; and  soon 
we  will  gain  the  view  of  Gebel  Luxor.  Thus,  then,  the 
object  of  all  my  aspirations,  the  reward  of  all  my  difficulties 
of  travel,  is  attained.  Thebes,  Luxor,  Karnac,  are  within 
less  than  twenty-four  hours’  voyage.  All  my  spirit  was,  how- 
ever, in  the  race.  * The  boats  gained  upon  me,  but  until 
sunset  my  colors  were  triumphant;  finally,  however,  their 
boats  came  up.  We  saluted  with  our  flags  at  half-mast,  and 
in  a few  minutes  put  to  the  shore,  where  I accepted  my 
friend’s  invitation  to  come  into  his  boat.  We  passed  gayly  the 
evening  before  Luxor,  and,  while  dreaming  on  the  divan  at 
midnight,  I felt  the  boat  stop. 

The  next  morning  I was  greeted  by  Luxor’s  famed  temple 
as  I issued  from  the  cabin.  I was  soon  there,  and  could 
scarcely  disagree  with  my  Scotch  friend,  who  returned  to  the 
boat  with  a long,  sad  face,  saying,  there  was  nothing  to  see 
but  a very  fine  obelisk  ; that  he  thought  there  was  something 
to  see,  but  there  was  nothing  : and,  indeed,  when  you  see 
Luxor,  it  loses  much  of  its  impressiveness  from  the  barking 
dogs,  and  modern  Turkish  towns,  and  Governors  and  Gwa- 
wazie,  and  Arab  huts,  that  guard  every  approach  ; and  filthy 
Arabs  about  it. 


LUXOR. 


79 


But  the  impression,  as  you  approach  for  the  first  time  on 
the  north  side  a temple  of  ancient  Egypt,  for  I had  never  seen 
one  before,  and  see  those  half-buried  statues,  and  that  obelisk, 
whose  fellow  in  proud  grandeur  towers  above  ihe  palaces,  even 
of  Napoleon,  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  in  Paris  ; when  you 
trace  that  battle  scene  of  Sesostris,  defaced  so  by  Persian  van- 
dalism ; when  you  wind  up  that  worn  staircase  and  stand  on 
the  top,  passing  the  names  of  Osiren  and  the  great  Raineses, 
seen  for  the  first  time,  and  look  around  over  the  wide  plain  of 
Thebes  to  Karnac  and  its  city  of  ruins ; not  all  you  have  ever 
read  of  travellers’  descriptions  or  paintings  can  equal  this  sub- 
lime impression. 

It  was,  as  I have  said,  morning,  and  my  boat  lay  beneath 
the  great  temple  of  Luxor.  It  was  a proud  moment  as  I hur- 
ried over  the  stairs,  and  stood  before  the  time-worn  portico. 
The  battles  of  the  conquering  Sesostris  are  still  sculptured  on 
the  walls  ; the  helmeted  statues  are  still  grand.  The  obelisk 
is  still  beautiful,  but  lonely,  as  if  the  loss  of  its  brother,  which 
the  French  Emperor  had  carried  to  Paris,  had  tamed  its  pride.* 
I clambered  to  the  summit  of  the  edifice ; I gazed  over  the 
plains  of  Thebes  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Nile.  The 
statues  of  Memnon  stand  clear  in  the  morning  light.  Behind, 
the  ruins  of  Memnonium,  so  called,  invite  to  the  beautiful 
repository  of  Egyptian  art.  To  the  north  are  the  temples  and 
palaces  of  Medinet  Habou,  and  behind  them  all,  the  mountain 
where  sleep  the  queens.  To  the  northwest  lies  Gournou,  with 
its  less  distinct  ruins,  and  behind  El  Assasif,  the  sacred  valley 
of  the  temple  of  the  Dair,  and  the  tombs  of  the  priests  and 

* Since  writing  the  above  at  Luxor,  I have  again  seen  the  obelisk  of  the  Place 
de  Concorde  at  Paris,  surrounded  with  the  paltry  trappings  of  the  fHe  of  May 
How  insignificant  they  seemed,  and  what  a profanation  of  Luxor  ! 


80 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


sages  of  old  Egypt ; and  over  that  lofty  mountain,  is  the 
deserted  valley  of  Biban  el  Memlook  and  the  wonderful  tombs 
of  the  kings.  Between  them  and  us  are  the  plains  of  Thebes  ; 
we  are  gazing  upon  it  from  the  ancient  Diospolis.  Its  walls, 
its  hundred  gates,  its  twenty  thousand  chariots  ! What  we  sse 
is  all  that  remains.  The  Nile  flows  on  as  when  Luxor  was 
founded  by  the  people  who  survived  the  flood.  This  barbaric 
structure  upon  which  we  stand  has  the  impress  of  ages.  The 
name  of  Sesostris  is  upon  the  walls ; his  conquests  cover  the 
temple.  It  is  the  least  interesting  of  the  ruins  of  Thebes ; 
and  yet,  when  you  look  at  its  single  obelisk  transported  to 
Paris,  towering,  as  it  does,  above  the  temples  there,  who  can- 
not feel  how  noble  was  the  aim  of  the  ancient  Egyptians ! 
We  mount  the  other  side  of  the  temple ; my  Champollion’s 
Grammar  and  Dictionary  are  faithful,  and  I can  read  the 
hieroglyphics,  the  secrets  of  more  than  thirty  centuries.  The 
architecture  strikes  you  as  rude,  like  the  Etruscan  architecture 
of  Italy ; like  the  rude  works  of  a primeval  age,  the  first  en- 
deavor of  a race  to  build  structures.  It  is  more  rude  than 
Medinet  Habou,  or  even  Southern  Dair,  and  only  the  structure 
at  Gournou,  which  bears  the  name  of  King  Osiren,  the  father 
of  Sesostris,  can  at  all  compare  with  it  in  antiquity. 

But  the  temple  of  Luxor,  whose  columns  so  strike  you 
from  the  ruins,  is  too  well  described  for  me  to  say  any  thing 
new  here.  Engravings  and  paintings  have  made  it  familiar. 
It  is  beautiful  when  seen  from  the  river,  but  disgusting  from 
the  huts  about  it;  half  of  the  sculptures  are  covered  by 
wretched  Arab  huts,  where  you  gain  admission  through  the 
miserable  entrances.  Dogs  are  barking  at  you  for  being  a 
Christian,  and  women  barking  at  you  for  backsheesh ; taken 
all  together,  it  spoils  the  eflTect  of  the  whole.  There  is  none 


LUXOR. 


bi 

of  that  noble  solitude,  that  sublimity  of  desolation,  which 
' makes  Karnac  such  a stupendous  poem : and  imprints  it  in 
I characters  of  sublimity  ever  on  your  soul. 

I Through  Arab  huts  and  barking  dogs,  and  not  less  trouble- 
some vendors  of  antiques,  we  hurry  to  the  still  noble  columns 
of  the  great  temple  of  Luxor.  How  magnificent  the  capitals  ! 
How  perfect,  still,  the  chambers  ! Here  in  one  is  the  birth  of 
Osiren,  who  founded  it;  there  the  conquests  of  a Pharaoh. 
Part  of  the  temple  one  side  of  an  Arab  town ; the  other,  frag- 
mentary chambers,  distant  from  each  other.  Fancy  would 
group  them  together,  and  give  some  idea  of  the  original  vast- 
ness of  the  edifice.  The  columns  still  show  its  grandeur, — the 
space  it  occupies,  its  vastness.  The  palace  was  built  by  Osi- 
ren, the  father  of  Sesostris. 

Karnac^  Temple  of  Ammon. 


till  within  soar 

Of  towering  eagles,  to  all  the  birds  he  seems 
A Phoenix,  gazed  on  by  that  sole  bird. 

When  to  inshrine  his  relics  in  the  sun’s 
Bright  temple,  to  Egyptian  Thebes, 

He  flies.” 

Milton. 

But  we  had  seen  from  the  temple  of  Luxor,  the  distant 
temples  and  obelisks  of  the  city  of  Karnac,  standing  a mile 
from  us  in  all  the  distinctness  of  a noble  modern  city ; and 
yet  all  we  saw  was  of  Ancient  Egypt,  and  a city  three  thou- 
sand years  old.  Among  the  groves  of  date- trees,  and  in  that 
wide,  rich  plain,  terminated  by  the  beautiful  Arabian  moun- 
tains, it  has  slept  for  thirty  centuries.  What  a contemplation ! 

4^ 


82 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Those  forests  of  doom  palms  have  seen  how  many  countless 
generations  of  Moslems  beneath  their  shade,  and  yet  how 
many  generations  of  groves  have  grown  and  decayed  in  sight 
of  the  city  of  the  great  temple  ! 

We  are  riding  from  Luxor  to  the  city  of  Karnac.  We  are 
on  the  road  where  on  each  side  stood  the  sphinxes,  gods,  the 
whole  way.  There  are  a few  here  yet,  some  expressive  in 
their  lion  body  ; for  their  strength  is  the  only  attribute  they 
possess.  Their  heads,  their  intelligence,  their  divinity  is  gone. 
The  subdued  body  speaks  only  of  Egypt’s  conquered  gods. 

I stood  before  one’ of  the  porticoes  of  Karnac.  The  gods 
are  there  •:  Osiris  in  dignity,  Isis  in  rich,  gorgeous  beauty,  the 
conquering  king,  the  gifts,  the  rites,  the  offerings,  the  accept- 
ance by  the  gods,  Egypt’s  oft-told  tale. 

In  the  Meneptheum,  the  figures  are  still  distinct  and  deep. 
The  conquests  of  Meneptha  the  First,  are  there.  Time’s 
impress  is  clear. 

In  the  grand  court  of  the  temple  of  Karnac,  I realized  one 
of  the  sublimest  visions  of  my  youthful  fancy.  A court  of 
ruins,  the  single  fallen  column,  the  unbroken  silence,  the 
sculptured  wall,  the  broken  colossal  statues,  the  ruins  around, 
above,  beneath.  I stood  mdeed  among  the  ruins  of  empires 
of  the  world’s  youth.  In  the  distant  columns  of  the  awful 
temple,  an  owl  was  hooting.  I sat  upon  a pillar  and  gazed. 
It  was  Byron’s  dream.  My  Arab  with  his  spear  and  flow- 
ing beard  completed  the  picture. 

Among  the  forests  of  lofty,  beautiful  columns  in  the  great 
hall  of  the  temple  of  Karnac,  I passed  hours.  It  is  beyond 
description.  The  names  of  the  heroes  and  kings  are  number- 
less, the  scenes  on  the  walls,  the  colossal  sculptures,  the  pas- 


KARNAC. 


83 


toral  scenes,  the  battles,  the  perspectives,  the  halls  of  columns, 
some  fallen  on  each  other, — how  vain  to  enumerate — to 
describe  ! I have  seen  it  by  sunrise.  I have  been  there  at 
mid-day,  at  sunset,  and  by  the  light  of  the  pale  moon.  I have 
scared  the  jackal  from  the  ruins,  and  heard  the  hyena  howl, 
and  among  the  things  of  beauty  that  will  ever  be  in  my 
remembrance  as  a joy  for  ever,  is  Karnac,  by  moonlight. 

Karnac  ! The  mind  recoils  from  a description,  and  prefers 
to  say  nothing  ! The  day  spent  there  on  our  way  up  was  so 
glorious,  my  solitary  sojourn  at  sunset  and  in  the  evening 
such  ; the  first  view  from  far-oif  Luxor  (two  miles)  of  a city  of 
ruins,  a forest  of  obelisks  and  temples  and  antique  columns — 
the  whole  approach — so  grand,  the  eflect  so  overpowering, 
and  the  solitude  so  magnificent,  the  Hall  of  Columns  so  stu- 
pendous, that  I dare  not  venture  on  detailed  description. 

It  is  a conception  answering  the  highest  idea  of  art ; it  is 
'perfect  in  its  kind  ; it  is  the  grandeur  of  desolation — so  com- 
plete, like  that  circle^^  of  beauty  in  the  soul  pictures  of  Guido 
Rene,  in  the  Holy  Family  of  Correggio,  in  the  cartoons  of  the 
masters.  A perfect  completeness,  it  lies,  unexcelled  in  majes- 
ty, in  extent,  in  those  fertile  plains  of  the  Thebaid.  A greater 
traveller  than  I am,  says,  “There  is  nothing  like  it  in  tlie 
world.” 

I threw  away  my  Champollion ; I forgot  its  details,  de- 
spised its  history,  knew  no  story  of  Jupiter  Ammon ; but  for 
hours,  leaning  on  the  stones  before  that. forest  of  three  hundred 
and  sixty  columns,  contemplated  the  grandeur  of  the  scene. 
I had  seen  nought  of  Thebes  as  yet,  but  stayed,  and  stayed, 
and  revisited  it  four  times,  and  never  fully  drank  in  the  glori- 
ous poetry,  never  filled  my  soul  with  the  true  “ genius  of 
the  place.”  It  is  awful ! overwhelming  ! overpowering ! 


84 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


But  the  time  came  when  I rehearsed  all  its  stories  of  Osir- 
tasen  and  the  Pharaohs  of  the  patriarchs — the  Rameses,  the 
Pharaohs  of  the  Mosaic  period — of  Sesostris,  of  Shishak,  of 
the  Ptolemies,  and  Alexander.  And  when  No- Ammon,  with  all 
its  poetry  of  ruin,  and  all  its  glory  of  history,  seemed  grander 
and  nobler  than  ever ; the  temple  of  Ammon  and  Jupiter  al- 
most as  grand  as  when  all  this  Diospolis  was  in  her  highest 
splendor,  and  those  broken  sphinxes  around  were  perfect ; 
those  painted  halls  fresh  from  the  pencil,  and  the  idols  crowned 
with  garlands,  and  the  temples  filled  with  vessels  of  gold  and 
silver,  and  crowds  stood  in  those  stately  groves  to  wait  for  the 
virgin  clothed  in  white  to  be  led  forth  a victim  to  Father  Nile : — 
When  No- Ammon  told  me,  in  her  ruin,  in  her  history,  in  the 
painted  hieroglyphics  on  her  walls,  the  confirmation  of  the 
historians  and  prophets  of  a people,  whom  God  chose  to 
be  a scourge  for  the  cruelties  and  the  crimes  which,  among 
so  much  splendor,  Thebans  allowed,  to  pollute  themselves ; 
I felt  the  true  beauty  of  the  work  over  whose  ruin,  with 
folded  arms  and  bended  stature,  I stood  mournfully  musing. 

To  view  Karnac  historically,  you  must  begin  with  the 
ancient  granite  structure  between  the  Propylori  on  the  east 
and  the  Hypostyle  hall  of  grand  columns.  This,  built  by  Osir- 
tasen  I.,  1920  b.  c,  ; or,  according  to  Bunsen,  1000  before  Moses, 
or  2573  b.  c.  ; was  added  to  by  Thothmes,  1710*  b.  c.,  whose 
names  may  be  found  upon  the  walls.  The  space  between 
had  four  obelisks,  of  which  one  is  erect,  and  the  rest  fallen 
and  in  fragments.  Passing  the  Propylon  and  remains  of  two 
statues  of  Rameses  II.,  we  pass  an  obelisk  thirty  feet  high, 
v/hich  (Champollion  says)  was  erected  by  a lady  ; when  ap- 

♦ We  use  the  chronology  of  the  Septuagint,  remarking  that  Bunsen  and  his 
aehool  differ  many  hundred  years. 


KARNAC. 


85 


pears  the  wall  of  old  stones,  the  granite  gateway,  in  which  you 
still  see  the  place  for  the  kings.  We  mounted  this,  and  looked 
down  into  a deep  place ; the  granite  is  finely  polished  and  set. 

The  granite  Sanctuary^  after  the  grand  Hall  of  Columns, 
is  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  Karnac  in  its  preservation.  The 
ceiling  is  as  blue,  and  its  golden  stars  as  distinct,  as  if  painted 
yesterday.  The  cartouches  are  beautifully  colored,  and  the 
most  conspicuous  have  the  beetle-marked  name  of  Thothmes 
III.  Names  of  travellers  from  all  parts  of  the  world  cover 
this  beautiful  hall.  It  is  built  of  Syene  granite,  highly  pol- 
ished : writers  have  dwelt  upon  the  infamous  and  voluptuous 
uses  of  this  sanctuary ; the  obscene  pictures  and  rites  I leave 
to  them.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  Lepsius  has  carried  away 
some  of  the  most  conspicuous  of  them  to  decorate  the  museum 
of  his  royal  master  in  Berlin,  where  they,  will  doubtless  form 
a cabinet,  like  the  secret  museum  in  the  Borbonico  from 
Pompeii  at  Naples,  to  amuse  the  royal,  refined  purity  of  the 
Prussian  Prince,  as  does  the  other  that  of  King  Bomba  Laz- 
zaroni.  The  Sanctuary  or  Treasure-house  took  its  name 
from  the  discoveries  and  excavations  of  Lord  Belmore.  Some 
of  the  oldest  granite  blocks  are  after  this ; and  you  descend 
deep  into  a grass-grown  and  low,  seeming  sanctuary,  where  I 
saw  a huge  serpent,  and  avoided  the  rank  grass  that  grows 
there.  A long  forest  of  ruins — temples,  shafts  of  columns, 
capitals,  end  in  a huge  gateway  of  gray  granite  stretching 
to  the  north,  where  you  find  the  finest  sculptures  of  the  Greek 
era,  and  whose  lofty  proportions,  and  elegant  devices  and 
hieroglyphics,  tell  the  once  majestic  extent  of  the  famed  tem- 
ple of  Jupiter  Ammon.  Pedestals  of  two  obelisks  we  pass, 
and  another  miniature  hall  of  the  Grand  Hall,  but  which  is 
said  to  have  been  its  model,  called  the  Chamber  of  the  Kings, 


86 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


and  of  great  antiquity,  carries  us  to  a portico  commenced 
by  Alexander,  and  unfinished ; and  after,  some  Egyptian  col- 
umns, twelve  of  which  are  standing,  carry  us  to  the  site  of  a 
Christian  church  ; from  the  roof  you  may  get  a fine  view,  and 
form  some  idea  of  what  was  the  great  temple  of  Jupiter 
Ammon.  Below  was  a court  filled  up  with  huge  heaps  of 
stone,  where  were  two  sitting  statues  of  Thothmes,  and  a 
fortified  gateway,  by  which  the  inhabitants  of  Karnac  on  the 
southeast  approached.  Far  in  the  distance  towered  the  moun- 
tains ; west  of  this,  to  the  river,  were  the  walls  of  two  temples 
having  the  name  of  Rameses  II.,  with  a little  grove  of  trees 
between  them,  and  some  sphinxes. 

The  colossal  sitting  figures  of  white,  which  are  in  a direct 
line  with  the  central  avenue  leading  to  the  gate  of  Shishak, 
are  of  beautiful  sculpture,  and  so  perfect  that  I thought  they 
were  of  marble,  and  Greek  art  of  the  time  of  Alexander.  They 
represent  a naked  figure,  with  a sort  of  kilt  about  the  loins, 
and  a girdle  around  the  waist ; they  are  formed  of  a single 
block  of  white  crystallized  sulphate  of  lime.  The  other  stat- 
ues are  similar,  but  constructed  either  of  higher-polished  black 
syenite,  or  of  red  pudding-stone,  like  those  at  Gouinou.  The 
names  on  the  accompanying  walls  show  dates  four  thousand 
years  ago. 

Here,  by  this  lake,  were  palaces  surrounded  by  houses  of 
brick,  stuccoed  within  and  without,  inclosed  by  courts,  vine- 
yards, and  gardens,  and  adorned  with  alcoves,  fish-ponds, 
statues,  and  painted  obelisks. 

Through  a still  standing  avenue  of  sphinxes  among 
groves,  we  pass  to  another  field  of  ruins  belonging  to  the  old 
city  of  Karnac. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of  Karnac  is  perhaps  the 


KARNAC. 


87 


least  visited.  It  lies  to  the  east,  toward  the  Arabian  Chain, 
and  is  called  the  temple  of  Typhon  the  huge  idol  dwarf  pol- 
lutes it  with  his  image.  Near  is  an  artificial  lake,  extending 
around,  and  inclosing  on  three  sides  the  ground  where  once 
doubtless  stood  a palace.  Now  there  stands  there  but  a court 
of  lions’  statues,  and  statues  in  black  granite,  crumbling  away 
among  images  of  sphinxes  and  female  statuary.  Around  this 
the  artificial  lake  reflected  in  clear  water  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  temple,  and  palace  of  old  Egypt.  Upon  this  you  may 
shoot  your  game,  and  fancy  what  Karnac  was.  Statues  of 
sphinxes,  with  women’s  heads,  fill  the  plain  around.  The 
temple  of  Typhon  stands  but  a short  distance  ofl*  between  us 
and  the  grand  temple  of  Karnac.  Who  can  gaze  here,  and 
not  feel  the  genius  of  the  place  ? 

The  nearest  part  of  the  temple  towards  you  is  that  of  the 
time  of  the  Greek  Emperors,  where  stood  the  two  still  perfect 
Greek  statues  in  white  limestone. 

What  must  have  been  this  lake  when,  surrounded  by 
palaces,  crowds  of  happy  creatures  gathered  in  these  courts, 
and  wound  among  this  rich  forest  of  sphinxes  and  lions’ 
statues,  among  the  sculptures  of  females,  and  rare  mystical 
monsters  ? Such  was  this  sweet  lake  as  now : this  was  a 
garden — then  youths  and  maidens  were  here : 

“ In  drapery  like  woven  snow 
These  nymphs  were  clad ; and  each  below 
The  rounded  bosom  loosely  wor 
A dark  blue  zone  or  bandelet, 

With  little  silver  stars  all  o’er 
As  are  the  stars  at  midnight  set. 

* Typhon,  the  hideous  dwarf— a devil ; he  strikes  you  as  a devil.  See  Leviticus 
xvi. ; Agazil ; also  Bahr,  Ewald,  Hengsteaberg,  Tholuck. 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


While  in  their  tresses  braided  through, 

Sparkled  that  flower  of  Egypt’s  lakes, 

The  silvery  lotus,  in  whose  hue 

As  much  delight  the  young  moon  takes 
As  doth  the  day  god  to  behold. 

The  lofty  bean  flower’s  buds  of  gold ; 

And  as  they  gracefully  went  round 
The  worshipped  bird,  some  to  the  beat 
Of  Castanets,  some  to  the  sound 
Of  the  shrill  Sistrum  timed  their  feet. 

While  others  at  each  step  they  took, 

A tinkling  chain  of  silver  shook,” 

And  thus  it  is,  one  is  ever  thrown  back  upon  the  past  here. 
To  be  in  the  present  is  beautiful,  fascinating.  Who  can  look 
upon  these  Arabian  mountains  from  Karnac,  their  picturesque 
grandeur  against  the  lovely  sky,  and  the  rich  fertility  of  the 
intervening  landscape,  without  thanking  God  for  its  beauty  ? 
And  who  can  see  that  sunset,  standing  on  Karnac,  near  the 
hills  that  encircle  Thebes, 

“ While  Nilus  rolls  his  crystal  way  between,” 

without  thrills  of  joy  such  as  few  feel  in  their  lives, — and  this 
pure,  glad  atmosphere,  of  the  Thebaid ! where  is  there 
aught  like  it  ? 

To-day  is  market-day  in  Luxor.  Go  there,  would  you  see 
modern  Turkish  life  in  Egypt.  There  you  may  view  the 
Governor,  the  haughty  Janizary,  the  reckless  Arnaout  soldier, 
the  white-robed  Arab,  the  Gwawazie  beseeching  you  to  enter, 
the  thousand  costumes  of  this  peculiar  land.  And  yet  who 
would  accept  a Turkish  governor’s  invitation,  when  he  has  an 
evening  to  spend  in  Karnac  ? 

The  obelisks,  the  one  grand^  and  beautiful  in  its  distinctness, 


KARNAC. 


89 


and  another  still  standing,  and  those  scattered  broken  around, 
bear  the  names  of  the  Pharaohs,*  and  one  says  it  was  erected 
by  the  king  Thothmes  II.  to  his  sister,  Amense.  He  was  the 
predecessor  of  Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus.  Perchance  this  com- 
memorated the  noble  Egyptian  dame  who  saved  the  Hebrew 
child  and  Jewish  lawgiver. 

On  we  go  through  propylea  and  porticoes  of  this  immense 
ruined  temple.  Here  are  the  names,  there  the  deeds  of  the 
different  Pharaohs. 

Climb  those  walls,  and  look  into  that  deep  granite  pit, 
through  those  huge  walls.  This  was  the  sanctuary ; the  Per- 
sian conqueror  destroyed  it,  the  Macedonian  Philip  vowed  to 
rebuild  it.  Alexander  fulfilled  the  vow.  Here  are  the  walls 
and  columns  of  white  marbles,  that  men  are  now  burning  to 
make  into  lime. 

Farther  on,  we  have  gone  through  the  ruins  of  a city : — 
and  this  was  but  one  temple.  Descend  into  the  deep  grass 
where  lurk  the  serpents,  and  the  hyenas  find  refuge,  and 
follow  the  still  brilliantly  told  stories  of  the  Egyptian  kings. 
Thence  to  the  grand  propylon,  to  the  most  eastern  side. 

Turn  to  the  east,  and  clamber  those  hills  of  rubbish,  and 
gaze  on  the  noble  plain ; and  to  the  south,  and  see  the  length 
of  mins  you  have  passed  through,  and  further  look  at  another 
propylon  and  the  most  southern  portico,  and  its  fine  sculptures, 
the  sphinxes  that  led  northward  to  the  river. 

Come  back  to  the  ruins  and  go  to  the  north,  through 
another  vast,  ruined  propylon,  with  fallen  colossi  on  the  other 
side. 

Go  further  on,  where,  before  a portico  of  deep  sculptured, 
beautiful  granite,  stand  two  statues  in  spotless  forms,  worthy 


* See  Champollion’s  Grammaire  Egyptienne,  p.  277. 


90 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


of  being  called  Apollo’s,  and  whose  sculptures  tell  the  glory 
of  the  Macedonian  rule  in  Egypt,  and  you  have  not  half  seen 
the  temple  of  Karnac  ; and  when  you  have  seen  all  and  filled 
up  with  your  fancy,  much,  you  have  not  then,  half  seen  the 
temple  of  Karnac. 

Through  the  bright  sunlight  of  this  burning  day,  I have 
been  among  the  stupendous  and  mysterious  records  of  this 
once  proud  temple  of  Karnac — a city  of  ruins  still. 

The  innermost  part  of  the  propylon  is  filled  with  travellers’ 
names.  Here  Englishmen  from  India  record  their  names  with 
Americans  from  St.  Louis.  The  names  of  the  Thothmes 
cover  the  walls  as  you  advance  ; how  dark,  how  time-worn, 
and  yet  how  magnificent ! The  granite  sanctuary  so  fast 
crumbling  away,  and  yet  so  old,  built  a thousand  years  be- 
fore Moses,*  is  overpowering. 

The  Palace  Temple  increases  the  Christian’s  satisfaction. 
Here  no  Christian  can  come  and  not  feel  that  his  faith  is  on  the 
foundation  of  the  apostles  and  prophets,  and  is  from  God. 
Here  are  the  conquests  of  Sethos  ; and  his  greatest  conquests 
sculptured  in  the  highest  artistic  beauty,  as  distinct  on  these 
walls  as  if  done  yesterday.  I have  distinctly  made  out  the 
conquests  of  the  Shepherds.  The  hieroglyphics  above  his 
figure  in  the  chariot  are  an  interesting  story.f 

After,  follow  very  beautiful  sculptures  ; the  story  is  Sethos 
routing  the  Arvadites.  Sethos  is  also  represented  routing  the 
Scythians,  whose  Coptic  name  in  enchorial,  answering  to  the 
hieroglyphics,  is  the  same  as  the  Hebrew  ; a representation  is 
seen  also  of  the  captives  of  the  Arvadites,  whom  Sethos  has 
discomfited.  Sethos  is  represented  in  a car  drawn  by  beau- 
tiful horses,  routing  the  Jebusites. 


* At  least,  so  soys  Bunsen. 


t Champ.  Dictionnaire  Egyptienne. 


SCRIPTURE  PROOFS  FROM  KARNAC. 


91 


Sethos  is  also  represented  routing  the  Canaanites.  His 
victories  over  Canaan  are  recorded.  “ He  desolates  the  land  of 
Canaan,”  says  one  inscription.  All  these,  I believe,  are  spoken 
of  by  Osborn,  but  what  an  advantage  to  find  such  a proof  and 
illustration  of  Scripture  as  the  whole  history  of  his  con- 
quest presents ! Here  are  shown  the  conquest  of  Sesonchis 
over  Rehoboam.  In  the  Palace  Temple  in  the  next  picture 
Sethos  is  routing  the  an  unknown  nation  ; these  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  Canaanites.  He  next  is  routing  the  Syrians, 
and  his  triumphs  are  splendid ; afterwards  the  Arvadites  are 
routed.  The  additions  of  Rameses  the  Great  follow  next.* 

Passing  from  the  obelisk  to  the  propylon,  we  find  on  the 
walls  of  the  hall,  a representation  of  two  ram-headed  boats, 
with  the  sacred  ark  in  procession.  On  the  south  side  these 
sculptures  are  beautiful.  After  the  battle  scene  on  this  side, 
the  king  and  his  prisoners  are  returning  to  the  Nile,  which  is 
marked  by  crocodiles. 

King  Osiren  is  dragging  prisoners  before  the  Theban 
trinity.  A hawk  is  hovering  over  a human  sacrifice  ; and 
among  the  lists  of  the  countries  captured,  are  Mesopotamia, 
Bahrien,  and  Joudahmelek,  kingdom  of  the  Jews ; a hero  kill- 
ing a chief  with  a spear,  like  Hector  and  Achilles.  A people 
of  Jewish  physiognomy  are  storming  a fort. 

The  story  of  Shishak  is  represented  here,  but  only  three 
captives  bound  to  a stake  remain  ; we  leave  that  to  the  proofs 
of  Scripture-prophecy  from  the  monuments.”  Among  the 
names  of  places  conquered,  are  Canaan,  Megiddo,  Kingdom 
of  Judah,  Valley  of  Hinnom,  Petra,  the  dukes  of  Edom, 
Bethlehem,  (Birch,)  House  of  Millo,  (1  Kings,  ix.  15,)  City  of 
Hebron,  (Num.  xxx.  22,)  also  the  names  of  the  god  Be],  (see 
1 Kings  xviii.  27,)  Astarte,  &c. 

* See  Grammaire  Egyptienne,  p.  511. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


West  Thebes. — Medinet  Habou. — The  first  small  temple,  and  its  histories. — The 
second  larger  temple — the  Roman  part. — The  Christian  church — palace — . 
temple  of  Thothmes  I.  and  Thothmes  II. — Thothmes  Mceris. — The  palace 
residence  of  Rameses  Meiamoum. 

I LEAVE  to  the  pages  of  Murray’s  Handbook,  Conder’s  Egypt, 
Miss  Martineau,  and  the  numerous  writers  who  were  my 
guides,  the  description  of  this  beautiful  ruin  of  Egyptian  art : 
and  those  who  would  satisfy  themselves  by  mathematical 
proof,  I refer  to  Champollion’s  Grammaire  and  Dictionnaire 
for  the  translation  of  the  inscriptions,  names,  and  dates. 

Thothmes  I.  was  the  original  founder,  and  his  temple  re- 
mains. Thothmes  II.  and  Thothmes  III.  continued  the  work  ; 
whose  names  and  cartouches  are  still  colored  very  distinctly, 
though  the  rooms  are  so  low  that  you  must  stoop  to  enter.  Built 
in  the  time  of  Joseph,  you  look  upon  this  part  with  interest. 
Champollion,  in  his  “Egypt  under  the  Pharaohs,”  and  his 
“ Letters,”  has  dwelt  upon  this  part.  The  three  courts  of  the 
magnificent  palace  erected  by  Rameses  III.,  (the  same,  ac- 
cording to  Diodorus,  with  Mendes  or  Moeris ;)  the  historical 
bas-relief  battle  scenes  ; the  portico,  adytum — inner  temple 
dedicated  to  Osiris  ; the  Tank,  and  lion-headed  statue  of  Isis  ; 
the  splendid  battle  scenes,  boat  processions ; priests  recording 
offerings  to  the  gods,  and  victims ; the  procession  of  the  Ark ; 
the  chains  of  sacred  “ keys  of  the  Nile ;”  the  lion-attended 


PALACE,  MEDINET  HABOU. 


93 


Rameses  in  battle ; the  lion  hunt ; the  naval  fight  on  the  out- 
side ; the  Birket  Hahou,  or  Lake  of  the  Dead ; the  rubbish- 
covered  ruins, — have  all  been  described  again  and  again. 
But  where  can  one  end  the  description  of  this  fine  temple, 
which  has  records  of  the  Pharaohs,*  Ptolemies,  Caesars,  and 
Christians'?  which  latter  covered  the  walls  with  mud,  and 
erected  a church,  whose  pillars  still  stand. 

The  architecture  of  Medinet  Habou  is  so  grand,  the  paint- 
ings so  gorgeous,  the  colors  so  perfect,  the  battle  scenes  so 
distinct,  the  histories  and  monarchs  so  interesting,  I could 
not  but  admire  the  temple.  Turning  to  the  north,  we  left  the 
grand  court  where  the  Christian  church  stood,  and  ascended 
some  steps  standing  on  the  top  of  the  temple.  What  a stu- 
pendous view ! Thebes  stood  before  us,  and  we  were  in  the 
most  properly  Theban  structure.  Shamy  and  Damy  were  to 
the  northeast,  in  the  middle  of  the  plain  ; the  lofty  mountains 
in  our  rear;  and  the  far  distant  ones,  that  towered  to  the  east 
behind  Karnac,  bounded  the  unequalled  view ; and  Nile, 
flowing  on  as  she  has  ever  flowed,  giving  wealth  and  lux- 
uriance around. 

Again,  from  our  boat,  moored  on  the  west  side,  I gallop  on 
these  fine  horses  of  Thebes,  with  our  guide,  over  to  Medinet 
Habou.  I entered  the  palace  of  Medinet  Habou.t  The  gods 
at  the  entrance  are  carved  exquisitely  out  of  the  light  brown 
stone.  The  Theban  triad,  Ammon,  Mouth,  Chons — Osiris, 
Anubis,  all  are  there.  I stood  and  gazed  out  of  a window. 
What  a scene  ! The  figures  so  royal ! There  is  a queen  sit- 
ting before  her  husband,  the  king  Osiren,  who  is  coying  with 
her ; — a family  picture  of  the  Pharaohs.  Here  was  the  win- 

* Champollion’s  Grammaire,  pp,  321,  329. 
t Ibid.,  pp.  251,  289,  290,  311, 366. 


94 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


dow  where  the  kings  and  queens  have  leaned  and  gazed  out, 
on  so  many  a bright  sunset  evening,  over  this  plain.  How  it 
annihilates  three  thousand  years  to  stand  here,  in  this  royal 
palace ! The  oriel  window  in  Kenilworth,  where  Leicester 
used  to  gaze  on  the  plain — that  seems  old ; so  does  the  Bourg 
Schloss  castle  and  its  window  of  a German  baron,  on  the 
mount  above  Baden.  But  here  ! in  the  palace  of  a Pharaoh  ! 
to  see  his  love  scenes,  his  domestic  scenes,  his  portraits ! It 
is  a tribute  to  the  eternity  of  art, 

“ For  the  artist  never  dies.” 

The  floor  is  broken  down,  but  you  can  distinguish  where  the 
second  story  is,  where  this  chamber  stood,  with  its  window. 
Others  of  the  chambers  are  uninjured. 

The  fallen  pillars  strewn  through  the  wide  and  beautiful 
courts  ; their  capitals,  of  the  highest  architectural  beauty,  cov- 
ered with  sculpture  and  polished ; the  grandeur  of  its  passages, 
colonnades,  battle  scenes ; and  the  ancient  palace  temple  of 
Pharaoh,  attract  you.  But  still  I was  ever  called  back  to  the 
palace  residence  of  Raineses  Meiamoum,  whose  painted  ceil- 
ing, of  an  azure  ground,  was  studded  by  golden  stars,  almost 
as  fresh  as  Roman  Dendera.  The  distinctness  of  the  sculp- 
tures, the  warlike  deeds  of  this  descendant  of  Sesostris,  please 
you.  True,  the  ram-headed  deity,  Ammon  Ra,  the  first  of  the 
Theban  triad  at  the  gateway,  detracts  from  the  beauty  of  the 
effect,  (upon  which  Mrs.  Romer  dilates ;)  but  who  could  not, 
like  her,  forget  it  in  the  sculptures  and  processions,  so  well 
preserved  and  so  old  ? 

Medinet  Habou  has  a Christian  temple  in  Greek  style 
within  its  walls ; but  what  is  even  that,  with  its  Greek  col- 
umns, to  the  testimonies  on  its  walls  in  favor  of  Scripture 


MEMNONIUM. 


95 


truth  ? The  battle  scenes  go  round  the  whole,  fully  answer- 
ing Richardson’s  and  Condor’s  descriptions,  which  were  my 
guides  through  it.  Among  the  most  interesting  is  Rameses 
smiting  the  Hittites.  He  appears  shooting  them  with  his 
arrows,  while  the  name  above  relates  the  story : “ He  smote 
them.”  The  priest  is  above,  recording  the  number  of  the 
captives ; the  hands  cut  from  each  are  falling  in  a shower  at 
his  feet.  The  hearts  of  the  Hittites  faint  within  them,  for 
Rameses  pursues  them  as  a young  lion  pursues  his  prey. 
Give  yourselves  to  mirth  ; I am  to  Egypt  what  the  god  Men- 
don  has  been ; I have  vanquished  the  companies.  Ammon 
Ra,  my  father,  subdued  the  whole  world  under  my  feet,  and 
I am  king  on  the  throne  for  ever.” 

For  other  inscriptions,  refer  to  Champollion. 

Manetho  confirms  this,  and  also  the  inscriptions  which  say 
he  drove  them  to  the  bounds  of  Syria. 

The  Memnonium  I visited  next. 

After  riding  round  the  grand  entrance,  or  propylon,  I 
went  leisurely  to  exploring  the  battle  scene  on  the  river  side. 
From  this  magnificent  piece  I turned,  and  rode  my  horse  to 
the  fallen  statue  of  Osmandyas.  Its  grandeur,  the  beautiful 
polish  of  the  black  Syenite  granite,  the  deep-cut  cartouche 
upon  the  arm,  the  broken  foot — how  grand  ! how  startling  ! 

. The  next,  properly  the  palace  of  Rameses,  how  beautiful  !* 
It  represents  Sesostris’s  conquests,  and  those  of  Sethos,  his 
brother,  and  predecessor.  Entering,  you  see  that  magnificent 
fabric  called  the  hall  of  Osiris,  four  colossal  figures  of  whom 
form  the  columns  ; — those  of  Ipsamboul,  can  scarce  be  grander. 
Afterwards  you  enter  a passage,  passing  through  broken 

* Among  the  conquests,  Sethos,  his  brother,  is  represented  as  having  taken 
Punon,  a station  of  the  Israelites,  near  Mount  Hor.  (Numbers  xxxiii,  43,44.) 


96 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


torsos,  some  standing,  some  fallen  down,  of  beautiful  sculpture  ; 
and  proportion,  displaying  art  and  preservation  that  no  Par- 
thenon can  boast  of.  How  splendid  a ruin  ! 

On  through  this  temple  of  art,  the  victorious  hero,  the 
builder  sovereign  of  the  palace  is  ever  before  you  ; now  himself 
receiving,  now  offering  gifts  to  the  gods,  who  are  sculptured  j 
so  finely  : and  now  you  enter  a building  of  light  stone  struc-  i 
ture,  and  finer  sculpture.  The  victorious  conqueror  is  here 
too.  ' He  sits,  with  his  queen  by  his  side,  on  the  right  hand  of  ' 
the  opposite  wall  as  you  enter,  but  he  has  returned  from  a ' 
richer,  a more  genial  clime,  than  even  this  sunny  Said — from 
the  region  of  tropical  Asia.  His  captives  have  a Perso-Indian 
head-dress,  and  his  companions  are  bearing  trees,  whose 
thick  foliage,  and  hanging  fruits,  show  the  rich  luxuriance  of 
an  equatorial  growth.  A cameleopard,  as  finely  sculptured 
as  if  by  an  artist  of  the  Zoological  Gardens,  forms  part  of  the 
spoils  of  the  conquered  India  ; and  the  priests  of  Thoth 
stand  with  tablets,  recording  his  victories,  and  the  number  of 
victims  he  has  slain,  on  the  fruit  of  a tree ; and  his  pencil  has 
half  painted  his  cartouche. 

And  that  door,  where  led  that 7 Take  up  Diodorus  ; he 
describes  all  you  have  seen — battles,  statues,  colossi,  and  all : 
and  what  stood  here  in  that  door,  leading  toward  the  moun- 
tain ? There,  where  ruins  are  fast  disappearing,  stood  that 
glorious  library  of  Thebes,  and  the  Grecian  coming  hither, 
like  us,  a traveller,  found  written  over  the  famous  threshold, 
inscribed  in  golden  letters,  (would  that  it  were  written  there  in 
bright  diamonds  !)  the  magical  words : 

“ Medicine  for  the  mind — pharmacy  for  the  soul.” 

What  a joy  that  here  princes,  priests,  sages,  and  their 


MEMNONIUM. 


97 


scholars,  hierophant  and  neophyte,  came  to  consult  the  Phy- 
sician of  the  soul — that  bright  letters  were  the  glory  of  palaces 
of  Egypt  three  thousand  years  ago.  Where  is  that  library, 
that  refreshed  the  intellect  of  the  court  of  Rameses  the  Great  ? 
The  wise  men  of  his  realm  were  great  still,  as  their  figures 
show,  in  all  that  is  noble  of  race : for  the  deluge  had  not  long 
left  the  world  green,  and  the  patriarchal  nobility  of  the  young 
creation  had  not  wholly  degenerated.  Where  are  those  trea- 
sures of  the  intellect  of  Thebes  and  Diospolis  ? Alas  ! all 
gone.  Perchance  they  formed  a bonfire  for  Cambyses  without 
the  ancestral  halls  ; perchance,  like  the  Alexandrian  treasures, 
they  lit  a Mohammedan  bath.  The  rituals  written  here  are 
preserved  only  in  coffins  of  the  dead,  or  give  renown  to  an 
European  museum ; while  coffin,  ritual,  mummy,  and  all,  form 
the  fuel  to  prepare  many  an  Arab’s  dinner:  and  the  noble 
papyri,  the  genealogies,  the  records  of  the  high  and  beautiful 
civilization  of  these  antique  and  once  gorgeous  palaces,  are  all 
gone. 

Would  I picture  a proper  device  for  Egypt,  it  should  be 
the  priest  of  Thoth,  with  reed  and  torch  inverted,  gazing  at 
this  desolate  ruin,  where  the  Grecian  philosophic  traveller 
found  wisdom,  and  “ balsam  for  the  soul.” 

With  a heart  too  full  for  utterance,  I turned  back,  and 
mounted  my  horse.  You  shed  tears  by  the  tomb  of  a loved 
one,  but  if  they  pour  down  your  cheeks  here,  it  is  from  mingled 
sorrow  at  the  desolation,  and  exultation  at  the  thought  that 
you  are  made  in  the  image  of  a race  that  was  so  great,  so 
civilized,  and  knew  so  well  the  powers  of  the  mind  and  the 
secrets  of  the  soul  thirty  centuries  ago. 

From  such  a past,  and  its  contrasts  with  the  battle  scenes, 

we  turn  away,  for  its  true  glory  redeems  the  blood-marked 

5 


98 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


victories  of  Sesostris’s  conquering  car.  For  the  value  of  art,  we 
sigh  at  the  foolish  childishness  of  Cambyses  in  destroying  so 
much,  and  wonder  that  so  much  remains  where  he  attempted 
to  destroy  the  whole.  It  is  a noble,  a beautiful  work ; so 
thought  Siculus,  so  thinks  Warburton — so  thinks  every  one  : 
we  would  as  soon  attempt  to  describe  the  “ Venus  de 
Medici.” 

Such  a beautiful  architectural  wreck  is  that  magnificent 
pile  the  Memnonium  ! From  the  majestic  portal  that  faces  the 
statues  of  Memnon  and  the  Nile,  through  its  whole  extent,  till 
you  reach  the  lofty  rock  entrance  in  the  rear  ; from  the  battles 
to  the  victories;  they  tell  of  triumphs  that  put  to  shame 
Napoleon,  and  show  the  ridiculous  vanity  of  a conqueror, 
whose  energy  claims  admiration,  but  whose  cruelty  and 
vanity  are  but  ill  redeemed  by  such  beautiful  art.  Do  the 
noble  Colossus,  in  its  breadth  excelling  the  height  of  four 
ordinary  men ; the  sieges,  the  astronomical  figures,  which  tell 
the  date,  1322  b.  c.  ; the  olferings  to  Mendes ; the  six  courts, 
and  richly  sculptured  chambers  ; the  remains  of  the  200 
columns  which  once  stood  here,  some  of  which  still  stand,  and 
others  adorn  the  museums  and  galleries  of  the  world ; the 
crumbling  Propylon,  of  which  two  hundred  feet  are  still  entire  ; 
the  Dromos,  or  Portico  ; the  Osiris  Court,  and  its  statues  of  the 
god  with  crossed  sceptre ; the  basaltic  figures  and  gigantic 
statues  of  Sesostris  ; the  Pronaos,  and  Great  Hall,  with  its 
nine  compartments,  its  mythological  processions,  its  offerings 
to  the  Theban  Triad,  its  chambers  with  the  budding  lotus 
capitals,  its  ark  processions  of  the  priests,  its  ceiling  of  stars 
and  astronomical  processions  and  sacred  boats,  sacred  birds, 
winged  globe,  crocodiles ; Nepthis,  and  the  mysterious  em- 
blems of  the  Hierophants : — do  all  these  at  all  redeem  the 


VOCAL  STATUE  OF  MEMNON. 


99 


vanity  or  cruelty  of  the  great  hero,  who  has  been  so  often 
historied  ? Such  was  the  vanity  of  conquest  then,  such  the 
animal  pursuit  of  war,  such  the  beastly  triumph  of  victory. 
Will  the  world  ever  give  hope  of  advancement,  while  such 
passions  and  their  rewards  mark  distinction  among  the  race  ? 
Sesostris  conquered  India,  Napier  the  Scinde,  and  Russia  the 
Hungarians.  It  is  all  the  same ; whether  India,  China,  or 
Mexico  ; — a has-relief^  a 'paintings  a statue — the  conqueror 
sitting  in  glory the  victim  handcuffed  at  his  feet,  a priest 
of  Thoth,  or  Isis,  writing  his  victories  on  the  tree,  a Congress 
passing  a “ vote  of  thanks,”  an  assembly  “ decreeing  that  he 
has  deserved  well  of  his  country,”  a Parliament  feeing  a poet 
laureate,  or  a Q^ueen  giving  a baronetcy,  earldom,  or  the 
garter  ; it  is  all  the  same  ; — this  is  that  glory,”  which  those 
who  think  of  a Howard,  in  his  labors  of  love,  view  as  only 
the  blood  of  history’s  shambles. 

How  beautiful  to  stand  at  sunrise  before  the  statue  of 
Memnon  ! Your  fancies  are  so  rich,  and  you  can  find  music 
in  your  soul  there  at  such  an  hour,  if  none  come  from 
Memnon.  Here  you  see, — leaping  from  your  horse’s  saddle 
upon  the  pedestal, — the  testimonies  of  the  lady  friends  of 
Hadrian,  and  many  travellers,  in  Greek  and  Latin,  who  heard 
the  voice.  Perhaps  you  modestly  cut  a letter  of  your  own 
name  on  the  calf  of  the  leg;  perhaps,  like  Sir  Gardner 
Wilkinson,  you  have  the  courage  to  climb  to  the  breast,  to  see 
the  rock  where  the  priest  concealed  himself  who  kept  up  the 
sound,  and  the  rock  which  sounds  like  struck  brass.  I 
contented  myself  with  striking  the  leg,  and  fancying  it  had  a 
ringing  sound  ; but  that  is  mere  moonshine,  for 


Hushed  is  that  strain 


100 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


and  Memnon’s  music  but  lives  in  the  poetry  that  in  every  age 
has  been  written  upon  its  note.  Strabo,  iElius  Gallus,  and 
Diodorus,  were  happy  men,  and  they  were  not  like  us  from 
America,  who  came  further,  and  fared  worse. 

The  usual  ideas  come  up  here — the  time-worn  statues  ; 
what  kingdoms  have  they  outlasted,  what  revolutions  out- 
lived, defying  time  and  tlie  Persian  destroyer!  Continents 
have  been  settled  from  bound  to  bound ; worlds  discovered, 
civilized,  ruined — still  they  stand  historians  of  the  ages  and 
the  cBons.  Coming  from  a land  which  has  in  no  fabric, 
at  least  that  I have  seen,  a stone  or  timber  that  belonged  not 
to  a quarry  or  forest  three  hundred  years  ago,  the  very  idea  of 
these  statues  made  my  soul  widen  and  widen,  and  my  imagi- 
nation stretch  so,  to  think  they  were  of  time  and  history,  and 
yet  only  half  of  time ; and  this  earth’s  history : and  then  I 
thought  of  the  world’s  stars  and  their  histories  ; and  then  I 
thought  of  long,  long  agone  creation — and  then  eternity — and 
God  ! And  Memnon’s  music  then  seemed  spheral  music,  for 
it  brought  me  to  God  by  conclusion  and  comparison ; and  I 
was  never  satisfied  till  I stood  before  the  statue  of  Memnon  : 
and  now  as  I sat  on  my  horse,  and  thought  what  it  had  been 
there,  and  oft  since  in  my  mind,  low  whisperings  came  to  my 
soul, 

“ from  that  immortal  sea 
Tliat  brought  us  hither 
“ I saw  the  children  play  upon  the  shore, 

And  heard  its  mighty  waters  rolling  evermore.” 

And  standing  liere,  we  can  picture  to  ourselves  more  than 
elsewhere  the  grandeur  of  ancient  Thebes,  with  her  hundred 
gates;  she  who  sent  forward  to  the  Trojan  war  the  hosts  of 
the  nigruntis  MemnonisP 


STATUE  OF  AMENOPH  OR  MEMNON. 


101 


Here  stood  the  two  statues  at  the  entrance  to  a grand 
court  of  statues,  that  extended  to  the  Memnonium  under  the 
mountain.  The  whole  plain  to  the  mountain  has  fragments 
of  statues,  all  lying  in  a line. 

And  the  road  to  the  river,  where  lies  our  boat,  and  over 
which  we  are  just  to  spur  our  horses,  had,  doubtless,  another 
court.  This  was  the  royal  street  of  Thebes,  mentioned  in  the 
papyri  of  ancient  Thebes.  What  was  this  in  the  time  of  Osiren 
and  Memnon ! What  a field  of  buildings  and  temples  you 
looked  over,  towards  the  palace  of  the  descendants  of  Rameses 
and  Sesostris,  now  the  ruins  of  Medinet  Habou  ! How  glori- 
ously rode  the  triumphing  kings  along  that  royal  way,  as 
they  returned  from  the  conquests ! How  many  answering 
sounds  around  met  Memnon’s  music  at  the  morning  light ! 
How  desolate  the  plain  now  ! How  many  ages  of  desolation 
since  then ! 

From  Medinet  Habou  you  proceed  north  to  the  valley  of 
Hadj  Achmed,  and  in  a side  of  the  mountain  are  a few  tombs 
of  the  queens.  The  way  is  wild,  strewn  with  rocks,  and 
filled  with  precipices ; the  mountain  gaps  of  a sterile  and 
desert  appearance.  In  the  most  terrible  gorges  of  Switzerland 
or  Scotland  I have  never  seen  nature  so  awful  as  in  this  pass. 
It  would  be  a fit  place  for  a Pandemonium  to  be  laid  in.  Here 
the  robber  might  well  find  his  home ; and  our  guide’s  spear, 
which  he  now  and  then  turned  towards  us,  brandishing, 
seemed  a reliance.  I mentioned  to  my  friend  that  I had  left  my 
pistols,  and  he  replied  that  it  was  the  very  time  we  needed  them. 

In  the  valley  of  Hadj  Achmed  lie  the  tombs  of  the  queens. ' 
These  we  visited,  after  Medinet  Habou  and  the  southern  Dair. 
The  tomb  of  dueen  Taosri,  who  married  /Sethos,  first  king  of 
the  nineteenth  dynasty,  we  explored,  and  it  is  one  of  the  finest 


102 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


in  Thebes.  Most  of  the  monuments  speak  of  that  king’s 
inheritance  in  her  right.  Champollion  quotes  many  of  the 
inscriptions  in  his  Grammar.  This  was  1269  b.  c.  Sethos 
erected  the  avenue  of  sphinxes  at  Karnac,  and  the  small 
chambers  of  the  front  area,  and  was  predecessor  to  Osiren  II. 
and  Amenophis. 

Among  the  most  distinguished,  is  that  of  Amunmeit^  or 
Amun-tmei^  daughter  of  Amunoph. 

The  tomb  of  Glueen  Tayri,  or  Teari,  is  shown.  I also 
entered  one  of  the  wife  of  Amunoph  III.,  and  also  a tomb  of 
the  favorite  daughter  of  Rameses  V.  The  tombs  are  not  satis- 
factory, as  you  have  to  stoop  even  when  in  the  best  part,  and 
they  are  like  the  catacombs  of  Alexandria.  They  have  been 
injured  by  fire.  The  painting  is  not  fresh,  as  in  Biban-el- 
Memlook.  In  the  tomb  of  Gueen  Theti  is  some  interest.* 

The  tombs  of  the  priests  lie  in  the  valley  of  El  Assassif, 
which  you  see  from  the  mountain  precipice  above  the  valley 
of  Biban-el-Memlook,  stretching  below  to  the  south  of  the  tem- 
ple of  northern  Dair,  and  in  the  way  to  the  Memnonium.  They 
are  made  up  of  the  private  sepulchres  of  the  rich  Thebans,  the 
largest  and  finest  of  which  is  that  of  the  celebrated  priest  and 
prophet  Petamenoph  and  his  family ; his  name  is  at  Medinet 
Habou. 

The  pitfalls  all  along,  in  what  was  the  necropolis  of  an- 
cient Thebes,  and  where  modern  Thebes  finds  her  fuel  in  the 
mummy  cases  and  papyri  chambers  cut  in  the  rock,  orna- 
mented with  fine  paintings,  show  manners  and  customs  which 
you  do  not  see  in  the  tombs  of  the  kings.  Some  of  these  are 
highly  illustrative  of  Scripture;  and  Hengstenberg,  Osborn, 
and  others,  have  dwelt  upon  them.  Some  of  the  entrances 

* See  Champollion’s  Grammaire  Egyptienne,  pp.  27G,  408,  394,  357,  404. 


GOURNOU. 


103 


are  very  perfect — cut  in  the  rock,  and  ornamented  with  paint- 
ings and  sculptures ; and  in  some  you  have  to  enter  a la  Bel- 
zoni.  Here  you  may  unroll  mummies  and  read  their  history : 
and  very  fine  ones  are  found  here,  though  the  difficulty  is,  to 
get  them  through  the  custom-house.  The  scenes  in  some  are 
finely  depicted — the  threshing  and  hunting  scenes. 

And  the  thousand  marks  of  the  nothingness  of  men  is  so 
exemplified  here  ! — a Pharaoh’s  ribs  cooking  an  Arab  breakfast ! 

“ To  what  strange  uses  do  we  come  at  last ! ” 

The  subject  is  not  pleasant,  and  has  been  over- written. 

The  small  temple  of  Isis  behind  the  Memnonium  was 
considered  by  travellers  of  the  last  decade  to  be  the  oldest 
monument  in  Thebes ; — this,  and  the  granite  sanctuary 
in  Karnac.  This  temple  is  really  beautiful  and  perfect. 
It  is  approached  by  a mountain  passage.  Several  pits 
are  to  be  seen  near.  It  is  a mile  from  Medinet  Habou. 
Numerous  ruins  may  be  seen  on  the  way  to  it,  all  along  the 
plain. 

Gournou  is  considered  by  many  to  contain  some  of  the 
oldest  monuments  in  Thebes.  The  sculptures,  for  the  most 
part,  bear  the  name  of  Osiren.  Colossal  statues  of  Rameses 
II.  and  of  other  monarchs,  and  fragments  of  other  statues,  are 
scattered  throughout  the  plain.  The  most  striking  ruin  is  that 
of  Aerebek,  the  architecture  of  which  is  in  the  same  style  as 
Medinet  Habou.  The  columns  are  made  of  lotus-reeds  bound 
together ; and  the  names  of  Meneptha  I.  and  Osiren  are  scat- 
tered over  them.  This  style  of  architecture  adorns  the  oldest 
ruins  in  Thebes.  The  pronaos  has  like  piazzas  of  three 
columns  each  ; and  on  the  walls,  which  are  crumbling  away, 
figures  of  Osiris  with  his  scourge  and  crook  in  his  hand,  the 


104 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


hatchet,  the  ark,  the  lotus  fruit,  the  winged  globe,  the  serpent, 
fine  bas-reliefs,  offerings  to  the  deities,  among  whom  is  Am- 
mon Ra,  the  ram-headed  deity,  from  which  we  suppose  that 
Jupiter  Ammon  was  worshipped  here,  as  also  at  Karnac.  Here 
was  the  hall  of  assembly  of  ancient  Thebes.  Here  the  The- 
ban senate  discussed  the  policy  of  government,  receiving  the 
decrees  of  the  hierarchy,  who  governed  here,  as  well  as  in  the 
temple  of  Jupiter  Ammon.  The  ruin,  when  seen  by  day, 
appeared  simple  and  beautiful ; and  afterwards,  when  return- 
ing by  moonlight,  at  midnight,  from  the  tombs  of  the  kings, 
the  pale  light  threw  shadows  through  its  halls,  wrapping  the 
dim  figures  and  names  in  a splendor,  which  accorded  well 
with  their  antiquity  and  obscurity. 

Near  these  ruins  lies  the  beautiful  village  of  Gournou, 
which,  among  the  Arab  villages  of  Egypt,  is  perhaps  the  most 
attractive.  It  is  extremely  well  built,  and  surrounded  by 
fertile  groves,  like  the  ruins  in  the  midst  of  a plain  of  lux- 
uriant corn-fields,  and  fields  of  as  fertile  crops  and  fruits  as 
when  Osiren  had  his  palace  residence  here,  three  thousand 
years  ago. 

A part  of  Gournou,  which  is  fronted  by  the  pillars  of 
lotus  reed,  it  is  said  was  built  by  Menephthah  L,  and  his  son, 
Rameses  the  Great.  One  of  the  inscriptions,  “ Meneplithah 
Barei,  son  of  the  Sun,  constructed  this  habitation  for  years.” 
Here  Menephthah  offers  flowers  to  the  Theban  Triad.* 

We  visited  next  the  temple  Dair,  which  in  its  construction 
by  the  Gliieen  Amunmeitgori,  tells  some  interesting  histories  of 
Egypt. 

Just  under  the  lofty  precipice,  which  is  above  the  Biban- 
el-Memlook,  and  from  which  one  of  the  most  awful  prospects 

* See  Grammaire  Egyptienne,  p.  441,  159. 


AN  ADVENTUPvE. 


105 


in  the  world  may  be  seen — I mean  the  deserted  solitude  of  the 
valley  of  tombs  behind,  and  the  magnificent  desolation  and 
fertility  combined  of  the  plain  of  Thebes  in  front — lies  the 
temple  of  Dayr  el  Bayr,  or  the  “ Temple  to  the  North.”  I have 
already  spoken  of  the  ruined  avenue  of  sphinxes  which  led  to 
it  from  the  Memnonium ; near  it  is  the  or  sacred  in- 

closure, of  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  temples.  It  was 
supposed  to  communicate  with  the  tombs  of  the  kings,  and 
Dr.  Yates  says  with  the  tomb  of  Sammis.  Dr.  Richardson 
considers  it,  with  the  small  temple  of  Isis  behind  the  Memno- 
nium, to  be  one  of  the  most. ancient  fabrics  in  Thebes.  At  the 
end  of  the  avenue  of  sphinxes  formerly  stood  some  obelisks, 
which  you  can  barely  trace. 

The  gateway  of  the  temple  is  of  fine  architecture,  and  in 
several  of  the  chambers  there  are  granite  tablets,  or  steles^ 
which  have  been  described  by  Champollion. 

On  the  way  • to  the  ruins  of  Gournou  are  fragments  of  a 
colossal  statue,  formerly,  as  it  is  supposed,  of  Rameses  II. 
The  whole  way  is  strewn  with  fragments  of  statues. 

Returning  from  Gournou  by  moonlight,  with  the  guide, 
while  galloping  along  the  desert,  near  what  the  rubbish  and 
bricks  denoted  as  the  site  of  a ruined  town,  in  a most  desolate 
and  dreary  cemetery,  with  a few  turban  headstones,  my  horse 
started  at  a fierce  growl,  or  snarl,  from  an  animal  before  him* 
Riding  on,  I saw  a horrid  sight ; a wild  dog  had  just  been 
feeding  on  a carcass  of  what  seemed  in  the  moonlight  to  have 
been  the  body  of  a newly  buried  Arab,  but  it  might  have  been 
the  carcass  of  some  other  animal : and  this  sight,  so  common  in 
the  desert  outskirts  of  Egypt,  would  hardly  have  attracted  me 
or  the  horse,  had  not  another  more  ferocious  beast  just  ap- 
proached, and  whose  glaring  eyes,  and  whining,  screeching 

5^ 


106 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


howl,  told  me  that  it  was  the  hideous  hyena.  Two  vultures 
and  some  buzzards  were  shrieking  above,  and  stooping  down 
at  intervals.  The  dog  was  scarcely  willing  to  relinquish  his 
unhallowed  feast,  even  for  so  hideous  a visitor ; and,  while 
peeling  the  flesh  from  the  leg,  “as  ye  peel  the  fig  when  the 
fruit  is  fresh,”  the  hyena,  snapping  at  him,  seized  another  part 
of  the  carcass.  At  this  hideous  struggle,  horrid  as  it  was,  I 
gazed  an  instant,  but  I saw  a jackal,  who  had  snuffed  the 
carcass,  bounding  up,  and  as  instantly  away ; and  in  two 
minutes  a distant,  horrid  roar  came  upon  the  wind.  By  this 
time  the  guide  had  ridden  up  with  his  spear,  and  cried, 
“Howaga,  Assed  ! saba  ! ! a lion  ! a lion  !”  We  were  now 
with  both  our  horses  on  the  full  run  ; and  when  I thought  of 
all  the  tales  of  jackals  informing  lions  of  prey,  and  considered 
our  danger,  I could  almost  feel  the  lion  leaping  upon  my 
horse’s  back,  his  hot  breath  behind,  and  his  claws  tearing  the 
flesh  off  my  back.  But  our  terror  was  changed  into  joy  at 
seeing  in  the  distance  before  us  the  white  turbans  of  some 
horsemen,  and  we  soon  distinguished  the  tarbouches  and  dark 
robes,  and  gleaming  pistols  and  harness  of  two  Effendis  of 
Luxor,  of  the  Governor’s,  or  Kaschid’s  house,  who  had  been 
upon  a ride  over  to  Gournou,  and  were  returning  to  their 
boats  to  cross  the  river.  Our  galloping  up,  and  terror  at  the 
lion,  only  seemed  to  amuse  them,  as  their  attendants  prepared 
their  arms  ; but  the  old  Effendi  assured  me,  “ Mouch  assed^^^ 
(it  was  no  lion  :)  and  I thought  that  only  perhaps  the  horrid 
hyena,  or  wild  dog’s  howl,  had  even  magnified  the  guide’s 
fears  as  well  as  mine,  into  a lion’s  roar.  We  soon  reached  our 
boats. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Visit  to  Biban-el-Memlook. — Tombs  of  the  Kings. 


We  left  the  valley  of  Hadj  Achmed  in  the  evening  for  a moon- 
light ride  over  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings.  A more  wild, 
romantic  ride  I scarce  ever  had ; the  lone  mountain  and  the 
sterile  rocks  are  unlike  any  scenery  I have  ever  seen,  save  the 
Pass  of  the  Splugen  in  Switzerland,  and  the  gorges  of  rock, 
and  flint,  and  limestone  exhibit  such  desolation  of  nature  as  I 
have  never  seen  approached  in  any  scenery  in  the  world---the 
valley  of  Hinnom  itself  could  scarce  surpass  it.  Half  way  up 
the  mountain  we  reached  Lepsius’s  tomb,  so  called  because  he 
opened  it ; the  figures  are  fresh  and  beautiful,  and  paintings 
almost  fascinating;  the  entrance  is  a mere  hole  which  you 
have  to  squeeze  through.  Lepsius  has  taken  from  here  some 
figures  as  a reward  to  his  sovereign,  for  the  munificent  expense 
which  the  King  of  Prussia  incurred  to  make  these  excavations. 
Lepsius’s  firman  ran  in  the  express  words,  “ to  go  where  he 
pleased,  to  take  what  he  pleased,  and  do  what  he  pleased.” 
In  no  place  are  his  mutilations  more  apparent  than  in  the 
tombs  of  the  kings  ; the  finest  processions  interrupted,  the  best 
figures  cut  away,  while  the  wide,  gaping  space  remains  to  at- 
test the  vandalism  of  the  work.  In  the  same  spirit  of  obliging 
his  royal  master,  the  king,  Chevalier  Bunsen  dedicates  his 
work  to  him  in  return  for  his  scientific  commission.  Would 


108 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


that  the  use  made  of  that  expedition  in  the  hands  of  Lepsius 
and  Bunsen,  might  lead  to  a fair  exposition  of  Scripture  truth 
from  the  monuments,  instead  of  being  tortured  by  ex  'parte 
revelations  of  them  to  wild  chronological  conclusions. 

We  soon  started  again  on  foot  to  cross  over  the  mountain, 
and  a more  dreary,  solitary  walk  up  peaks,  along  precipices, 
fearful  gorges  below,  and  the  moon  shining  bright  as  day, 
could  not  be  imagined.  The  guide,  far  before  us,  was  leading 
the  way  with  his  long  spear ; and  the  boys,  trying  to  keep  the 
tinder,  looked  like  little  demons.  We  reached  a point  looking 
down  iiito  the  deserted  valley  of  Biban  el  Memlook,  and  soon 
arrived  at  No.  17,  Belzoni’s  celebrated  tomb,  and  the  Arab  boys 
having  wonderfully  preserved  their  fire,  we  were  soon,  with 
each  a lighted  candle  ill  his  hand,  descending  the  handsome 
staircase,  which  opens  from  the  wayside  of  the  desolate  moun- 
tain into  its  halls  of  paintings  and  histories.  This  beautiful 
work  of  the  Theban  sextons  has  been  admired  and  described 
again  and  again.  We  were  delighted  all  the  way  down  the 
staircase  with  the  processions  of  sacred  boats  carrying  the  soul 
along,  and  as  our  eyes  flew  from  one  beautiful,  or  mystical, 
or  expressive  object  to  another,  we  exclaimed  that  it  was  far 
the  finest  part  of  Egypt.  Certainly  of  all  the  monuments,  it  is 
best  preserved.  Soon  we  meet  the  name  of  Osiren,  the  father 
of  Sesostris,  for  whom  this  tomb  was  constructed ; then  follow 
the  mythological  processions — the  allegory  of  the  sun  through 
the  hours,  figures  of  the  winged  globe  and  the  scarabaei,  sacri- 
fices of  bulls  and  human  sacrifices,  female  forms  and  faces  on 
the  columns,  that  almost  induce  you  to  fall  in  love  with  their 
complexion  and  beauty.  I cannot  here,  for  want  of  time  and 
illustration,  go  through  the  halls  and  chambers  that  open  one 
upon  the  other.  The  paintings  are  copied  with  fine  exactness 


BELZONrS  TOMB. 


109 


in  Wilkinson’s  last  works,  and  Rosellini,  and  fully  described  in 
the  guide-books  of  Egypt.  Hours  were  spent  in  it  in  most 
rapturous  enjoyment.  In  some  places  the  painting  is  left  unfin- 
ished. In  the  celebrated  Hall  of  Beauty,  is  the  beautiful  zodiac 
which  decorates  the  ceiling,  and  the  sacred  boat  and  the  last 
judgment  where  Osiren  is  brought  before  Amenti,  and  his  offer- 
ings to  the  Theban  triad  are  rehearsed,  as  the  best  of  his  deeds 
to  recommend  him  to  benignity ; you  see  it  distinctly,  and  the 
fire  that  the  Arab  makes  on  the  floor  of  straw,  lights  up  the 
bright  colors  like  day.  The  names  of  several  Americans,  and 
names  from  every  part  of  the  world  are  read  on  the  walls 
in  the  chambers  after  the  second  descent ; Champollion  and 
Lepsius  have  defaced  it  by  their  destructions. 

To  see  the  tombs  is  to  see  the  completion  of  Egyptian  my- 
thology and  philosophy ; their  belief,  the  aim  of  their  life  and 
ambition.  They  seem  rather  a palace  than  a tomb  ; the  colors 
are  as  bright  as  if  of  yesterday. 

In  these  tombs  the  procession  of  four  different  people,  so 
often  described  as  four  Egyptians,  called  the  Rotno^  and  of 
three  other  species,  receives  additional  interest,  from  the  same 
name  having  been  found  by  Mr.  Layard  in  Nineveh. 

I recall  the  entering  descent  of  the  staircase,  the  serpents 
representing  Kneph,  the  spirit  of  good  taking  the  body,  the 
sacred  boats,  the  Theban  triad,  the  procession,  sacrifices  of  the 
bull,  &c.  The  beautiful  figures  of  the  Egyptian  women  and 
their  noble  expression  of  countenances  : — the  American,  Eng- 
lish and  French  names,  and  the  devastations  of  Lepsius  and 
Chtlmpollion  are  here.  Then  the  interior  room,  astronomical 
ceiling,  and  judgment  of  Amenti  follows. 

In  this  tomb  we  see  on  the  walls  figures  painted  of  the 
Egyptian  queens’  lovely  faces ; their  beautiful  dark  hue  pos- 


110 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


sessing  a novelty  to  us  from  the  land  of  pale  faces  that  en- 
hanced the  charms  these  pictures  display  as  well  as  the 
statues  of  the  budding  beauty  of  Isis  and  Athor,  which  we 
have  seen ; and  the  hue  left  by  the  sun  upon  their  cheeks, 
seemed  but  an  earnest  of  the  ardor  that  must  have  kindled 
their  hearts : 

“ The  imbrowning  of  the  fruit  that  tells 
How  rich  within  the  soul  of  sweetness  dwells.” 

Bruce’s  Harper’s  tomb,  which  is  No.  11,  suggests  the 
idea : 

“ And  oh  be  blessed,  ye  men  of  yore,  whose  toil 
Hath  for  her  use  scooped  out  of  Egypt’s  soil 
This  hidden  Paradise — this  mine  of  fanes. 

Gardens  and  palaces,  where  pleasure  reigns  ; 

In  a rich  sunless  empire  of  her  own. 

With  all  earth’s  luxuries  lighting  up  her  throne, 

A realm  for  mystery  made,  which  undermines 
The  Nile  itself,  and  ’neath  the  twelve  great  shrines 
That  keep  Initiation’s  holy  rite. 

Spreads  its  long  labyrinth  of  unearthly  light ; 

A light  that  knows  no  change. 

Its  brooks  that  run. 

Too  deep  for  dny,  its  gardens  without  end ; 

Where  soul  and  sense  by  turns  are  charmed,  surprised. 

And  all  that  bard  or  prophet  e’er  devised. 

For  man’s  Elysium,  priests  have  realized.”^ 

Alciphron. 

After  Belzoni’s  tomb  this  is  doubtless  the  most  beautiful. 
Though  the  name  designates  it  as  the  tomb  of  Amunmeses, 
and  his  queens,  it  was  built  also  for  another  monarch  of  the 
twenty-first  dynasty.  On  the  columns  figures  and  portraits  of 


BRUCE’S  HARPER’S  TOMB. 


Ill 


beautiful  ladies  speak  the  elegant  figures  and  features  of  the 
two  queens ; the  expression  of  Madame  the  Q.ueen  of  Amun- 
meses,  both  face  and  form,  fills  you  with  the  highest  delight 
— colors  so  fresh,  figure  so  tall,  and  graceful ; indeed, 
Madame  had  good  reason  to  be  proud  of  her  artist,  and  the 
artist  proud  of  his  subject.  This  must  be  a mistake  ! Ra- 
phael’s touch  is  here — it  was  some  master  of  his  period  that 
did  this ! Titian’s  colors  outlasted  by  thousands  of  years ! 
01  i art ! art ! you  are  eternal  here.  Some  of  the  paintings  are 
like  the  frescoes  of  Belzoni’s  tomb — some  are  intaglios.  Here 
I found  several  of  the  names  of  my  friends  of  Cairo,  Alexan- 
dria, and  Europe,  among  the  hieroglyphics  of  the  Pharaohs. 
The  harper  is  here  in  a little  room  like  a Catholic  shrine,  of 
which  there  are  numbers  in  this  tomb.  It  reminds  me  of  David 
and  his  minstrelsy.  • Stories  of  the  king  are  in  the  large  room, 
his  processions,  his  mythology,  his  judgment,  his  sarcophagus. 
In  one  room  there  are  seats  for  a divan^  like  a Roman  csenabu- 
lum,  the  purpose  of  which  I have  explained  in  another  place.* 
Here  were  feasts  in  the  sight  of  the  dead,  a sacrifice  of  a 
human  victim,  freshly  painted  stories,  and  paintings,  where  the 
master’s  hand  left  off,  to  recommence  to-morrow — and  the  mor- 
row took  thought  for  the  things  of  itself  ! Such  were  the  un- 
derground palaces  which  this  king  prepared  for  his  memory  ! 
The  broken  columns  attest  the  persevering  mutilations  of  Cham- 
pollion  and  Lepsius,  whom  the  inscriptions  of  German,  French, 
and  English  travellers  reprobate.  One  couplet  unjustly  ridi- 
cules Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson  : a space  is  filled  with  names  of 
persons  of  wealthier  position  from  New- York,  and  other  cities, 
and  England.  Here  you  may  see  the  oxen  treading  out  corn,t 

* See  lines  by  the  Author. 

t Deut.  2CXV.  4 ; Isaiah  ixx.  24  ; Matt.  iii.  12 ; Psalm  i.  4. 


112 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


labors  of  the  husbandmen,  gatherings  of  fruits  and  grain,  a 
monlv-ey  eating  fruit,  ploughs  drawn  by  oxen  two  abreast,  (the 
same  used  now  in  Egypt,)  orchards,  gardens,  field  sports,  arts, 
trades,  manufactures  ; sowers  carrying  seed  in  baskets  ; * men 
transporting  pillars  and  marble  sculpture ; a crowd  trans- 
porting a colossal  statue ; slaughtering  cattle,  casting  metals,  &c. 

The  tomb  of  Psammis,  son  of  Pharaoh  Necho,  is  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  in  Thebes.  It  is  309  feet  long,  and  contains 
the  scenes  of  early  Egyptian  history,  and  the  most  beautiful  and 
rich  paintings.  Most  of  all  the  tombs  it  was  covered  with  mys- 
tical and  idolatrous  figures.  The  sacred  boats,  and  sacred  ser- 
pents, with  their  legs  and  human  feet,  and  the  Theban  Triad, 
monsters,  mysteries,  astronomical  and  hierophantic  processions 
of  men  carrying  serpents,  boats,  mummies  lying  on  a couch 
with  serpents’  heads,  a barrow  resting  upon  a snake,  which 
people  carried,  emblematic  of  Kneph,  or  Cnuphis — the  good 
divinity ; the  king  offering  to  Anubis,  Aroeris,  Isis,  Osiris, 
Ammon,  Mouth,  Chons — are  all  seen  here.  In  one  room  is  a 
well,  or  pit,  which  Belzoni  explored  thirty  feet,  and  where 
doubtless  there  was  a subterranean  passage,  in  which  the 
priests  entered,  and  held  their  licentious  rites  after  the  tomb  was 
closed  up;  in  the  same  style  as  the  story  in  “Bel  and  the  Dra- 
gon” relates.  In  the  same  room  is  the  procession  of  Persians, 
Greeks,  Jews,  Egyptians,  who  are  here  to  attest  the  victories 
and  swell  the  triumph  of  Pharaoh  Necho.  The  negroes  are 
as  distinct  as  those  you  would  find  in  our  streets,  and  the 
Jews  as  well  marked  as  those  of  Chatham-street.  Twelve 
steps  lead  again  into  the  corridor,  in  which  the  names  of 
Nechao  and  Psammuthis  occur : Isis  gives  tokens  of  favor. 

* 1 Kings  xix.  17;  Deut.  xxii.  10;  Job  i.  14,  15;  xxiv.  3 ; Prov.  xx.  4; 
1 Sam.  xiv.  4. 


HIEROPHANTS— NEOPHYTES— INITIATION. 


113 


A handsome  chamber  follows  : the  king  is  offering  to  Anubis, 
Isis,  Osiris;  then  comes  a procession  of  captives,  twelve  long  de- 
corated square  columns,  on  which  I saw  the  name  of  a New- 
York  distinguished  scholar  a chamber,  with  the  hero  at  his 
devotions  ; a human  sacrifice,  with  some  of  the  heads  struck 
off ; and  one  mutilated  fallen  column  in  a room  for  couches. 

Every  variety  of  animals — elephants,  bears,  leopards, 
panthers,  lynxes,  giraffes,  are  seen  ; one  man  striking  a croco- 
dile ; a bull-fight ; one  man  numbering  cattle,  while  his  master 
and  men  are  practising  archery ; a number  of  people,  like 
Jews,  are  making  bricks.t  Here  Egyptian  overseers  are  over- 
looking the  laborers,  and  among  the  rest  a human  sacrifice. 
Time  will  not  suffice  to  enumerate  the  thousand  illustrations 
of  the  Bible  contained  in  these  tombs.  In  the  pages  of  Hengs- 
tenberg,  Yates,  and  Osborn,  they  are  referred  to  and  dwelt 
upon.  ' 

Forms  and  figures  of  beauty,  luxurious  couches,  and 
fauteuils,  as  if  inviting  to  rest ; arm-chairs,  and  chaises 
longues  on  a sort  of  pedestal,  ascended  by  steps ; a wooden 
bed-support ; tables,  with  lions’  paws  for  feet,  like  a modern 
piano  ; footstools,  all  are  here. 

Here  is  the  economy f of  the  householder;  the  butcher 
slaughtering  the  ox,  the  cook  cutting  up  the  joints  of  meat, 
the  caldron  suspended  over  the  fire,  the  beggar  at  the  door 
waiting  for  his  share. 

The  young  neophyte,  like  Orpheus,  passed  through  fire, 
water,  air ; and  the  danger,  being  magnified  to  try  his  courage, 
when  it  came  to  the  point  proved  to  be  no  danger  at  all.  It 
was  only  a humbug  to  try  his  j)luck  ; and  the  priest,  clapping 
him  on  his  back,  said,  “You  are  a good  fellow,  and  will  make 

* Dr.  A n t Hengstenberg.  t Mrs.  Romer. 

H 


114 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


one  of  us.  Here  is  wine  ; here  the  food  of  pigs,  calves,  goats, 
which  we  keep  for  food,  but  for  idols  ostensibly  to  the  herd.” 
This  Plato — this  Orpheus,  when  they  came  here,  went 
through.  Such  was  Mithra’s  cave ; such  the  night  myste- 
ries— the  Orphic  egg  of  the  great  temple ; such  Eleusis  and 
its  trials  ; such  Elysium  and  its  rewards.  The  priests  waved 
their  wands,  and  conjured,  for  the  herd’s  benefit,  monsters 
into  gods ; 

“ While  Reason  like  a grave-faced  mummy  stands, 

With  her  arms  swathed  in  hieroglyphic  bands.” 

These  things  account  for  the  mesmerism  which  we  see  in  the 
tombs  at  Thebes.  The  priest  is  there  represented  as  making 
the  mesmeric  passes  over  his  subject.  Their  great  Hermes  was 
Joseph,  who  gained  from  his  Chaldean  ancestors — which  they 
transmitted  through  the  family  of  Shem — that  knowledge  of 
astrology  and  other  subjects  which  were  probably  at  that  day 
imperfectly  known  in  Egypt.  He  was  their  great  Hermes. 
Such  were  the  secrets  of  the  priests  at  Heliopolis,  where  Joseph 
married  the  high  priest’s  daughter ; such  the  arcana  of  Mem- 
phis and  the  city  of  the  dead ; such  “ Diospolitan  craft  and 
Heliopolite  lore.” 

Among  their  mysteries  was  the  great  zodiac,  which,  the 
priest  interpreted  to  the  neophyte,  showing  the  track  of  the 
sun  among  the  spheres,  the  simple  laws  of  astronomy  which 
our  children  all  know,  the  feasts  in  honor  of  his  coming  in 
the  spring,  and  the  songs  of  sorrow  at  darkness,  the  mysteries 
of  Sais.  Here  also  was  their  secret  reign  of  eternal  life, 
which  we  see  the  priests  showering  over  the  king  at  Medinet 
Habou — a mere  sign  of  creation,  artfully  disguised  by  the 


MYSTERIES— ISIS. 


115 


priests  ; as  also  their  names  and  signs,  by  which  they  con- 
cealed plain  truths,  making  them  mysteries  for  the  vulgar. 

Moses  learned  these  from  the  sacred  college  who  presided 
over  the  twelve  shrines ; but  as  they  had  learned  much  from 
the  Hebrews — and  their  highest  astrological  knowledge  was 
from  Ham  (Canaan),  whom  they  adored,  as  well  as  Shem, 
under  the  name  of  Vulcan  or  Phtha,  the  first  of  their  gods — « 
Moses  gave  more  than  he  received.  Of  their  secret  rites, 
cheats,  of  animal  worship,  dbc.,  we  have  explained  all  that  in 
our  articles  on  the  tombs  of  the  kings. 

Here  the  mystic  wisdom  of  the  Egyptians  depicted  the 
history  of  the  soul ; the  winged  globe  with  a serpent ; rays  of 
glory  descending  from  above  ; the  deluge  of  the  banks  by  the 
sacred  river,  the  Nile  ; and  the  Theban  beetle,  as  he  comes 
forth  after  the  waters  have  passed  away,  and  the  first  sunbeam 
falls  upon  his  regenerated  wings.  Here  you  may  see  the 
mysterious  nature  of  animal  worship,  and  the  refined  theology, 
which  those  who  suppose  idolatry  is  impossible  to  man  think 
is  veiled  under  its  forms. 

Every  shrine  throughout  Egypt  was  consecrated  to  a 
particular  faith.  At  Esne  it  was  Latopolis,  the  worship  of 
liatona,  or  Buto,  or  Diana ; at  Panopolis  it  was  Mendes,  the 
goat  with  the  refulgent  star  on  his  breast ; at  Arsinoe  it  was 
the  crocodile,  with  a costly  gem  in  its  loathsome  ears,  and 
rich  bracelets  of  gold  encircling  its  feet. 

Here  were  the  emblems  of  death, — a lotus  branch  broken 
in  two,  and  a small  bird  winging  its  flight  from  the  spray. 

When  I stood  before  the  dark  black  statues  of  Isis  in  the 
sculpture  gallery  of  the  Louvre,  and  in  the  temple  at  Pompeii 
before  the  statue  of  white  marble,  I could  well  understand  the 


116 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


secret  influence  of  that  basaltic  sculpture  when  placed  before 
the  neophyte,  after  his  trials,  which  were  managed  by  ma- 
chinery, and  it  seemed  as  if  sweet  Nature  was  being  revealed 
to  him,  and  she  would  seem  like  a god. 

In  a mere  sketch  like  this,  it  is  a thankless  task  to  rehearse 

the  pictures  and  their  subjects  represented  in  these  tombs.  The 

artist,  by  his  labors,  has  brought  them  to  Europe,  and  to  us. 

They  remain  there,  tomhs  in  name,  in  purpose,  but  in  beauty 

and  preservation,  the  finest  national  monument  and  record 

that  the  earlier  nations  of  the  world  have  left.  But  a few 

years  since,  and  the  thresholds  of  some  had  not  been  crossed 

for  thirty  centuries ; that  granite  sarcophagus  contained  the 

body  of  a sovereign  of  ancient  Egypt ; and,  great  and  lordly 

as  he  was,  he  is  only  an  ornament  now  of  a glass  case  in  a 

British  museum,  glanced  at  as  a mummy!  and  forgotten: 

and  yet  he  has  accomplished  his  end,  and  is  preserved,  and  in 

the  hands  of  those  who  will  preserve  him.  His  horror  at 

being  damp^  moist,  unpleasant  hodyJ'‘  as  M.  Mantalini 

expressed  it,  was  only  a natural  one,  and  has  been'  well 

expressed  by  the  greatest  of  Anglo  minds,  Shakspeare  : | 

^ ' 

“ Aye  ; but  to  die,  and  go  we  know  not  where  ! 

To  lie  in  cold  obstruction,  and  to  rot ! 

This  sensible,  warm  motion  to  become 
A kneaded  clod ; and  the  delighted  spirit, 

To  bathe  in  fiery  floods,  or  to  reside 
In  thrilling  regions  of  thick  ribbed  ice  ; 

To  be  imprisoned  in  the  viewless  winds. 

And  blown  with  restless  violence  about  the  pendent  world  ! — 

’Tis  too  horrible  !” 

Then  let  us  not  so  ridicule  the  poor  Egyptian  sovereign,  i 
He  despised  the  mere  marble  monument  that  might  tell  his  vir- 


TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS 


117 


iues  to  the  world ; but  he  left  a monument  that  historied  his 
nation  to  the  latest  generation.  Greater  than  marble,  those  tem- 
ples ; than  letters  were,  these  tombs  of  those  kings.  And  if  he 
furnished  a subject  for  a literary  reunion  in  London,  he  kept  his 
body  nevertheless  for  3000  years.  Mummy  now,  he  was  nev- 
ertheless more  knowing,  in  one  respect,  than  any  sovereign  of 
the  world.  So  let  him  go.  Not  one  of  the  tens  of  thousands 
of  boobies  in  London,  of  louts  from  the  provincial  towns, 
but  has  stared  at  the  poor  mummy ; and  many  have  gaped 
with  open  eyes  at  his  tomb.  And  yet.  Oh  king,  live  for  ever ! 
That  is,  may  thy  body  last  as  was  thy  idea  of  existence.  The 
world  has  only  stood  six  thousand  years,  and  thy  body  and  thy 
tomb  have  lasted  two-thirds  of  it,  nearly,  and  probably  will  the 
rest.  Where  is  that  soul  of  thine.  Oh  king  ? — Oh  king,  where  ? 

The  tomb  of  Memnon,  No.  9,  shows  a long  series  of  paint- 
ings, representing  the  progress  of  the  sun  through  the  upper 
hemisphere,  (alluding  to  the  image  of  the  king  through  his 
lifetime,)  and  on  the  opposite  or  western  panels  the  progress  of 
the  sun  in  the  lower  hemisphere — (the  image  of  the  king 
after  his  death.)  Thus  Diospolitan  priesthood  shadowed  the 
history  of  the  soul,  drawing  an  analogy  between  moral  light 
and  darkness.  This  and  the  others  show,  that  at  this  era  the 
Egyptians  possessed  the  idea  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul. 
They  are  fully  decorated,  showing  that  the  Pharaohs  com- 
menced the  tomb,  carrying  it  on  with  their  reigns,  and  con- 
tinuing it  during  their  lifetimes. 

No.  1,  is  the  tomb  of  Rameses  IX.  One  of  the  inscrip- 
tions is  in  Ohampollion’s  Grammar,  p.  478.  No.  3,  is  of 
Rameses  III.  No.  4,  is  that  of  Rameses  VIII.  No.  6,  is 
the  tomb  of  Rameses  VII.  No.  5,  is  the  tomb  of  Chamed. 
[n  the  tomb  of  Rameses  VI.,  Champollion’s  Grammar,  p.  263,  ^ 


118 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


288,  translates  inscriptions.  No.  8,  according  to  Wilkinson,  is 
the  tomb  of  King  Pthamen.  No.  14,  was  the  tomb  of  Prince 
Raineses,  not  a king,  called  Rameses  Mondauk.  The  tomb 
of  Rameses  V.  has  also  copies  of  many  of  its  inscriptions  in 
the  Grammaire,  pp.  427,  186,  414,  425,  484,  483,  426,  519, 
459,  419,  490.  I read  most  of  the  inscriptions  of  his 
titles  and  history  by  its  aid. 

No.  7,  as  some  say,  is  that  of  Rameses  IV.,  or  according 
to  Wilkinson,  Rameses  II. ; here,  baking  in  its  perfection  is 
represented.  In  the  kitchen  scenes,  I saw  represented  many 
of  the  facts  of  Scripture  of  which  Hengstenberg  speaks.  In 
the  altars  I saw  those  to  which  Champollion,  Rosellini,  and 
Osborne  have  called  our  attention.  The  baker  carrying  the 
fruits  on  his  head,  I distinctly  made  out,  illustrating  the 
butler’s  and  baker’s  dreams,  and  many  other  passages  of 
Scripture."^  No.  14,  the  King  Pthasephthah,  who  inherited  in 
right  of  his  Q,ueen  Taosri.  I saw  the  intaglio  so  celebrated, 
the  Pharaoh  attended  by  Anubis,  and  broken  sarcophagus. 
In  No.  16,  I entered  the  tomb  of  Rameses  I.,  the  father 
of  Osiren,  and  grandfather  of  Sesostris.  What  a contrast  to 
that  of  his  son ! The  tomb  of  Siptha  was  commenced  by 
that  monarch  with  great  magnificence,  but  he  never  lay  in  it. 
It  was  finished  by  his  successor  Remeri,  whose  sarcophagus 
was  there.  An  author  thinks  that  this  Siptha,  whose  queen 
was  Taorsi,  or  Thaosr,  and  whose  tomb  I visited  among  those 
of  the  Hadj  Achmed,  and  who  was  the  last  of  the  eighteenth 
dynasty,  was  the  Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus.  Nolan  gives  the 
same  reason  for  its  being  Amunoph.  Of  the  four  tombs  on 
the  west  valley  of  Thebes,  of  which  Wilkinson  speaks,  that 


* See  Rosellini. 


TOMBS. 


119 


.of  Amunoph  III.  is  the  best.  These,  though  more  distant,  are 
as  well  worth  visiting  as  those  we  have  seen. 

In  the  valley  El  Assassif  are  the  tombs  of  the  priests. 

The  tomb  of  Rochscere  bears  the  cartouche  of  Thothmes 
IV.,  the  fifth  king  of  the  eighteenth  dynasty.  Rochscere 
was  a high  court  officer  of  that  king.  You  may  see  a fine 
picture  in  the  tomb,  of  men  with  the  heard  and  physiognomy 
of  the  Hehreios^  making  brick  and  some  transporting  clay,  some 
mingling  it  with  stone ; some  taking  out  bricks  and  placing 
them  in  rows,  exactly  as  in  a modern  brick  furnace ; others 
having  a yoke  of  wood  on  their  backs  tied  with  ropes,  taking 
bricks  to  burn.  Four  persons  are  seen  who  are  evidently 
Egyptians  in  form  and  color.  Rochscere  was  overseer  of  the 
public  buildings,  and  had  charge  of  all  the  works.*  See  what 
is  said  of  Egyptian  aliens,  Deut.  xxix.  10.  Hengstenberg 
alludes  to  this  tomb  in  his  work. 

In  a part  of  one  tomb  is  a history  referring  to  the  disper- 
sion of  mankind,  proving  that  the  Egyptians  possessed  from 
the  foundation  of  their  mythology  the  Mosaic  history  of  the 
Hebrews — that  they  acknowledged,  we  hence  infer — Shem  as 
their  first  god,  Pthah  or  Vulcan.  One  /o^w5-marked  cartouche 
represents  the  name  of  Egypt ; another,  Javan  or  Japhet ; 
another  Ham,  or  Cush  or  Canaan,  whom  they  worshipped,  and 
Misraim  his  son,  whence  the  settlement  of  the  Nile  and  name 
of  Egypt,  Misr. 

Time  will  not  permit  me  to  enumerate  the  tombs  of  the 
priests  and  private  individuals,  which  are  scattered  throughout 
the  vast  necropolis.  Some,  far  the  most  ancient  in  Thebes, 
are  nearly  all  fully  described  by  Wilkinson  in  his  hand-book. 
Their  beauty  is  not  inferior  to  those  of  the  kings,  and  the 


* See  Numbers,  jd.  4. 


120 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


light  they  throw  on  the  customs  of  their  country  and  Scripture 
^ truth — full  of  distinctness. 

Thebes. — But  we  cannot  contemplate  the  plain  of  Thebes 
as  it  is  now,  and  as  the  English  sportsman  does  (who  comes 
up  the  Nile  to  shoot,  and  missing  his  club  and  London  life, 
thinks  it  a great  “ bore”),  who  gazes  at  its  ruins  as  so  many  bits 
of  rubbish — we  must  on  the  contrary  carry  away  from  Thebes 
a picture  in  our  mind,  a picture  complete,  as  it  once  was, 
complete  as  we  would  from  London,  or  Rome,  or  Naples. 
Thus  you  can  look  at  Athens,  and  why  not  at  Thebes  ? We 
have  travellers’  books  and  descriptions  from  Homer  down,  and 
can  identify  them,  Greek  geographers  with  French  and  English. 
Now  let  us  see  if  we  can  have  Thebes,  and  on  our  horse  we 
will  have  a morning  ride.  We  start  from  our  boats  along  the 
avenue  of  Crio  sphinxes,  which  lead  from  the  temple  of 
Luxor  in  Diospolis.  Along  through  these  sphinxes,  the  priests 
carried  the  sacred  ark  and  the  statues  of  their  gods,  in  the 
immense  Serpentine  road,  which  formed  a magic  circle,  leading 
around  this  side  of  the  river,  till  it  passed  through  all  the 
temple  and  reached  the  bank  again,  completing  the  magic 
circle,  and  there  crossed  over  to  Luxor.  Our  road  along  the  ^ 
sphinxes  leads  us  to  the  two  colossal  statues  erected  by  and 
bearing  the  name  of  Amunoph  III.,  called  Shamy  and  Damy 
by  Arabs,  from  one  of  which,  called  the  vocal  statue  of  Memnon, 
a low  musical  sound,  like  the  note  of  a soft  ^olian  harp,  with  the 
clanging  metallic  stroke  as  of  a bell  came  forth,  as  the  morn- 
ing light  first  shone  upon  it.  From  those  which  stand  twenty 
yards  apart  on  each  side  of  the  avenue  of  sphinxes,  you  pro- 
ceed along  through  a finer  row  of  sphinxes,  and  sitting  figures 
I of  basalt,  till  you  come  to  a grand  pile  with  a magnificent  pro-  ^ 
pylon  and  figures  of  the  gods  and  Sesostris.  This  is  described  j , 


THEBES  AS  IT  WAS. 


121 


as  the  Memhonium.  Leaving  this,  we  turn  northwards 
(through  what  is  now  the  valley  Assassif  of  the  Arabs,  and 
strewed  with  torsos  and  fragments  of  enormous  statues), 
through  a row  of  noble  statues  of  the  Amenophs,  Sesostrises, 
Osirens,  &c.,  and  at  the  end  of  this  causeway  come  to 
a splendid  gateway,  and  reach  the  above  described  Northern 
Dair,  and  passing  through  a long  avenue  of  sphinxes,  we 
come  to  a number  of  obelisks.  By  an  avenue  of  sphinxes  we 
go  to  the  two  colossal  sitting  statues  of  Sesostris,  and  reach 
the  old  palace  of  Rameses  II.  at  Gournou.  Gournou  seen 
(described  above),  we  return  to  the  water’s  edge  by  the  avenue 
of  Crio  sphinxes  to  the  great  propylon  of  Karnac,  crossing  the 
river  by  bridge  or  boats,  as  the  mode  may  then  have  been. 

Had  you  been  here  in  the  time  of  Shishak,  you  might  have 
seen  the  1200  chariots,  and  60,000  horsemen,  reviewed  upon 
these  plains ; and  with  the  priests  carrying  sacred  emblems  at 
their  head,  passing  through  these  routes,  and  embarking  for 
Joudah  Amelek^'‘*  or  Judea,  or  Syria;  or  returning  vic- 
torious with  their  victirhs.  Had  you  been  here  in  the  time  of 
Sesostris  you  might  have  seen  his  triumphal  car,  with  kings 
of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  chained ; and  bearing  spoils 
from  India,  cameleopards,  and  trees  and  fruits  of  the  tropics, 
(you  may  still  see  them  painted  in  the  Memnonium,)  gems  and 
gold,  and  ivory,  gracing  his  triumph.  Had  you  been  here,  in 
the  time  of  the  Trojan  war,  you  might  have  seen  the  elegant 
form  of  Memnon,  standing  erect  in  his  car,  and  his  200 
chariots,  and  20,000  horsemen,  which  were  levied  to  accom- 
pany Achilles  to  the  plains  of  Troy,  and  who  only  excelled 
him  in  beauty  on  those  plains.t  Or,  at  almost  any  great  fes- 

♦ See  records  in  Karnac,  Champollion,  and  Wilkinson. 

t Homer. 

6 


122 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


tival  of  Osiris,  or  of  the  overflow  of  the  Nile,  at  almost  any  of 
the  feasts  of  the  regeneration  of  the  sun,  or  at  the  astronomi- 
cal feasts,  you  might  have  seen  the  Potiphars  carrying  their 
ark,  and  emblems  peculiar  to  their  order,  through  the  royal 
street,  which  we  have  just  left,  till  they  re-entered  Karnac 
with  songs  of  rejoicing,  and  music  of  the  cymbals,  and  harps 
and  drums.  Perhaps  it  is  only  a procession  of  hierophants 
that  greets  you  now,  and  the  neophytes,  clothed  in  white, 
liave  learned  mysteries  which  Moses  learned,  and  are  about 
to  be  consecrated  ; the  priests  of  Thoth  are  bearing  the  sacred 
books  of  the  Memnonium,  or  the  lamps  of  the  sacred  fire. 
But  we  can  fancy  here  for  hours,  and  have  our  fancies  aided 
by  history. 

Here,  where  colors  seemed  first  taught,  sublime  art  has 
placed  four  thousand  years  ago  pictures  that  are  fresh  and 
bright  to  this  day.  What  beauty  of  art,  what  interest  of 
history,  still  attracts  to  these  wonderful  paintings  ! The  place 
seems  not  a tomb,  but  a festal  hall.  What  a list  of  beautiful 
stories  these  paintings  tell ! what  a glory  of  art ! what  a scene 
of  delight  the  twelve  chambers  and  corridors  of  Belzoni,  and 
the  other  tombs ! 

One  of  the  most  happy  conclusions  with  reference  to  the 
records  in  the  monuments  of  Egypt  is  the  confirmation  which 
they  receive  from  the  new  discoveries  at  Khorsabad,  Kuyun- 
jek,  and  Nimroud,  by  Mr.  Layard ; and  the  translation  of  the 
inscriptions  by  Mr.  Birch,  and  the  other  distinguished  scholars 
of  the  Asiatic  Society,  who  have  proceeded  in  that  interpreta- 
tion of  the  cuneiform  inscription,  to  which  Major  Rawlinson 
I found  the  key.  Alike  with  the  Assyrian  names  found  in 
Karnac,  names  of  Assyrian  tribes,  as  the  Rotno,  which  is  in 
Belzoni’s  tomb,  &c.,  there  are  Assyrian  coincidences  discov- 


ASSYRIA  AND  EGYPT. 


123 


ered  in  the  statistical  and  other  tables  at  Karnac ; and  also, 
still  more  interesting,  several  cartouches  newly  laid  open  in 
the  ruins  of  Nineveh.  The  names  of  Shishak,  his  sons 
Shapud  and  Osorchon ; Nimrot,  the  son  of  Osorchon  II.  As 
to  these  names  of  the  Egyptian  kings  of  the  twenty-second 
dynasty  being  found  in  Karnac,  it  is  certain  that  most  inti- 
mate connection  existed  between  Assyria  and  Egypt  at  that 
ame,  Solomon  having  previously  married  the  Egyptian* 
monarch’s  daughter,  and  Jeroboam  finding  refuge  at  Shishak’s 
court.  Bible  history,  and  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  monuments, 
prove  that  the  countries  were  at  peace ; probably  the  Egyp- 
tian monarchs  caused  Egyptian  artists  to  execute  their  names 
in  the  sacred  characters. 

Layard’s  discovery  relates  perhaps  to  an  occupation  of 
Egypt  by  Assyrians.  The  likeness  of  Ken  and  Astarte  of 
the  Egyptians  is  illustrated. 

In  the  British  Museum  ‘are  the  flowers  worshipped '*^by 
Rameses  III.,  the  Assyrian  Egyptian  goddess.  On  a Turin 
tablet,  she  is  called  Alste,  or  Adesh. 


* 1 Kings  xi.  40. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Hermonthis  or  Herment. — Adventure  with  a bull. — Esne. — Governor. — Temple. — 

Alines.  — Zodiacs.  — Arab  songs. — ^Arnaouts.  — Cataracts.  — Philae.  — Nubia. 

— Abyssinia. 

Not  far  from  Thebes  on  our  way  to  Esne  is  another  Roman 
temple  of  Herment  or  Hermonthis,  built  by  Cleopatra,  in  honor 
of  her  having  given  birth  to  her  son,  Csesarion.  Reto,  the 
second  of  the  Hermonthite  trinity,  is  giving  birth  to  Hospire, 
the  child  of  Reto  by  Mandoo.  Cleopatra  is  represented  ador- 
ing ^he  Hermonthian  bull ; Apollo  or  Mandoo,  and  Jupiter 
Ammon  were  worshipped  here.  It  is  of  beautiful  archi- 
tecture, and  the  pleasant  conviction  I have  experienced 
at  Dendera  and  Esne,  of  the  completeness  of  Scripture 
truth,  has  made  every  Roman  site  interesting  to  me.  The 
zodiac  is  hardly  less  interesting  than  those  of  Dendera  and 
Esne.  We  were  walking  along  here,  when  we  met  with  an 
incident  which  accorded  well  with  the  worship  of  the  place. 
A ferocious  bull  had  just  broken  the  rope  that  had  fastened 
him  to  the  stump  of  a palm-tree,  and  one  of  my  boatmen  with 
his  bright  red  tarbouch,  seemed  to  arouse  his  indignation. 
The  hideous  roar  with  which  he  bounded  at  him,  enlisted 
alike  my  fears  and  interest  for  the  poor  Berber,  who,  turned  to- 
wards him,  stood  awaiting,  as  I thought,  transfixed  with  fear 
and  resignation.  The  huge  animal  was  tearing  up  the  ground, 


ADVENTURE  WITH  A BULL. 


125 


first  with  one  horn  and  then  with  the  other,  and  nearing  him 
every  instant.  (He  was  the  very  largest  of  his  species,  and 
might  have  been  a good  representative  of  Apis,  his  ancestor,  | 
and  all  of  these  animals  are  fine  at  Hermonthis,  and  of  a noble  ' 
breed  of  cattle.)  But,  preserving  his  dignity  as  a deity  but 
poorly,  the  worshipped  divinity  of  Hermonthis  (in  times  when 
the  Greek  Strabo  voyaged  here)  was  now  kicking  up  the  dust, 
and  nearing  every  leap  the  poor  Arab,  who  was  already  in  my 
fancy  gored.  We  held  our  breaths  in  intense  excitement.  I 
wished  for  my  gun  to  put  a ball  through  the  animal’s  heart ; 
•but  the  Arab  was  wiser  than  we  thought  him,  for  as  the 
animal  was  within  two  feet  of  him,  he  jumped  directly  at  his 
front,  and  grasped  his  horns.  It  was  done  so  quickly  and 
handsomely,  and  changed  our  intense  eagerness  for  his  escape 
into  such  a hearty  roar  of  laughter  at  his  agility,  that  I could 
only  compare  it  to  Waterton’s  escape  from  an  alligator,  by 
leaping  on  his  back  and  riding  him ; or  a negro  dodging  a 
shark  in  Port  Royal  harbor.  But  he  held  the  bull  fast,  though 
he  pawed  and  leaped  ferociously,  till  one  of  the  Arabs  unloos- 
ing the  strip  of  cotton  from  his  tarbouch,  which  formed  his 
turban,  tied  his  feet  together,  and  bound  him  fast  to  a date-tree. 

The  scenery  from  Thebes  to  Esne  has  some  bold  character- 
istics, and  one  rock  over  the  river,  upon  which  stands  a con- 
vent, has  outlines  of  beauty  which  would  vie  with  the  High- 
land precipices  of  Scotland.  The  boatmen  were  highly 
excited  at  reaching  Esne ; my  reis  having  a wife  and  chil- 
dren there,  and  the  rest  all  “ intimate  friends.”  They  were 
singing  all  night  to  the  gals  of  Esne,  almost  in  the  same 
way  that  the  sailor  does  to  the  New- York  gals  when  bound 
home.  As  for  ourselves,  we  were  too  much  interested  in  the 
zodiacs,  and  bishops  and  temples  of  Esne,  to  feel  their  enthu- 


126 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


siasm,  butwe  had  some  curiosity  to  see  the  Alme  dance  in  its 
perfection,  by  women  who  had  been  favorites  of  Ibrahim  and 
Abbas  Pacha.  Tiie  temple  was  the  first  sight ; the  capitals  are 
beautiful,  made  of  the  lotus  leaf;  but  how  it  looks  after 
Thebes  ! What  a half  Roman,  half  Egyptian  species  of  archi- 
tecture ; and  then  the  columns  covered  with  dog  deities,  and 
that  disgusting  animal  worship  in  the  sculptures,  showing  such 
degeneracy  of  art  under  those  vile  Ptolemies  and  Emperors. 
It  was  the  city  of  Latopolis,  city  of  the  Fish,  who  was  worship- 
ped here  ; some  say  of  Latona,  or  Bubastis,  or  Diana.  Cer- 
tainly the  chaste  Diana  is  not  the  deity  here  now,  neither  do 
travellers  come  here  to  worship  her.  The  eighteen  hundred 
ladies  Avho  are  sent  up  here,  by  Mohammedan  Mollahs, 
virtuous,  pious  priests  of  Turkdom,  would  tell  you,  that  they 
did  not  knoiu  any  such  lady.  The  temple  has  been  cleared 
out,  though  huts  surround  it,  and  you  must  stoop  to  enter.  It 
is  used  as  a warehouse  by  the  Pacha.  Several  mummies  are 
lying  here,  but  they  would  not  allow  us  to  have  one.  Tlie 
view  of  Esne  towards  the  mountains  after  walking  through  the 
town,  is  exquisite  ; it  has  a rich  fertile  plain  and  many  beauti- 
ful situations.  On  the  opposite  side  is  a sand  bank,  and  a troop 
of  horsemen  with  the  bright  trappings  of  a Turk  distingue,  are 
starting  to  cross  the  desert  of  Ababdie  and  thence  to  Berenice, 
and  across  the  Red  Sea.  In  the  burning  sun  their  weapons  and 
the  sand  shone  with  a powerful  glare.  Berenice  had  great 
commerce  once,  and  with  Kosseir  was  the  great  port  for  cross- 
ing the  Red  Sea.  I liad  seen  in  the  temple  the  tendency  of 
Roman  art  here,  which  had  even  degraded  Egyptian,  and 
found  all  the  doubts  urged  by  Fourier  futile.  The  temple 
bears  the  works  of  most  corrupt  mythology,  and  dog-headed 
divinities  cover  its  walls. 


ESNE.— ALM^S. 


127 


On  the  portico  of  Esne,  whose  astronomical  zodiac  is  judged 
to  be  far  older  than  that  of  Dendera,  I distinctly  read  the 
names  of  the  Roman  Emperors  Claudius  and  Antoninus  Pius, 
with  which  Champollion  fixed  irrevocably  the  age  of  the 
zodiacs,  and  refuted  the  infidelity  of  Dupuis  and  his  colleagues, 
that  then  fashionable  infidelity  in  Paris,  which  is  not  respec- 
table now  even  there : but  Letronne,  in  his  Critical  and 
Archaeological  Observations  upon  the  Zodiacs,”  has  sufficiently 
gone  over  the  ground,  and  with  his  able  classical  archaeological 
learning,  given  much  interest  to  a question,  which  requires 
only  a boy’s  glance  at  the  temple  and  architecture  of  Esne  to 
settle.  In  his  notice  of  the  zodiac  painted  upon  the  mummy 
coffin  of  Trajan’s  time,  he  proves  that  all  the  zodiacs  date 
from  that  Emperor’s  time. 

The  evening  of  our  arrival  at  Esne  was  set  apart  by  my 
friend’s  dragoman  for  a great  exhibition  of  the  Alm4s.  So- 
phia,  of  whom  Warburton  speaks  so  feelingly,  had  grown  old. 
Coutchuchany  was  not  to  our  liking,  as  being  too  popular ; 
but  Hanim  seeming  to  combine  a certain  kind  of  reputation 
with  a not  too  great  publicity,  to  her  house  we  accordingly 
repaired,  to  see  a fantasia.  Several  girls  had  assembled 
there — Circassian,  Arab,  Turkish ; some  pretty,  and  dressed 
in  loose  trousers  and  closely  fitting  jackets,  their  heads  orna- 
mented with  abundance  of  gold  coins.  Their  singing  or 
chanting  rather  pleased  us  ; it  was  a sad  and  interesting  tune. 
Their  dancing  I could  never  greatly  admire,  though  some  of 
their  motions  are  difficult  and  extraordinary.  The  quantity 
of  aqua  vitce.  they  drank  positively  disgusted  us ; and  the  only 
thing  at  all  interesting,  was  the  shrewdness  of  a member  in 
purloining  the  wine  and  brandy  which  had  been  provided 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


128' 

from  my  friend’s  boat  for  the  dance,  before  it  reached  tho 
dancing-room. 

Qur  curiosity  upon  the  subject  led  to  the  explanation  by  a 
little  Georgian  girl,  whose  dancing  and  singing  was  far  better 
than  that  of  any,  as  to  how  it  was  disposed  of.  She  could  not 
speak  a word  of  any  language  we  could  understand.  She 
had  been  banished  from  Cairo  or  Alexandria,  as  the  eighteen 
hundred  women  of  Esne  were,  for  too  unrestrained  construction 
of  Turkish  conjugal  relations ; but  had  been  brought  up  in 
Stamboul,  and  was  a present  from  a Bey  there.  She  succeeded 
in  showing  us,  by  the  most  expressive  gestures  and  flashings  of 
the  eye,  that  our  dragoman  had  given  the  stores  of  wine  and 
brandy  to  Hanim^  as  a gift  of  friendship ; and  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  her  story,  looked  into  my  face,  and  uttered,  “ Wallah 
thayeeh  ” — “ By  Allah  ! that  is  a good  joke,  is  it  not  ?” 

The  Arnaouts  scattered  through  Esne  are  the  terror  of  all ; 
but  I saw  only  ten  or  a dozen  prowling  about,  and  am  rather 
inclined  to  think  that  Warburfon’s  romantic  incident  with 
them  borders  upon  the  imaginative.  Those  I saw  gathered 
around  the  Governor’s  house  were  a wild-looking  set  of  dogs, 
not  at  all  doing  justice  to  their  brother  Albanians  who  had  so 
charmed  me  in  the  Gulf  of  Corinth.  As  to  Thackeray’s* 
recommendation,  that  Mohammed  Ali  should  serve  them  up 
the  same  sort  of  breakfast  that  he  did  the  Mamelukes,  I 
think  it  would  be  a very  foolish  affair,  for  the  poor  Greeks 
who  are  scattered  through  Egypt  have  the  worst  enemies  in 
their  own  vices  and  passions. 

The  Bishop  of  Esne  is  one  of  the  noble  pillars  of  the  Chris- 
tian Church  of  Egypt.  He  has  enjoyed  a high  reputation  for 
many  years ; and  I have  heard  many  Copts  speak  of  him  in 


* Comhill  to  Cairo. 


ESNE. 


129 


terms  of  affectionate  respect.  The  convent  church  is  conspicu- 
ous here.  He  has  educated  many  of  the  young  Copts,  who 
have  perfected,  under  the  Rev.  Mr.  Leider,  and  his  lady,  at 
Cairo,  their  knowledge  of  true  Christianity  and  English. 

Just  out  of  Esne  are  tombs,  some  of  Christian  martyrs,  and 
doubtless  of  some  who  fled  from  Medinet  Habou. 

The  Pacha’s  daughter  is  here,  in  her  steamboat ; and  we 
take  a walk  down  the  sands  to  look  at  the  plain  of  Esne  be- 
hind. She  is  now  old,  but  has  been  a handsome  woman. 

My  friend  took  my  firman  and  called  upon  the  Governor, 
who  received  him  kindly,  stocked  his  boat  with  coal,  and 
refused  to  receive  any  money ; which  your  dragoman  always 
interprets  as  a polite  invitation  for  you  to  send  him  in  return  a 
watch,  or  a gun  or  pistol,  or  powder  flask.  So,  you  see,  the 
Turkish  Pachas  are  knowing  fellows,  and  in  “cutehess”  they 
might  almost  compare  with  the  “ down-easters  ” of  our  own 
land.  I have  seen  several  instances  of  this  peculiar  kind 
of  generosity,  for  which  these  Turkish  Governors  are  distin- 
guished ; and,  not  being  overstocked  with  watches,  guns,  or 
pistols,  I let  the  Governor”  alone.  My  friend  was  welcome 
to  my  firman,  and,  with  a very  expensive  powder  flask,  and 
some  few  pounds  of  shot  and  powder,  managed  to  get  off 
from  the  Governor  pretty  well : so  I did  not  get  the  laugh  on 
him  I expected. 

Among  the  songs  of  the  Almehs,  were  many  which  have 
been  translated  by  St.  John,  Warburton  in  his  “Crescent  and 
the  Cross,”  and  Lord  Lindsay  ; and  though  they  have  drawn 
somewhat  from  fancy,  I would  not  attempt  to  improve  them. 
The  famous  one  of  the  Arab  girl  chiding  her  lover,  he  has 
dwelt  upon.  There  was  one  in  particular  that  struck  me, 
where  she  says  her  lover  has  gone  on  a far  pilgrimage  to 


130 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


Mecca.  It  is  accompanied  by  a chorus  of  several  voices  to 
the  sound  of  the  Sakia,  and  with  a dance  is  significative  of 
the  ideas. 

Esne  is  the  last  frontier  town  in  Upper  Egypt.  The  last 
of  the  properly  Egyptian  temples  are  at  Edfou ; and,  though 
we  wished  to  see  sacred  Philae,  Elephantina,  the  colossi  of 
Ipsamboul,  the  temples  of  Dair,  and  the  beautiful  piles  of 
Dakke  ; still  the  heat  of  Esne — for  it  was  now  February — and 
a pain  in  the  eyeballs,  that  led  me  to  fear  a touch  of  oph- 
thalmia, made  me  anxious  to  return,  as  there  was  nothing 
that  I so  prized  as  my  eyes.  Turning  back  from  the  grottoes 
of  Eilythias,  which  have  been  well  described  by  travellers, 
where  the  threshing  song  is  represented : 

“ Tread  ye  out  for  yourselves. 

Tread  ye  out  for  yourselves, 

The  straw  ; 

For  men  who  are  your  masters, 

The  grain,”  &c.; 

we  turned  back  to  Thebes,  already  half  unexplored.  Oppo- 
site the  town  of  Esne,  and  a short  distance  above,  stretches  a 
wide  plain,  and  here  we  saw  a caravan  starting  on  the  great 
desert.  A Turkish  officer  at  Esne,  who  was  with  the  Pacha’s 
daughter,  was  with  them  ; and  the  beautiful  trappings  of  his 
suite  were  glittering  in  the  sun.  They  .were  crossing  down 
to  the  great  oasis. 

The  scenery  above  Esne  is  peculiarly  beautiful,  the  moun- 
tain rocks  are  distinct,  and  contrast  with  the  desert  most 
admirably. 

A traveller,  who  had  been  to  Ipsamboul,  one  of  our  Scotch 
friends,  who  left  us  above  Esne,  on  his  return  to  Alexandria, 


ABYSSINIA. 


131 


told  me,  were  he  going  again  he  would  not  go  above  Thebes. 
One  certainly  gets  all  in  Karnac  that  any  one  can  find  of 
stupendous  grandeur.  I had  seen  there,  and  at  Dendera 
and  Esne,  memorials  of  the  palmiest  days  of  ancient  Egypt, 
and  the  eighteenth  dynasty.  I had  seen  the  decline  from 
that  period.  I had  seen  the  latest,  even  down  to  Roman  sway, 
and  began  to  think  of  returning. 

We  saw  here  some  of  the  Bishareh,  who  diifer  from  the 
Ababdie  Arabs,  both  of  whom  are 'to  be  seen  here  in  the  bazaar. 

Abyssinia. — 

“ By  Meroe’s  isle,  whose  shadow  half  way  falls.” 

Above  Egypt,  of  which  we  have  reached,  at  Esne,  the  last 
frontier  town,  lie  many  places  of  interest.  PhilaB,  with  its 
temples ; Elephantina,  Dadour,  and  Dehod ; Kalabshe  Dirr, 
Guerf  Hassan,  Korosko,  and  Ipsamboul ; Dakke,  the  stronghold 
of  Egyptian  magic;  Wady  Haifa,  where  not  only  Burckhardt, 
Belzoni,  and  Lord  Lindsay,  but  thousands  of  English  travellers 
have  recorded  their  names  ; Aboosimboul,  with  its  colossi,  its 
temple  of  Hathor.  Wady  Sibou,  and  those  places  upon  which 
the  guide-books  are  scant,  the  history  little  known,  the  history 
little  read ; — all  these,  as  well  as  those  between  us  and 
the  first  Cataract,  the  beautiful  temple  of  Edfou — the  most 
beautiful  in  Egypt ; the  quarries  of  Hajjar  Silsilis,  and 
the  quarries  of  Egypt’s  architecture,  the  cataracts — all  these 
I leave  to  my  readers,  and  the  interesting  works  of  War- 
burton  and  Lord  Lindsay.  Nubia,  Dongola,  Sennaar,  and 
then  comes  Abyssinia,  with  its  capital.  Meroe,  where  Can- 
dace of  the  New  Testament  reigned  [Acts).  Hoskins  has 
described  it  in  his  Ethiopia.  Beyond,  the  country  is  rich  from 
its  Christian  history ; the  king  of  Thau,  Sabela  Selasse,  cails 


132 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


himself  descendant  of  Solomon  and  Q,ueen  Sheba.  All  this, 
and  a hippopotamus  hunt  at  Khartoum,  the  junction  of  the 
White  and  Blue  Nile,  I leave,  as  well  as  the  giraffe  hunting 
in  the  mountains  of  Gondar,  to  English  and  American  * 
travellers. 

After  this,  we  would  speak  of  the  source  of  the  White 
Nile,  which  a friend  of  mine,  M.  D’Abaddie,  has,  with  his 
two  brothers,  all  French  gentlemen  of  fortune,  been  employed 
in  investigating,  and  which  he  has  pretty  conclusively  settled. 
He  has  spent  ten  years  there,  and  his  results  have  far  excelled 
those  of  Major  Harris.!  The  region  of  El  Hamyra,  where  he 
traces  the  source  of  the  White  Nile,  has  been  fully  laid  down 
before  the  Geographical  Society ; and  whoever  will  investigate 
the  subject,  will  find  in  the  discussions  of  Dr.  Beke  and  Mr. 
Ayrton,  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  London,  all  upon  the 
subject.  His  Christian  discoveries  are  full  of  interest,  and  he 
denies  the  existence  of  cannibals,  or  anthropophagi^  in  that 
country.  He  describes  his  difficulties  in  that  region  most 
picturesquely ; the  impossibility  of  procuring  provisions  par- 
ticularly— where  in  one  place  he  could  not  procure  even  a 
sheep.  I have  been  much  interested  in  his  accounts,  as  well 
as  in  those  of  some  Frenchmen  I met  in  Cairo,  who  had  just 
returned.  Shendy,  and  its  king  Tiger,  Shenda,  Dongola. 
Sennaar,  and  Khartoum,  in  Nubia,  where  the  Pacha’s  garrisons 
are ; the  Blue  Nile  and  White  Nile,  have  been  fully  described. 

There  is  another  Abyssinian  traveller,!  of  a noble  family 

* Dr.  Anderson  last  year  went  to  Wady  Haifa. 

t His  exploration  of  the  Diddesa  branch,  which  is  separated  by  the  Dolmus 
from  the  Andah  desert.  He  penetrated  to  the  Kaffa  and  Sura  tribes,  who  are 
enemies.  The  yet  unexplored  part  of  the  White  Nile  lies  between  D’Abadie, 
Yeouker-isle,  and  d’Amaud’s  Yeouker  ferry. 

t Mr.  P 8. 


DOWN  THE  NILE. 


133 


in  England,  of  a large  fortune  and  extended  circle  of  friends, 
whose  virtues  of  heart  have  been  rendered  too  susceptible 
only  by  intercourse  with  exacting  English  society,  and  who 
for  reasons,  which  only  show  the  noble  texture  of  his  charac- 
ter, has  absented  himself  frorn  England  for  years,  and  spent 
his  life  in  the  most  distant  part  of  Abyssinia.  With  only  his 
dragoman  and  servants,  he  dwelt  here  in  his  hut.  He  was  so 
useful  to  the  people,  whom  he  treated  as  a father,  that  he 
became  their  confidant  in  all  their  troubles.  Before  him 
they  came  when  their  flocks  were  menaced  by  robbers,  or  their 
little  stores  menaced  by  the  tyrannous  exactions  of  the  Pacha’s 
soldiers,  who  occasionally  penetrated  to  their  frontier.  He 
was  chosen  a king  among  one  tribe,  and  in  all  his  relations 
with  that  rude  people  governed  himself  by  the  same  rules  of 
society  and  honor,  as  in  his  own  country,  in  England.  He 
has  been  long  known  in  Egypt,  particularly  in  Cairo,  by  a 
numerous  circle  of  friends,  and  I am  proud  to  add  my  name 
to  the  list. 

Should  these  pages  ever  meet  his  eye,  I trust  it  will  be  on 
his  own  estate  in  Nottinghamshire,  and  among  the  civilized 
advantages  of  a land  to  which  he  is  an  honor. 

We  turned  our  boat  and  descended  the  river.  We  had 
seen  all,  and  all  we  had  to  do  was  to  float  down.  Now  we 
would  visit  some  town  on  the  shore  for  provisions,  or  an  Alm4 
dance,  or  a bath,  and  always  found  alike  interest  and  amuse- 
ments. On  leaving  Thebes  several  English  boats  had  arrived 
there,  and  two  American  flags,  one  of  which  belonged  to  an 
Episcopal  clergyman.  We  passed  two  boats  also  with  an  Eng- 
lish flag,  in  which  were  two  brothers  of  a distinguished  English 
name.  But  the  weather  was  becoming  unpleasantly  warm  in 
the  Said,  and  it  would  be  high  time  for  Palestine  and  Syria.  But 


134 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


why  explore  them  ? I would  not  step  a foot  into  Syria,  with- 
out exploring  alike  with  Balbec  and  Palmyra,  also  Nineveh, 
Babylon  (or  Hillah)  and  Persepolis  ; and  for  the  caravan  route 
from  Aleppo  to  Bagdad,  which  is  the  only  mode  of  crossing 
the  Syrian  desert,  and  reaching  Babylon,  and  the  sites  of 
Assyrian  and  Chaldean  sway,  I am  not  prepared.  Nineveh,'' 
Babylon,  Persepolis,  what  testimonies  ye  can  bear  to  Scrip- 
ture ! and  yet  are  these  alone  ? Are  there  not  in  my  own  land 
testimonies  alike,  in  the  sepulchral  mounds,  in  the  ruins  of 
Central  America,  Chiapas,  Yucatan,  in  the  temple  of  the  Sun, 
and  the  mythology  of  the  Aztecs,  in  the  geology  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi? Now  then  to  America,  that  land  of  prosperity, 
Christianity  and  truth  ; and  as  they  turned  my  boat,  I thought 
of  those  rarely  quoted  lines  : 

“ Lives  there  a man  with  soul  so  dead, 

Who  never  to  himself  hath  said, 

This  is  mine  own,  my  native  land  : — 

Whose  heart  within  him  never  burned. 

As  homeward  he  his  footsteps  turned. 

From  wandering  on  a foreign  strand  ?” 

How  many  who  have  never  tried  it,  have  spoken  of  the 
intolerable  boat  voyage  of  the  Nile  ; but  to  me  and  many  others 
who  have  been  through  it,  it  was  nothing  but  pleasure.  All 
along  before,  we  had  been  leaving  Europe  and  civilization,  and 
sailing  far  into  the  past,  into  the  regions  of  time,  “ where  he  so 
sadly  overcometh  all  things,  and  sitteth  semi-somnous  on  a 
pyramid,  and  looketh  into  old  Thebes,  and  mumbleth  some- 
thing.” But  now  with  sadness  I saw  one  city  after  another 
passed,  and  each  one  bringing  us  nearer  Cairo  and  civilization. 

* Layard’s  Nineveh  was  not  then  published. 


DOWN  THE  NILE. 


135 


How  I was  planning  with  Suleiman,  another  visit,  to  come 
with  my  wife,  should  I by  that  time  have  one ; and  supposing 
that,  by  that  time,  he  would  have  soared  from  the  command  of 
a Sandal  to  that  of  a Cangia  Dharhieh^  or  germ*  Inshal- 
lah,”  all  the  Arabs  replied,  and  each  one  vowed  to  go  with 
us  if  I came  to  the  farthest  sources  of  ^the  Nile,  in  Abys- 
sinia or  Ethiopia.  I stopped  a moment  at  Gaw  or  Antaeopolis. 

GaWj  or  A ntceopolis. — I did  not  expect  much  here  from 
the  accounts  of  all  travellers,  though  I landed ; the  wind 
seemed  to  be  lessened  ; I rambled  over  the  site  and  few  ruins 
of  Antaeus,  the  dog-devoured  huntsman  demigod,  whom  the 
Greeks  have  worshipped.  At  Gau-el-Kehyr  or  Great  Gau, 
there  are  a few  ruins,  while  at  Gau-el-Gharbieh  or  West  Gau, 
there  are  scarcely  any  ; the  richness  of  the  wheat  crops  here, 
now  in  maize,  green  and  flourishing,  confirmed  the  account  of 
the  grain  wealth  of  this  region  since  the  times  of  the 
ancients.  The  groves  an  woods  were  all  full  of  game 
then,  and  here  Antaeus  and  his  hounds  (they  thought)  chased 
the  prey.  St.  John  mentions  the  decay  of  ruins  since  Dr. 
Richardson’s  time,  but  since  then  they  have  dwindled  to  a 
few  stones  and  bricks. 

We  stopped  at  diflerent  towns  besides.  Tel-el-Amarna  and 
its  grottoes,  of  which  little  can  be  said.  Indeed,  I would  look 
at  no  antiquities  after  Thebes,  save  for  research,  and  where 
you  can  find  most  of  them  copied  in  Wilkinson  and  Rosel- 
lini,  it  is  lost  time.  Float  down  then,  and  think  of  home,  and 

* The  largest  boats  on  the  Nile  measure  280  feet  in  length,  these  are  the 
germs  for  grain  and  inundations — the  travellers’  boats,  are  the  maash,  dashabeh, 
cangia  and  sandal,  having  cabins,  divans,  &c.  Osiout  is  the  great  boat-building 
port,  and  -we  sec  every  variety  here  down  to  the  maadil  or  ferry-boat,  and  the 
garih  or  fishing-boat. 


136 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


the  objects  and  purposes  of  life.  “Look  no  longer  mourn- 
fully into  the  past ; go  forth  to  meet  the  future  without  fear.” 
There  is  a wide  field  in  the  new  and  opening  world  of  our 
land,  and  we  dream  no  longer. 

What  do  we  owe  to  Egypt  ? I would  not  have  seen  in 
the  Holy  Land  any  evidences  of  the  source  of  worship ; but 
here,  on  the  Nile,  I saw  the  Hebrews ; in  Beni  Hassan  the 
customs  from  which  theirs  sprung ; in  the  tombs  of  the  kings 
in  Biban-el-Memlook,  the  faith  which  was  taught  them  by 
Joseph  and  Moses. 

I have  not  so  fully  investigated  the  hieroglyphics  as  to 
speak  confidently  upon  many  points ; and  I think  such  a use 
as  Lanci  and  others  have  made  of  their  knowledge  is  of  little 
value,  involving  one  in  numerous  mental  difficulties,  finding 
here  and  there  abundant  allegories,  fancied  resemblances,  &c. 
But  the  real  use  of  the  hieroglyphics, — the  names,  dates,  and 
plain  histories,  which  one  can  now  determine  without  a doubt, 
is  no  loss  of  time.  I can  never  regret  the  use  they  have  been 
to  me  in  settling  these,  more  than  the  Hebrew,  more  than  any 
other  language,  by  the  records  on  the  permanent  works,  the 
enduring  monuments. 

The  convents  from  this  down  the  Nile,  have  been  dwelt 
upon  by  travellers.  Numerous  Christian  ecclesiastics  have  fled 
in  earlier  times  here,  and  built  in  the  natural  grottoes  of  these 
mountains  a refuge  and  a home.  John  of  Lycopolis  at  Sciout, 
and  among  some  of  those  above  us,  St.  Athanasius,  fled  hither 
from  the  persecutions  of  Julian  the  Apostate,  and  his  Arian 
enemies.  Perchance,  here  he  composed  that  creed  so  famed. 
The  Italian  begging  monks  of  the  Gebel-el-Teir  have  been 
spoken  of  by  Warburton,  St.  John,  Dr.  Richardson,  Dr.  Olin, 
and  Stephens.  I saw  none  of  them.  From  the  convent  above, 


DOWN  THE  NILE. 


137 


it  is  said  you  may  get  a distant  view  of  Mount  Sinai.  Here  is 
the  Egyptian  Esdraedlon,  where  Typhon  and  Osiris  are  to 
fight  in  the  last  day,  champions  in  the  cause  of  creation. 

Walking  ashore  with  my  gun,  I saw  a specimen  of  the 
ichneumon,  or  rat-catcher  ; which,  since  the  time  of  the  Pha- 
raohs, has  been  common  in  Egypt. 

I have,  I believe,  seen  specimens  of  all  the  animals  in  my 
walks  along  the  Nile, — hutfaloes,  sheep,  goats,  dogs,  cats,  the 
wolf,  fox,  and  jackal ; every  thing  but  the  lion.  Stephens 
has  an  account  of  a hyena  that  jumped  on  to  his  boat.  I 
have  seen  few  travellers  in  Egypt  who  had  seen  any ; hut  I 
have  fancied  I have  heard  their  cry  often  in  the  distance. 
Since  Barnum^  of  the  Museum,  has  had  his  agents  in  Egypt 
hunting  for  hyenas  and  enormous  crocodiles,  I presume  the 
race  have  become  almost  extinct.  I have  seen  tlie  lynx  ; the 
jerboa,  a species  of  kangaroo;  and  as  to  birds,  have  shot 
at  the  ibis  and  wild  goose,  pelicans,  vultures,  falcons,  wild 
ducks,  pigeons,  hawks,  eagles,  buzzards ; and  all  the  night 
birds, — owls,  bats,  &c. 

Minieh  we  visit  again  on  our  way  down,  and  find  it  not 
much  changed.  Some  rare  stories  of  the  new  sway  of  Abbas 
Pacha  reach  us  here  ; and  the  reappointment  of  Governors  in 
these  provincial  towns,  and  the  characters  of  his  choice,  fully 
demonstrate  what  his  future  sway  will  be.  On  we  continued, 
and  a fine  wind  and  current  is  taking  us  nearer  and  nearer  to 
Cairo.  What  conflicting  emotions  ! How  long  since  we  have 
seen  or  heard  European  news  ! and  yet  we  are  not  at  all  anx- 
ious, for  the  valley  of  the  Nile  has  been  so  interesting ; and 
now  we  are  fairly  down,  we  regret  that  we  did  not  go  higher, 
to  Abyssinia  or  Ethiopia.  However,  there  is  much  yet  untrav- 
elled in  the  world,  and  we  have  not  yet  seen  the  luxuriant 


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VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


scenery  of  the  Amazon,  or  the  volcano  mountains  of  Brazil 
and  the  Andes. 

It  was  a lovely  night ; and  gliding  along,  I could  almost 
imagine  myself  the  young  Greek  of  the  “Epicurean,”  save 
that,  alas  ! the  prospect  of  no  beautiful  priestess,  like  her  of 
the  shrine  of  Isis,  was  cheering  me  with  hope,  like  him, 

“ on  one  of  those  sweet  nights 

When  Isis,  the  pure  star  of  lovers,  lights 
Her  bridal  crescent  o’er  the  holy  stream  ; 

When  wandering  youths  and  maidens  watch  her  beam,  . 

And  number  o’er  the  nights  she  hath  to  run 
Ere  she  agaim  embrace  her  bridegroom  sun.” 

i 

And  where  are  the  shrines  of  Isis  that  graced  the  banks,  and  ' 
in  subterranean  temples  extended  to  Lake  Moeris  ? | 

Let  us  back  again,  through  revolutionary  Europe  ; through 
a Rome  without  a Pope,  an  Italian  republic  persecuted  by  its  | 
sister  republic ; through  a France  governed  by  the  shadow  | 
of  a name. 

The  wind  carried  us  by  noon  past  Benisoef,  and  before  night  j 
we  passed  the  false  'pyramid.  Soon  Dashoor  and  Abousir 
pyramids  hove  in  sight ; after,  the  well-marked  and  terraced, 
mound-like  Saccara  pyramids.  Then  Fostat,  once  a great 
Mohammedan  city ; and  in  the  haze  of  twilight,  far  to  the 
north,  Ghizeh,  and  Cheops’  mighty  works. 

Late  in  the  evening,  we  approach  the  outskirts  of  Cairo. 
How  beautiful  the  river  for  miles  before  reaching  Cairo ! — 
with  the  palaces,  and  military  schools,  and  colleges,  and  insti- 
tutions, and  hospitals,  with  which  the  banks  are  lined.  Music 
floats  along  the  sacred  river;  Rhoda  and  her  sacred  tradition  j 

again;  and  we  are  again  among  the  Nile  shipping  near  | 

Boulacq. 


NIGHT  ADVENTURE  ON  RETURN  TO  CAIRO. 


139 


It  was  past  twelve  o’clock,  p.  m.,  on  one  of  the  latter  days 
of  February,  when  I ordered  my  boatmen  to  haul  in  at  the  very 
place  I had  embarked  from  forty  days  before,  near  the  transit 
office.  Stephens  speaks  of  his  finding  Cairo  like  home ; but 
his  impressions  could  not  compare  with  mine.  Boulacq  seemed 
to  me  like  New- York.  I rushed  on  shore  with  Antonio,  de- 
termined to  reach  Cairo,  gates,  guards,  no  password,  to  the 
contrary  notwithstanding.  The  sound  of  the  sakia  and  some 
late  fantasia^  an  old  Turk  returning  with  his  attendant  and 
light  from  a prolonged  carouse,  were  all  that  broke  the  silence. 
In  vain  I urged  Antonio  to  go  with  me  to  the  gate ; he  only 
said  it  would  cause  our  arrest  and  expose  us  to  ridicule.  I 
returned  to  my  boat,  but  sleep  I could  not.  I rose  again  : the 
moon  was  like  day.  Antonio  was  snoring.  To  sleep  that 
night  at  Shepherd’s  hotel  I was  determined ; I called  my  tall 
cook,  the  Turk  Beekra.  On  we  started  for  Cairo  or  Masr. 
He  understood  only  Arabic.  We  passed  the  well-remembered 
spots  on  the  road  from  Boulacq,  which  I remember  promenad- 
ing one  night  with  a noble  young  Englishman,  now  in  Damas- 
cus. Two  men  were  before  us.  They  might  be  Arabs  ; we 
had  heard  of  murders  without  the  walls.  We  walk  slowly 
and  silently  along ; they  before  us.  They  cross  the  bridge,  we 
follow.  Ten  minutes,  and  we  gain  on  them  as  they  approach 
the  gate.  They  give  the  password,  and  the  gate  opens.  We 
rush  forward  just  as  they  are  passing  through,  to  gain  admit- 
tance, by  pretending  to  be  of  their  party ; but  imagine  my  sur- 
prise, when  they  accosted  me  with  Mr. , how  do  you 

do  ?”  Those  whom  I had  avoided  as  Arab  vagabonds,  were 
two  English  acquaintances  who  resided  at  Cairo,  returning 

from  dinner  with  Dr.  W 1 and  Mr.  M n,  of  New-York, 

who  were  at  Rhoda,  on  their  way  up.  I hurriedly  inquired  the 


140 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


password.  “Koursoumakhah,”  they  answered,  and  we  stepped 
within  the  gate,  congratulating  ourselves  on  the  providential 
meeting  that  seemed  almost  romantic,  for  I could  not  have 
passed  the  gates  that  night  had  I not  met  them ; for  as  Abbas 
Pacha  had  returned,  they  were  very  strict.  In  five  minutes  I 
was  in  Shepherd’s,  and  shortly  asleep  in  the  old  familiar  hotel. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Cairo. — View  from  Esbekiah. — Abbas  Pacha. — Illuminations. — Women  in  the 

East. — Defterdar  Bey. — A Moslem  Lucrezia  Borgia. — Memphis. — Pyramids. 

— Sacred  tradition. — Alexandria. — Farewell  to  Egypt. 

How  beautiful  the  view  from  our  hotel  top  in  the  Esbekiah  at 
sunset ; the  thousand  objects  of  interest  studding  the  love- 
liest of  landscapes ! To  the  east,  over  the  sea  of  mosques 
and  oriental  houses,  lies  the  citadel  with  its  mosque  on  the 
spot  of  its  founder’s  crimes.  Below  is  the  square  of  Esbekiah, 
with  its  trees  and  planted  walks  and  gardens,  now  lighting  up 
with  a thousand  lamps  in  illumination  of  the  return  of  Abbas 
Pacha.  Around,  towards  the  desert,  the  old  mosques,  and 
spires,  and  ruins,  and  tombs  of  the  Cairo  of  the  Caliphs. 
Further  on,  old  Cairo  with  its  beauties,  and  by  it  the  thousand 
palaces  of  the  Beys  and  Pachas,  that  hang  over  the  beautiful 
Nile,  and  Rhoda  with  its  beauties  and  associations.  Further 
on  to  the  west,  stretch  the  plains  of  Memphis,  where  stood 
the  first  of  Egypt’s  cities,  and  conspicuous  against  the.  rich 
glow  of  an  Egyptian  sunset,  the  awful,  lofty  pyramids. 
Never  could  we  turn  to  objects  of  more  interest,  of  modern  or 
ancient  times.  Down  the  landscape  floats  the  Nile,~Boulacq, 
Cairo’s  port,  and  farther  to  the  south,  the  beautiful  avenue  of 
Shoubra,  and  the  palace  and  gardens  of  Egypt’s  lord.  Near 
is  the  Coptic  and  Jewish  quarter  of  modern  Cairo.  Towards 
the  citadel  lies  the  Turkish  quarter,  with  its  mosques,  its 
bazaars,  its  baths,  and  around  through  the  near  streets,  the 


142 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


thousand  objects  that  tell  of  the  rich  orientalism  o»f  the  city. 
And  the  air  is  so  delightful ! Not,  perhaps,  what  the  air  of 
Upper  Egypt  is,  nor  such  as  ten  days  since  I breathed  on  the 
plains  of  ruined  Thebes  and  Esne,  nor  such  as  cheered  my 
lungs,  as  I sailed  up  and  down  the  lovely,  lovely  Nile ; but  a 
rich  atmosphere  of  delight,  nevertheless. 

Feb.  16th,  Abbas  Pacha  returned  from  Constantinople  to 
Cairo.  He  had  been  there  to  visit  the  Sultan,  after  receiving 
from  him  the  appointment  of  Hatti  Sheriff.  His  entry  into 
Cairo  was  brilliant,  with  the  cortege  of  carriages  and  retinue 
of  mounted  cavaliers.  The  city  was  all  joy ; and  in  the 
evening,  all  the  principal  streets  and  bazaars'  were  brilliantly 
illuminated.  In  the  Esbekiah  were  the  fireworks.  Those  of 
every  nation,  and  many  riding  on  camels,  were  thronging  the 
thoroughfares  in  the  most  picturesque  costumes.  The  turbaned 
Turks,  in  crowds  on  foot ; the  Caireen  women,  the  Copt  in  his 
white  and  muslin ; and  the  Jew  in  his  dark,  close-fitting  robes, 
the  Bedouin  in  his  wild  desert  dress,  the  Arabs  in  the  burnou- 
ses ; boatmen  of  the  Nile,  E'ffendis  on  horseback,  with  armed 
attendants  and  blacks,  less  distinguished  Caireens  on  donkeys, 
Arab  women  with  simple  dress  and  unveiled  faces,  and  num- 
berless Franks  with  ladies,  and  alone,  formed  a panorama  as 
you  walked  through  Cairo,  worth  seeing.  It  was  a joyful 
evening, — and  how  well  behaved  the  people, — how  different 
from  an  European  or  American  holiday  ! How  little  drunken- 
ness and  bad  conduct ! Surely  Christians  might  come  to  the 
East  to  learn  manners.  “I  never  saw,”  says  an  English 
gentleman,  “ such  courtesy,  such  good-humor,  such  an  absence 
of  rudeness,  and  such  happiness,  in  any  city.”  Indeed  it  was 
beautiful. 

Defterdar  Bey;  that  pious  member  of  the  Geographical 


DEFTERDAR  BEY’S  DAUGHTER. 


143 


Society  of  Paris,  and  his  daughter.  Among  the  many  stories 
told  of  the  ferocity  of  this  wild  beast  in  human  shape,  not  the 
I least  interesting  are  those  of  the  tamed  tigers  he  kept  on  the 
divan  beside  him,  and  which  frequently  amused  themselves  in 
devouring  his  Nubian  slaves.  His  daughter  lived  upon  the  west 
I side  of  the  river  in  her  palace,  and  it  was  her  common  amuse- 
ment to  walk  through  the  streets  of  Cairo,  and  if  she  saw  a 
I young  Frank  who  attracted  her  attention,  she  would  send  her 
I eunuch  to  bid  him  follow  her.  Were  he  unfortunate  enough  to 
I do  this,  he  never  returned  from  her  house.  One  young  French- 
I man,  upon  whom  she  thus  cast  her  eyes,  was  thus  bidden  by 
I a eunuch,  and  not  daring  to  disobey  the  summons  from,  such  a 
I powerful  person,  took  the  precaution  of  arming  himself  with 
pistols.  After  passing  the  night  in  her  harem,  in  the  morning 
I she  parted  with  him  most  atfectionately,  and  giving  him  pre- 
: sents  to  disguise  her  intentions,  as  she  had  doubtless  done  fre- 

quently to  her  previous  lovers,  he  left  the  harem,  and  two  of 
the  eunuchs  accompani'ed  him  to  the  top  of  some  stairs,  which 
he  perceived  led  rather  mysteriously  down  a dark  passage. 
Suspecting  foul  play,  and  observing  both  of  the  eunuchs  had 
their  hands  on  their  sword-hilts,  he  pulled  out  both  pistols, 

! and  ordered  them  to  lead  the  way.  This  they  did,  and  on 
arriving  about  half  way  down,  he  perceived  a sort  of  landing- 
place,  or  trap-door,  which  was  raised,  and  below  ran  the 
river.  Here  the  eunuchs  paused,  and  drew  their  swords ; 
but  he  cocked  his  pistols,  and  placing  one  to  the  ear  of  each, 
ordered  them  to  proceed.  Upon  reaching  the  bottom,  he 
leaped  from  the  steps,  while  they  ran  back  to  get  assistance. 
He  was  unable  to  cross  the  river,  and,  as  it  was  scarce  day- 
light, succeeded  in  getting  into  the  outskirts,  and  concealed 
himself  in  the  straw  in  an  old  hut  of  a ruined  village  about  a 


144 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


mile  up  the  river.  He  heard  the  voices  of  several  of  the  black 
eunuchs,  who  had  traced  him  through  the  villages  by  the 
, barking  dogs,  but  remained  quiet  till  night,  when,  proceeding 
further  up  the  river,  he  crossed  there  in  a boat ; and  going  to 
the  Mokaattam  mountains,  arrived  at  Cairo  on  the  other  side 
next  day,  having  not  dared  to  enter  a village  for  food.  He 
went  immediately  to  the  French  Consul,  and  told  his  story  ; 
but  what  would  his  protection  have  been  to  one  who  had  the 
character  and  secret  of  the  daughter  of  Defterdar  Bey  in  his 
hands  ? and  any  “ dog  of  a Christian”  would  be  easily  dis- 
posed of.  So,  upon  the  advice  of  the  Consul,  he  left  Cairo, 
and  went  to  Alexandria,  where  he  took  passage  for  France. 
The  disappearance  of  many  young  and  handsome  Franks, 
more  adventurous  than  prudent,  was  thus  accounted  for ; and 
this  was  the  last  instance  known  of  one  who  had  been  in 
danger  of  being  sacrificed  to  gratify  the  passion  and  save  the 
reputation  of  this  Egyptian  “Lucrezia  Borgia.”  Franks  in 
Egypt  were  not  protected  as  now,  and  the  despotic  and 
ferocious  will  of  the  daughters  and  sisters  of  the  Beys  and 
Pachas,  particularly  under  the  Mamelooks,  caused  many  a 
parallel  circumstance. 

The  Indian  mail  across  the  Isthmus  has  made  Egypt  a 
progressive  country.  But  Turkish  rule  keeps  back  their  im- 
provement. The  contractors  for  the  route  at  the  stations  on 
the  desert,  have  to  give  large  sums,  backsheesh^  to  the  Pachas 
or  Beys,  or  they  throw  obstacles  in  their  way. 

Among  the  plagues  of  Egypt  and  the  routes  to  Syria  are  the 
dragomen.  There  is  an  understanding  always  between  the 
hotels  and  the  dragomen,  and  hence  one  is  as  apt  to  have  a 
bad  as  a good  one.  The  best  way  to  get  dragomen,  is  to  ask 
some  one  in  Cairo  to  whom  you  have  letters.  The  English 


CHARACTER  OF  ABBAS  PACHA. 


145 


travellers  from  England  and  from  India  always  spend  some 
days  in  Cairo,  and  frequently  v/eeks.  This  furnishes  you 
always  with  society  for  the  length  of  time  you  choose  to 
remain.  Returning  from  the  Nile  and  in  your  way  to  Syria,  it 
is  always  customary  to  take  a house,  as  you  have  all  necessary 
articles.  The  expense  of  a trip  up  the  Nile  will  vary  from 
$250  to  $500,  according  to  your  boat ; and  $250  would  cover 
the  journey  from  Cairo  over  Syria  to  Damascus.  Colonel 
Outram  was  one  of  the  English  residents  last  winter  in  Cairo, 
and  went  up  the  Nile.  He,  as  resident  of  Baroda,  in  India, 
enjoyed  almost  absolute  power.  Life  and  death  being  at  his 
will,  as  are  the  Rajahs’  lives  or  deaths  at  the  Governor  General’s. 
His  quarrel  with  Lord  Napier,  and  the  Scinde  affair,  is  well 
known. 

The  increase  of  English  influence  in  India  is  more  and 
more  apparent.  “ The  character  of  Abbas  Pacha,”  says  a late 
traveller,  “ before  he  was  Pacha,  exhibits  a union  of  ferocity 
and  vice,  for  which  we  find  a parallel  only  in  the  Roman  Em- 
perors.” The  worst  vices  of  the  worst  Turks  degrade  him. 
In  his  new  palace,  built  at  Cairo,  his  absolute  power  is  made 
to  minister  only  to  his  pleasure.  Seyd  Pacha,  though  wanting 
in  mind,  would  have  made  a far  more  hopeful  governor. 
Of  the  other  sons  of  Mehemet  Ali,  one  was  conspicuous  in  the 
storming  of  the  Chateau  d’Eu,  at  Paris,  last  winter  ; and  the 
others,  as  I have  said,  on  attempting  to  return  to  Egypt,  were 
sent  away  by  Abbas,  for  fear  they  should  promulgate  some  of 
thOv‘se  revolutionary  opinions  which  they  had  learned  in  France. 
Just  before  leaving  Alexandria,  several  of  the  ships  of  the 
Egyptian  fleet  were  reported  to  have  been  sold  by  Abbas  to  the 
Sultan. 

Some  of  the  finest  society  at  Alexandria  is  that  oi  the 
1 


146 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


wealthier  Greeks.  The  lady  of  one  of  the  transit  agents,  a 
GreeKj  is  beautiful.  The  famous  banker,  Sitzy,  has  often  been 
spoken  of.  Many  a face  of  Greek  outlines  would  not  do  dis- 
credit to  the  reputation  of  the  ancient  Corinthians. 

In  the  custom-house  at  Alexandria,  and  Boulacq,  the  port 
of  Cairo,  you  see  an  air  of  business,  and  a crowd  that  has  in- 
terest from  the  oriental  costumes  of  those  engaged  in  it.  In 
the  Pacha’s  offices  are  those  miserable  Italians  and  French, 
who  exercise  most  contemptible  authority  upon  all  imports 
and  exportations  of  antiquities,  although  your  baggage  is  al- 
lowed to  enter  more  easily  than  in  the  Italian  or  French 
Doganas.  These  French  renegades  and  Italian  tools  of  his,  who 
are  scattered  through  the  country  as  Beys,  Governors,  Lieu- 
tenants or  Hakims,  are  fine  Arabic  business  men,  and  in  many 
cases  use  their  power  with  more  moderation  than  their  supe- 
riors ; but  what  system  of  agriculture  can  thrive  when  the 
Pacha  holds  the  allodium^  giving  out  his  land  to  the  peasants, 
and  furnishing  them  with  cattle  and  seed,  requiring  them  to 
give  him  a part  as  his  right,  and  to  sell  the  rest  at  the  price 
he  may  dictate  ? Will  not  the  inhabitants  ever  aim  at  dupli- 
city and  deceit,^  and  concealment ; and  all  ambitious  industry, 
which  would  otherwise  be  a spur  to  these  naturally  perse- 
vering and  bright  Arabs,  be  thus  checked  ? And  that  system 
of  horrid  enlistment^  or  pressing  of  the  people  into  the  military 
b^"  conscription,  has  been  dwelt  on.  Every  other  Egyptian 
has  an  eye  put  out,  or  a forefinger  cut  off*.  To  prevent  this, 
the  Pacha  made  a one-eyed  regiment.  It  would  seem  that 
ophthalmia  were  curse  enough.  The  poor,  poor  Egyptian, 
always  cursed,  always  plagued  ! 

He  was  not  without  the  religious  feeling,  ever.  In  the 
dawn  of  history,  we  see  him  a worshipper.  The  poor,  de- 


WOMAN  IN  THE*  EAST.  147 

graded  man  of  the  Nile,  when  he  saw  the  sun  rising  driving 
away  the  mists — the  glorious  sun — giving  life,  drying  the 
mud,  warming  the  crocodile’s  egg,  the  seed,  into  life — the 
good,  bright  sun,  making  his  toil  productive,  and  putting 
warmth  into  his  limbs, — he  raised  up  his  hands  and  wor- 
shipped it.  It  was  a worship  of  gratitude  and  love.  It  is  on 
their  first  names,  their  first  cartouches,  the  Sun-Father ; then 
the  twenty-six  gods  or  stars.  To  him  it  was  the  generator 
and  regenerator ; and  as  for  immortality,  as  soon  as  the  idea 
was  fully  taught,  under  the  Ptolemies,  to  the  people,  the 
destruction  of  life  by  suicide  was  incalculable.  ‘‘We  shall 
leave,”  they  said,  “ this  world  of  suffering  and  oppression,  of 
ophthalmia,  and  of  poverty,  and  we  shall  go  to  a better  ; for 
no  life  can  be  worse.”  Poor,  poor  Egyptian  ! under  thy  Pha- 
raoh Moeris — under  thy  Abbas  Pacha — I have  an  exceeding 
great  respect  for  thee,  even  in  thy  mud  hut — even  in  thy 
home  that  thou  scrapest  in  the  bank,  with  the  single  clay 
utensil  that  thou  hast.  Thou  never  earnest  from  the  mud  of 
the  Nile,  though  thy  body  was  made  of  red  earth.  There  is  a 
part  of  thee  that  has  lived  before  the  sun — that  will  live  when 
it  rises  not. 

Women  in  the  East. — My  remarks  on  this  subject  are  few 
and  far  between.  I love  women — but  I never  found  them  in 
the  East.  I found  only  the  old,  withered  hag  of  the  harem, 
who  is  every  where  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  ; and  occasion- 
ally caught  glimpses  of  the  pretty  Odalisque^  whose  face  was 
never  to  be  seen  unless  enveloped  in  the  yaschmak.  To  him 
who  lives  in  his  imagination  and  in  the  past,  as  he  who  goes 
to  Egypt  must,  for  the  time  women  are  a nonentity.  Wo- 
man-woman with  soul,  that  other  part  of  man — she  is  never 


148 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


to  be  seen  in  the  beautiful  East,  unless  by  chance  an  English 
lady  traveller  strays  there,  or  one  from  our  own  bright  land. 

True  the  Pachas  have  toys — the  Beys,  the  Turks,  all 
have  toys  ; they  dress  them  in  silks,  in  rare  tissues  ; they  feed 
them  with  sweetmeats  ; and  the  fatter  they  are,  the  more  they 
prize  them.  They  have,  and  so  have  we,  dogs  whom  we  treat 
thus  ; we  have  canaries  whom  we  cage  ; and  these  are  your 
women  in  the  East. 

Cairo,  in  the  eight  weeks  that  I have  spent  in  it,  before 
going  up,  and  now,  is  exhausted : and  now  for  the  voyage 
down  the  river  to  Alexandria.  This  is  a simple  affair.  Twenty- 
four  hours  does  it,  and  you  have  no  hed^  which  is  the  bore. 
Thackeray,  in  his  squih  about  the  East,  “ Journey  from  Corn- 
hill  to  Cairo,”  fully  dilates  upon  it.  The  voyage  was  not  four 
days,  as  when  I came  up  from  Atfeh,  and  I have  not  so  much 
time  to  observe  the  formation  of  that  Delta.  I am  not  a geo- 
logist, but  I believe  that  six  thousand  years  ago,  Nubia  was 
as  well  endowed  with  soil  as  Egypt,  and  that  the  Creator 
did  not^  as  the  geologists  say  he  did,  (sneeringly,)  make  that 
Delta  at  the  creation  ready-made;  but  that  six  thousand 
years  has  formed  it — Lyell  and  others  to  the  contraiy.  I am 
supported  in  my  opinion  of  this  by  eminent  geologists  with 
regard  to  the  Nile,  if  not  the  Mississippi. 

After  passing  Shoobra,  and  bidding  farewell  to  the  Pyra- 
mids for  ever,  we  wind  through  the  luxuriant  fertility  of  this 
valley,  through  the  palm  groves  that  we  gaze  on  for  the  last 
time.  Dr.  Lallemand,  Memhre  de  V Institute  is  on  board,  and 
his  wife  and  son,  and  Mr.  Danton.  I had  seen  their  names  in 
the  tombs  of  the  kings,  and  we  compared  notes.  Observing  th** 
Mahmoudieh  canal  winding  like  the  Nile,  I was  struck  wid^ 
a remark  M.  Lallemand  quoted  from  the  Turks ; viz.,  that  the  . 


DOWN  THE  NILE. 


149 


had  purposely  made  it  so,  because  they  did  not  wish  to  excel 
God  in  making  it  straight ; and  this  was  Turkish  philosophy 
in  medicine  and  every  thing  else,  viz.,  ‘^Laissez  faire.” 
Numerous  India  Englishmen  are  on ' board ; passing  a vil- 
lage with  mosques,  I heard  a servant  remark  to  her  com- 
panion, that  those  mosques  were  idols  which  the  Turks  had 
erected  to  their  gods.  At  Atfeh,  we  entered  the  Mahmoudieh 
canal,  which  looks  as  it  did  nearly  four  months  ago.  The 
same  crowd  of  Arab  boats,  the  same  Arab  row,  the  same  line 
across  the  canal,  the  same  transit  agent.  Farewell,  then,  to 
the  Nile,  for  ever,  beloved,  sacred  river — to  thee  and  thy  sweet 
waters,  for  which,  like  the  exile,  we  would  sigh  till  we  drink 
again.  May  these  ever  gush  from  the  emerald  mountains 
beyond  Meroe  ; may  the  wonders  of  art  ever  adorn  thy  banks, 
and  this  be  the  only  steamer  that  ploughs  thy  waves  where 
Moses  was  found,  and  Cleopatra’s  barge  floated  with  its  oars 
of  silver. 

Alexandria  came  in  sight  towards  sunset,  (after  winding 
down  the  bank  of  Lake  Mareotis,  which  is  alive  with  its  wild- 
fowl,) with  its  pillar,  its  distant  obelisk,  its  consular  flags,  its 
tall  shipping.  We  land  where  we  embarked  to  go  up  the  Nile 
with  our  solitary  Arab  boy  and  boat,  and  an  omnibus  whirls 
us  into  the  square  before  the  Hotel  d’l’Europe. 

The  admittance  of  Nile  waters  into  Lake  Mareotis  has 
made  the  city  much  more  healthy.  Shooting  game  there, 
you  perceive  the  noxious  exhalations  proceeding  from  it. 


CHAPTER  VIII, 


Alexandria. — The  Frank  quarter. — Pompey’s  Pillar. — The  Obelisks. — Thothmes.  ; 
— The  Pharos. — Obelisk  of  alabaster  to  Mohammed  All. — News  from  France  j 
— Celebration  of  Proclamation  of  Republic  by  French. — Expulsion  of  Pope  j 
from  Rome. — America  and  California — President  Taylor  and  new  Cabinet. — I 
Anxiety  for  home. — The  row  of  buildings  belonging  to  Ibrahim  Pacha. — i 
Alexandrian  society. — Bankers,  merchants.  — English — English  Church. — 
New  Church  building. — Catholic  Convent,  and  new  Catholic  Church. — Chev.  ' 
d’Anastasi’s  museum — its  use  to  Egyptian  science. — Mr.  Harris’s  museum. — 
Russian  Consulate — Russian  vessels  of  war — Dockyards. — Egyptian  fleet. — 
Saracenic  ruins,  walls,  towers. — Ruins  temple  Arsinoe. — Catacombs  ycleped 
Cleopatra’s  baths. — Site  and  ruins  of  Sarapeum — site  and  ruins  of  library — 
Site  of  Theatre. — Palace. — Canopus’  baths. — Bazaar. — Promenades. — Italian 
Church  and  Italian  beauties. — The  Italian  Opera  and  Cafes. — Italians  and 
Levantines. — Rides. — Sayd  Pacha’s  Palace. — Orange  groves,  and  exquisite 
view. — Arab  city  imder  the  Caliphs. — Mosque  of  a thousand  and  one  columns. 

— Canopus. — Supposed  tomb  of  Alexander. — Turkish  quarter,  and  customs. — 
Mohammed  Ali’s  palace  and  gardens. — Alexandria  under  the  Ptolomies — 
Cleopatra — Antony — Pompey. — Old  Egypt’s  splendor. — Aboukir,  and  Nelson’s 
field  of  victory. — Abercrombie — Bazaars,  and  Moggrebyn  Arabs. — Modem 
Alexandria. — Two  sons  of  Ibrahim  Pacha. — Arab  soldiers. — Etesian  winds. — 
Cameo  of  Naples,  “ Tazze  Farnese.” — Homeward  bound. — Farewell  to 
Egypt. — Candia,  or  Crete. — Straits  of  Messina,  Mount  Etna,  Coast  of  Italy, 
Spezzia,  and  quarantine. — Tuscan  soldiers. — Lombardese. — Austrians. — Italian 
liberty.  — Marseilles.  — Avignon.  — Lyons.  — Paris. — Zodiacs. — France,  and  a 
President. — Bibliotheque. — Assyrian  Museum. — London. — Chevalier  Bunsen. — 

“ Egyptologists,”  British  Museum. — Mr.  Birch. — Layard. — Nineveh. — Major 
Rawlinson. — Voyage  home. — New- York  Bay. 


Next  morning  we  were  promenading  this  motley  city,  or 
riding  about  on  our  donkey  to  see  the  lions ; which,  to  avoid 


ALEXANDRIA. 


151 

enumeration,  we  have  placed  at  the  head  of  our  chapter.  In 
the  bazaar  you  may  see  numbers  of  the  Moggrebyn  Arabs  and 
those  from  the  Libyan  desert ; and  though  you  feel  it  excess- 
ively dull  and  unoriental  after  Cairo,  still  the  Nile  and  desert 
Arabs,  Turks,  Syrians,  Bedouins,  English,  French,  Italians, 
Jews,  Greeks,  Russian  and  American  officers  and  sailors,  the 
large  English  commerce,  and  English  captains  and  sailors, 
make  it  almost  as  variegated  a city  as  San  Francisco  must  be. 

The  museum  of  medals,  &c.,  belonging  to  that  fine  Egyp- 
tian scholar  and  antiquarian,  Mr.  Harris,  has  been  frequently 
spoken  of;  and  the  museum  of  C.  d’Anastasi,  the  Swedish 
Consul-general  of  Egypt,  now  in  London,  has  furnished  many 
Scripture  illustrations  and  proofs. 

“ Nam  qua  Pellaei,  gens  fortunata  Canopi.” 

Georgics  IV.  285. 

Canopus,  built  on  the  western  side  of  the  Nile,  was  termed 
Pellgean,  from  Pella,  in  Macedonia , the  birth-place  of  Alexan- 
der. Canopus  on  the  west,  and  Pelusium  on  the  east,  are  de- 
scribed in  the  Georgies  of  Virgil.  In  the  catacombs,  on 
the  plains,  in  the  few  old  ruins,  (among  which  are  the  baths  of 
Cleopatra,  and  at  which  there  is  nothing  to  see,)  are  all  to  be 
seen  of  the  once  great  city  of  Alexander.  His  tomb  was 
here,  but  nothing  else.  And  yet  African  as  Alexandria  looks, 
when  you  first  arrive  from  Europe,  now,  returning  from  four 
months  up  the  Nile,  it  seems  more  European  than  Europe. 
Walking  with  M.  d’Abaddie,  who  was  so  many  years  in 
Abyssinia,  I could  not  but  be  amused  at  his  saying  of  it  with 
contempt,  “ This  European,  ^^7^oriental  town  !” 

Near  the  docks  is  the  site  of  the  temple  of  Arsinoe,  and 
while  exploring  this,  you  can  glance  at  the  fine  palaces, 


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whose  latticed  harems  hang  over  the  water.  The  pillar, 
called  Pompey’s  Pillar  so  erroneously,  was  erected  by  Publius 
in  honor  of  Diocletian.  Some  suppose  an  equestrian  statue 
stood  upon  it ; but  to  me  it  seemed  only  to  be  one  of  a number 
of  columns  of  an  edifice,  and  I supposed  it  belonged  to  the 
Sarapeum.  Here,  it  is  said  by  Adrian,  in  his  letter  to  Servian, 
that  both  Christian  Jews  and  Gentiles  worshipped  Jupiter 
Serapis. 

About  the  time  that  I reached  Alexandria,  two  sons  of 
Ibrahim  Pacha  were  returned ; and  Abbas  not  liking  their 
presence,  very  coolly  gave  them  orders  to  leave  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  The  French  steamer  was  forced  to  return  with 
them.  The  Pacha,  on  his  return  from  Constantinople,  as  well 
as  from  Mecca,  just  before  his  accession,  made  the  engineers 
many  splendid  presents.  The  engineers  of  the  steamers  hold 
the  rank  of  naval  officers  in  the  Egyptian  fleet,  and  wear  the 
insignia. 

There  was  enough  to  wear  out  a few  days  at  Alexandria : 
there  was  Mohammed  Ali’s  fine  palace,  and  there  were  the 
Arab  baths ; there  was  Mr.  Harris’s  collection,  and  shooting, 
with  a Greek,  along  Lake  Mareotis.  There  was  the  Italian 
Theatre  and  the  Italian  Cafe ; there  was  Canopus’  and 
Cleopatra’s  baths  ; and  the  picturesque  shore,  and  a gallop 
along  the  bay  of  Aboukir  ; and  there  was  the  English  Church 
on  Sunday,  and  a pleasant  Sunday  evening  walk  along 
the  road  to  Rosetta  Gate  and  the  Cleopatra  obelisk  ; and  then 
there  was  Pompey’s  pillar,  and  the  ruins  of  the  library ; the 
Turkish  bazaar,  and  the  Arab  bazaar ; and  silk-dealers  of 
rohes,  and  embroidery  from  Damascus  ; and  Greek  dealers 
in  Roman  antiquities  ; and  the  French  Consul,  and  the  Fetes 
da  Republique ; and  the  English  merchant  fleet,  and  the 


GREEK  ALEXANDRIA. 


153 


English  Consul ; and  fresh  news  from  California,  and  my 
own  dear  land.  Not  a day  was  without  its  many  scenes  of 
interest. 

Now  a regiment  of  Arab  soldiers  file  through  the  streets ; 
now  a Dervish  meeting  ; now  an  overland  mail  from  England, 
and  you  fancy  you  are  walking  down  Regent  Crescent  in 
London ; now  from  India,  and  you  can  see  Calcutta  afloat ; 
now  a French  steamer,  and  a crowd  of  French  adventurers, 
leaving  the  new  republic  for  the  republic's  good.  I have 
been  more  than  four  months  in  Egypt,  and  it  is  not  yet  a bore. 

I would  gladly,  if  time  permitted,  build  up  old  Greek  Alex- 
andria as  it  was,  out  of  the  ruins.  I amused  my  fancy  with 
the  picture  of  the  past,  when  Cleopatra  ruled,  and 

“ The  barge  she  sat  in,  like  a burnished  throne 
Burned  on  the  water : the  poop  was  beaten  gold, 

Purple  the  sails,  and  so  perfumed,  that 

The  winds  were  lovesick  with  them  ; the  oars  were  silver.” 

Antony  and  Cleopatra. 

Alexandria,  whether  it  be  Greek,  Roman,  Christian  or  Patriar- 
chal, Saracenic,  Turkish,  French,  English,  or  that  of  the  family 
ruling  thee  now  : — It  is  all  in  history.  Here  in  the  days  of  the 
Greek  Emperors  a scene  is  described.  Along  the  banks  of 
the  green  island  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  lay  anchored 
the  galleys  of  the  principal  traders,  large  floating  bazaars, 
bearing  each  the  name  of  its  owner,  emblazoned  in  letters  of 
flame  over  its  stern.  Over  the  decks  were  spread  out  in  gay 
profusion  the  products  of  the  loom  and  needle  of  Egypt,  rich 
carpets  of  Memphis,  and  likewise  those  variegated  veils,  for 
which  the  female  embroiderers  of  the  Nile  are  so  celebrated, 
and  to  which  the  name  of  Cleopatra  lends  traditional  charms. 


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In  each  of  the  other  galleys  was  exhibited  some  branch  of 
Egyptian  workmanship,  vases  of  the  fragrant  porcelain  of  On  ; 
cups  of  that  frail  crystal,  whose  hues  change  like  those  of 
the  pigeon’s  plumage ; enamelled  amulets  graven  with  the 
heads  of  Anubis,  and  necklaces  and  bracelets  of  the  black 
beans  of  Abyssinia.”  Such  was  the  Alexandria  of  the  Greeks  ! 

It  was  after  the  season  of  Etesian  winds,  whose  beneficent 
influence  the  Egyptians  represented  by  angels ; — I recalled 
the  celebrated  Egyptian  cameo  in  Naples,  in  which  Homs, 
Alexander  and  Ptolemy  are  represented,  and  the  Etesian  winds 
Avith  their  veils.  The  exquisite  beauty  of  the  sculpture  of 
this  vase,  which  is  called  the  Tazze  Farnese^  I remembered 
with  pleasure. 

No  such  luxury  is  seen  here  now,  but  you  may  see  the  rich 
houses  of  the  modern  Greek,  or  of  the  transit  agents,  English 
merchants,  consuls  and  Levantines  ; you  may  see  the  fine 
palace  of  Mohammed  Ali ; the  palace  and  luxuriant  orange 
groves  of  Seyd  Pacha ; you  may  see  the  English  vessels  of 
war  and  merchandise,  and  American  frigates ; threatening 
Russian  consuls  and  Russian  brigs ; you  may  see  the  rich 
vegetation  along  Lake  Mareotis,  and  thriving  commerce  in 
modern  Alexandria,  re-establishing  her  magnificence,  and 
repaying  to  Egypt  the  lessons  of  science  and  philosophy,  and 
art  and  luxury  that  she  has  taught  the  world. 

The  Greeks  pride  themselves  upon  some  relics  said  to  be 
of  St.  Catharine,  who  suffered  martyrdom.  Their  church  and 
cemetery,  like  that  at  Cairo,  is  well  worth  visiting. 

I shall  bid  my  reader  farewell  with  an  incomplete  chap- 
ter, to  which  I give  him  only  the  headings.  In  the  pages  of 
guide-books  and  travellers,  he  will  find  these  places  all  de- 
scribed, and  what  interest  have  these  Avhen  Paris  invites  to  her 


VOYAGE  HOME. 


155 


repositories  of  books  and  art.  We  long  again  to  saunter  through 
tlie  Jardin  d’Hiver,  or  the  concerts  of  the  “ Conservatoire,”  or  to 
hear  the  rich  tones  of  Alboni  at  Her  Majesty’s,  in  London  ; to 
see  Marie  Taglioni,  or  Carlotta  Grisi  starring  it  in  the  “ Lost 
Pleiad,”  or  Caroline  Rosati  in  “ La  Prima  Ballerina,”  and  to 
hear  the  soft  tenore  of  Mario  or  Moriani,  or  rich  bass  of 
Lablache  and  Tamburini.  Paris,  London,  those  hbmes  of 
science,  where  you  can  travel  in  your  arm-chair,  in  your 
Assyrian  museums  and  Asiatic  societies,  in  your  saloons  of 
savans  ; — why  linger  in  dusty  old  Egypt  longer  ? 

For  the  mounds  and  records  of  our  own  land,  for  Uxmal, 
and  Chiapas,  and  Yucatan,  for  California  and  its  progressing 
civilization,  which  he  who  first  struck  his  spade  in  the  Sacra- 
mento so  little  foresaw ; for  proofs  of  Scripture  among  the 
Mexicans,  the  Peruvians,  for  the  luxuriant  scenery  of  the 
Amazon,  and  ail  that  Humboldt  has  laid  open  in  North  and 
South  America : for  America  ! let  us  leave  the  time-honored 
land  with  thankfulness  for  the  truths  that  she  has  taught  us. 
I bade  farewell  to  Egypt.  In  a few  days  we  made  the  coast  of 
Candia  or  Crete,  and  saw  the  green  mountain  where  Jupiter 
was  fabled  to  have  been  born.  One  bright  morning  we  stood 
under  clear  Mount  Etna,  a familiar  mountain  which  I had 
scanned  on  Sicilian  ground  before.  Messina  was  underneath, 
the  scene  of  Neapolitan  massacres.  A few  days  brought  us 
to  Spezzia  in  Italy.  Quarantine  over,  to  Marseilles,  Avignon, 
Lyons,  Paris,  Old  Egypt’s  relics  there,  juggling  zodiacs,  dusty 
tomes  in  her  Bibliotheque — ^London  and  her  museums  I faith- 
fully explored;  but  this  time  with  pleasure,  for  Egypt  had 
become  part  only  of  a grand  w'hole  of  faith. 

It  was  a bright  Sunday  morning  in  August,  that  I sallied 
from  my  hotel  in  Broadway,  and  crowds  of  well-dressed  men 


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and  women  thronged  the  thoroughfares  of  this  busy,  Christian 
city.  Through  the  aisles  of  Trinity  the  organ  was  pealing, 
and  voices  went  up  chanting  praises  to  Heaven.  As  I stepped 
in,  the  lesson  was  reading  in  Deuteronomy,  chapter  iv,  and 
of  parts  of  it,  the  words  seemed  meant  for  me.  “But  the 
Lord  hath  taken  you  and  brought  you  even  out  of  Egypt. 
If  from  thence  thou  shalt  seek  the  Lord  thy  God,  thou  shalt 
find  him,  -if  thou  seek  him  with  all  thy  heart  and  all  thy  soul,” 
&c.  Yes,  what  is  conviction  of  truth,  from  science,  from  his- 
tory, from  Scripture,  if  we  follow  not  in  our  lives  the  com- 
mandments of  God,  and  the  teaching  and  example  of  our 
Divine  Master  ? 

Reader,  my  wanderings  among  ruins  will  occupy  you  no 
longer,  unless  Nineveh,  Babylon,  Persepolis,  Chiapas,  Yucatan, 
or  Mexico  should  entice  me  to  their  palaces,  sepulchres  and 
mounds. 


APPENDIX. 


A. 

Astronomical  Monuments  in  Egypt. 

There  were  at  Esne,  Dendera,  Hermonthis,  tombs  of  the  kings. 
Two  were  at  Dendera,  at  the  portico  of  the  great  temple ; two  at 
Esne.  The  four  contained  the  twelve  zodiacal  constellations,  of 
which  the  signs  succeeded  according  to  modern  zodiacal  interpreta- 
tions. 

Twelve  constellations  are  placed  upon  a plane  which  stretches 
two  parallel  ways,  forming  a spiral  curve  or  ellipsis,  which  you  see 
in  the  zodiac  at  Dendera,  and  which  is  now  in  the  royal  library  at 
Paris.  Virgo  or  the  Virgin  is  the  first  in  that  of  Esne.  Leo  first 
in  that  of  Paris.  After  Desraix  brought  to  France  the  “ discovery,” 
they  found  an  astronomical  phenomenon  ; the  first  sign  of  each  zodiac 
is  that  of  the  solstice  at  the  time  when  the  two  temples  were  con- 
structed. The  temple  of  Dendera,  when  the  two  solstices  are  at  the 
sign  of  the  Lion,  according  to  this  rule,  dates  4000  years  before  our 
epoch,  and  that  of  Esne  7000  years,  having  the  sign  of  the  Virgin. 
The  zodiacs  have  in  their  order  a date  from  5000  to  10,000  years, 
and  yet  the  temples  which  contained  these,  pictures  are  nearly  the 
most  modern  in  Egypt.  This  was  the  report  to  Napoleon,  by  his 
librarian  ; Dupuis’s  opinion  is  given. 

Laborde  admitted  that  the  first  signs  were  those  of  the  zodiacs  ; 
effaced  the  Virgin  at  Esne ; placed  the  solstices  at  the  left  of  the 
Lion  ; gave  3500  years  to  Esne,  and  2000  less  to  Dendera.  La- 
borde considered  the  temples  at  Esne  and  Dendera,  as  the  memorials 


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of  the  successes  of  Alexander.  See  Fourier,  “ ressume  litteralre  de 
ses  recherches  sur  les  antiquities  astronomiques  de  I’Egypt.”  Fourier 
says  the  Egyptian  sphere  carries  us  back  to  the  twenty-fifth  century 
before  the  Christian  Era.  At  this  time,  observations  made  known 
the  first  elements  of  Astronomy.  The  epoch  of  the  restitution,*  he 
then  dilates  upon.  Flere  is  the  origin  of  their  laws  and  most  ancient 
rites. 

Recherches  sur  les  sciences  et  le  government  de  V Egypt. — Fou- 
rier, in  his  description  of  Egypt,  says  an  epoch  which  differs 
little  from  two  thousand  years  has  preceded  the  construction  of  the 
temple  of  Dendera,  and  that  is  posterior  to  that  of  Latopolis  or  Esne.. 
These  temples  belong  then  (as  the  epoch  of  the  zodiacal  institution 
2500  years,  b.  c.)  to  the  civil  history  of  Egypt.  The  monarchy  then 
existed  in  all  its  forms,  obeying  wise  and  constant  laws.  Experi- 
ence  had  fixed  the  principles  of  government  and  cultivated  arts 
from  time  immemorial.  They  had  produced  the  monuments  of  Esne, 
and  reproduced  them  in  the  temple  of  Isis,  at  Dendera.  Fourier 
concluded,  therefore,  that  at  the  twenty-fifth  century  before  the 
Christian  era,  the  Egyptian  monarchy  was  flourishing  by  know- 
ledge of  laws,  manners,  and  arts,  and  reasoning  that  the  sphere  and 
calendar  of  two  zodiacs  was  instituted,  and  therefore,  at  the  twenty- 
first  century,  b.  c.,  the  temple  of  Esne  and  its  zodiacs  was  constructed, 
that  Dendera  was  built  after  this  epoch.  Hence,  if  these  temples, 
which  were  the  most  modern  in  Egypt,  were  built  2100  b.  c.,  to  what 
a distance  back  could  the  dates  of  such  buildings  as  Karnac  and 
Thebes  be  carried.  The  French  fashionable  infidelity  was  on  the 
tiptoe  of  delight.  Biot  the  astronomer,  thought  he  could  recognize 
astronomical  features  still  more  strange  in  the  zodiac.  The  French 
philosophers  already  began  to  talk  of  10,000,  20,000  years  for 
Egypt’s  history,  and  the  materialist  to  claim  that  the  earth  always 
existed.  The  zodiac  was  brought  to  Paris.  Geologists,  deists,  atlie- 
ists,  all  were  delighted,  and  Scripture  revelation  they  supposed  had 
received  its  death  blow. 

Alas  ! “ the  tongue  of  a dog  was  made  medicinal  to  a sickly  Laza- 
rus,” and  this  lie  in  the  same  way  proved  useful  to  diseased  trutli. 
The  discovery  of  the  Rosetta  Stone  and  the  hieroglyphic  alphabet  by 


* See  Nolan’s  remarks  upon  the  restitution  in  Egyptian  Chronology. 


APPENDIX. 


159 


Champollion,  in  Sept.,  1822,  lightened  all  doubts.  The  temples  of 
Dendera  and  Esne  were  shown  to  have  been  built  in  the  Roman  age 
of  Egypt,  and  they  bear  the  names  of  the  emperors,  Hadrian  and 
Antoninus.  “ Autocrator”  had  been  cut  off  from  the  zodiacs  when 
brought  to  Paris.  On  Esne,  the  names  of  Claudius,  Titus,  Domitian, 
Trajan,  Antoninus,  and  Septimus  Severus,  were  found,  thus  proving 
that  it  was  built  in  the  first  century  before  Christ,  and  yet  Fourier 
claimed  2000  years.  At  Dendera,  even  in  the  most  ancient  Roman 
part,  you  find  the  name  of  the  last  Cleopatra,  and  a list  of  the  sover- 
eigns who  after  her  had  assembled  to.its  construction,  viz.  : Augus- 
tus, Tiberius,  Caius,  Claudius,  Nero.  Besides  the  names  which  were 
^ound  sculptured  upon  them  according  to  the  design  published  by  the 
French  Commissioner  of  Egypt,  was  an  imperial  Roman  title  of 
Claudius  and  Nero.* 

Having  obtained  a familiarity  from  Champollion’s  Grammaire 
and  Dictionaire,  and  Wilkinson,  with  the  signs  and  records  1 should 
find  there,  I saw  the  names  clearly  in  an  instant  of  these  Roman 
Emperors.  But  the  impression  I received  was  so  lively  from  the 
first  glance  at  the  temples  of  both  Dendera  and  Esne  that  they  were 
Roman,  that  I think  any  classical  schoolboy  would  recognize  the  same. 
I felt  how  paltry  were  the  efforts  of  the  French  infidels,  how  malicious 
their  attempts  by  such  scientific  jugglery  to  cast  a doubt  upon  the 
word  of  God.  True  science  and  true  philosophy  will  only  find  ir, 
the  glorious  works  of  the  Almighty,  and  true  historical  records  of  the 
race,  the  glorious  confirmation  of  his  word.  All  that  these  men  have 
done,  and  all  that  kindred  Chronologists  or  Geologists  can  do,  has 
only  brought  and  will  continue  to  bring  greater  truths  to  light.  • By 
the  persevering  efforts  of  the  French  skeptics  we  gained  the  farther 
knowledge  of  the  hieroglyphics  which  Champollion  gave  us,  and 
the  Egyptian  scholars  of  the  day,  who  detract  in  any  manner  from 
the  completeness  of  Scripture,  only  awaken  a spirit  that  leads  to 
farther  Scripture  proof  and  continued  confii'mation. 

* For  a conclusion  of  the  history  of  this  matter,  see  Champollion  Figeac* 
Fourier,  and  Napoleon,  and  Chronology. 


160 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


B. 

Christianity  and  the  Church  in  Egypt^  Ancient  and  Modern. 

Mr.  Leider,  the  English  Missionary  in  Cairo,  and  rector  of  the 
Episcopal  Church  in  the  Place  Esbekiah,  which  I frequently  attended, 
may  be  almost  said  to  be  at  the  head  of  the  Coptic  Church  in  Cairo. 
The  Coptic  patriarch  calls  him  his  father,  allows  the  young  Copts  to 
go  to  his  school,  and  sanction§  the  distribution  of  tracts  of  the  Church. 
His  scholars  in  the  nizam  dress  add  interest  to  the  service  by  read- 
ing clearly  the  English.  He  has  studied  fully  the  Coptic  language, 
and  says  that  it  bears  a relation  to  the  Sanscrit  alone  of  all  living 
languages.  As  to  affinities  with  the  Gipsey  language,  the  name  of 
Copt  is  doubtless  derived  from  yvm:  or  vulture,  the  name  of  Egypt, 
and  in  the  Copt  you  perceive  characteristics  of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 
In  the  finely  chiselled  features  of  a young  Copt  in  Cairo,  educated 
by  Mr.  Leider,  1 could  see  a resemblance  to  one  of  the  Egyptians  in 
the  tombs  of  the  kings  which  showed  all  the  marks  of  the  same  race. 
The  head  of  the  Church,  the  patriarch  of  Alexandria,  like  the  patri- 
arch  of  the  Greek  Church,  answers  to  the  Pope  of  Rome,  deriving  his 
descent  from  St.  Mark,  and  is  at  the  head  of  a church  that  has  nobly 
preserved  its  unity  for  eighteen  centuries,  which  Athanasius  has 
adorned ; (but  we  leave  this  to  Church  History  ;)  he  has  now  little  left 
but  his  title.  He  is  elected  by  the  fathers  of  St.  Anthony  or  the  con- 
vents of  the  Natron  lakes.  Next  him  is  the  Mutram  or  bishop,  who  is 
appointed  by  the  Egyptian  patriarchs ; one  is  sent  to  Abyssinia  to  pre- 
serve its  branch  there.  The  superiors  of  the  convents  are  called 
Gommos,  next  to  the  bishop  ; and  the  monks  or  priests  have  the 
title  aboona  or  fathers. 

The  Copts  have  the  character  of  being  avaricious,  sensual,  and 
hypocritical.  They  dress  in  black  turbans  and  robes  and  seem  a 
blasted  race.  Some  are  very  rich,  and  have  several  wives  and 
slaves.  One  living  next  to  our  hotel  on  the  Esbekiah,  had  a beauti- 
ful odalisque,  who  sometimes  came  to  the  window  adorned  with  gold 
and  jewels.  Some  are  officers  of  the  government.  They  frequently 
embrace  Moslemism  for  a valuable  marriage,  and  many  Moslem  cor- 
ruptions have  crept  into  their  service,  which,  like  their  ancestors’ 


APPENDIX.. 


161 


religion  (the  Egyptian),  is  administered  by  the  priests  in  a Coptic 
tongue,  not  understood  by  the  people.  In  Cairo  they  are  scribes, 
tailors,  jewellers,  and  perfumers,  and  club  in  one  profession  in  differ- 
ent places. 

Still  corrupt  as  the  Church  is,  we  cannot  but  look  upon  it  with 
interest.  In  their  fasts,  the  longest  of  which  is  Lent,  and  their 
libraries  of  the  Church  fathers,  and  in  the  stern  integrity  in  which 
for  certainly  thirteen  centuries,  and  perhaps  eighteen,  they  have 
maintained  their  religion,  we  must  look  upon  them  with  hope. 

Of  the  seven  convents  which  alone  remain  of  the  numbers  once 
in  Egypt,  the  two  of  St.  Anthony  and  St.  Paul,  seventy-six  miles 
across  the  desert  from  Benisooef,  (whose  patrons  are  St.  Anthony  of 
the  Thebaid  and  St.  Paul  or  Mar  Bolus,  by  whom  they  were  founded,) 
and  the  convents  of  the  Natron  lakes,  St.  Macarius,  and  Dayr  Sur- 
iam  (built  by  Honnes  a holy  personage),  Amba  Bishoi  and  Dayr 
Baramous,  the  latter  rather  Greek  and  the  rest  Coptic,  and  of  the 
Arabic,  Coptic,  Syriac  MSS.  which  they  possess  ; Curzon  in  his 
narrative  of  the  Levant  and  Wilkinson  in  his  Hand-Book  fully  treat. 
Their  fasts  are  long,  they  must  never  marry  unless  with  virgins,  they 
reject  images  but  regard  pictures.  There  are  other  convents  through- 
out the  Nile,  a visit  to  some  of  which  I have  described.  Here  the 
priests  marry,  but  are  much  respected.  These  are  Gebel  Coskam 
in  Upper  Egypt;  Dayr  el  Adra  or  Gebel-el-Tayr,  Bibbeh,  Boash, 
Negadeh,  Aboo  Honnes,  Amboo,  Samoud,  in  the  Fayaum  ; Girgeh, 
Abydos,  Ikhmim,  Mellawi,  Sook  Feshieh,  near  Menoof ; Amba 
Shnoodah,  near  Soohajz;  the  Red  and  White  Monastery  El 
Shenood.* 

The  White  Monastery  El  Shenood. — This  monastery  is  visited  from 
Soohajz.  It  was  founded  by  the  Empress  Helena,  is  built  in  the  style 
of  an  Egyptian  temple ; a long  oblong  building  with  a cornice.  It 
stands  alone  with  scarce  a tree  about  it  in  a wide  vast  plain.  It  was 
with  difficulty  that  I could  get  admittance.  The  monks  have  sepa- 
rate cells,  and  these  are  in  the  sides  of  the  building.  We  found  only 

a few  books  of  the  Romish  service  here.  I had  half  promised  my 
friend  of  the  propaganda  at  Ikhmim,  that  I would  visit  this  monastery. 
It  is  perhaps  the  only  building  in  the  world  at  present,  where  Christ’s 

* In  this  convent  I was  shown  the  name  of  St.  Athanasius  written  in  Coptic. 


162 


VOYAGE  UP  THE  NILE. 


religion  is  practised  in  a church  of  ancient  Egyptian  style  of  build- 
ing. It  is  sometimes  called  the  Dair  or  temple.  This,  as  well  as  the 
convents  of  the  Natron  lakes,  and  those  of  Tahta,  and  Girgeh,  and 
Thebes,  and  Negadeh,  have  been  fully  described  by  Curzon,  in  his 
monasteries  of  the  Levant.  The  monks  are  willing  to  receive  do- 
nations from  you,  and  the  manner  they  have  of  showing  this  here,  as 
well  as  in  all  those  up  the  river,  makes  you  feel  as  if  they  were  hardly 
of  your  religion. 

Beside  these  convents,  there  are  three  in  the  city  of  Cairo,  two 
at  old  Cairo,  one  of  which  has  beautiful  gardens,  where  the  patriarch 
resides,  and  a beautiful  view.  And  in  one  the  grotto  is  shown  where 
the  virgin  lived : 

“ Under  a palm-tree  by  the  green  old  Nile, 

Lulled  on  his  mother’s  breast  the  fair  child  lies. 

With  dove-like  breathings  and  a tender  smile. 

Brooding  above  the  slumber  of  his  eyes. 

While  through  the  stillness  of  the  burning  skies, 

Lo,  the  dread  work  of  Egypt’s  buried  kings. 

Temple  and  pyramid  beyond  him  rise. 

Regal  and  still  as  everlasting  things. 

Vain  pomps ! from  Him  with  that  pure  flowing  cheek. 

Soft  shadowed  by  his  mother’s  drooping  heart.” 

I would  not  put  aside  the  traditions  that  in  this  grotto  the  Saviour, 
with  his  mother  and  Joseph,  had  rested  while  in  Egypt.  That 
at  the  sycamore-tree  which  grows  near  Heliopolis  they  stopped,  or 
that  at  this  fountain  they  drank.  It  is  a pleasant  old  tradition,  cer- 
tainly as  good  and  authentic  as  many  of  those  which  the  Roman 
Catholic  priests  get  up  at  Jerusalem. 

The  Church  of  St.  George.  There  stands  a convent  where  they 
show  you  the  grotto  of  St.  Sergius,  and  where,  says  tradition,  Mary 
and  Joseph  lived  and  slept.  Near  lives  the  patriarch  of  Alexandria. 

There  is  one  convent  at  Alexandria,  which  is  called  the  convent 
of  St.  Mark.  The  Copts  here  pretend  that  they  possess  the  head  and 
body  of  St.  Mark,  but  Leo  Africanus  says,  that  the  Venetians  carried 
it  away.  It  is  filled  with  paintings  of  his  martyrdom  and  mission. 


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